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Discussion in 'Brakes, Wheels and Tires' started by VoodooBoss, Aug 27, 2016.
I've had a couple requests for a photo of the spacers mounted so here you go.
Here's one of my tires after five track days and 24 heat cycles. The tires were clearly gone the last few sessions on the last day. @Black Boss has stated he's getting 15-20 heat cycles out of a set and @moto got 19 heat cycles out of his first set. While there is plenty of rubber left on mine I think 20 heat cycles is probably max without taking a big drop off. As you can see they wore pretty evenly rotating them after every event.
Sounds basically the same as Hoosiers, or at least that's what I'm expecting to get roughly out of them. ~15 sessions.
I was hoping they'd last 5-6 track days (5 heat cycles per day) and while the rubber might they're ability to provide maximum grip is only four for me. Good thing the price dropped on these tires.
BTW with the Michelin price drop they are $550 a set less than the Trefeo R so I won't be trying the Pirelli with that large of a price difference. If they were still the same price I'd try the Trefeo R.
@VoodooBoss what's your perspective on the relative performance of fallen-off PSC2s versus a good set of MPSS? I'm not looking for every ounce of speed every session, but want more than the MPSS have to offer.
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Hmmm, that's hard to say. I think the SC2's were still faster at the end but they are significantly faster than the stock tires when fresh.
What length studs did you go with 2.9 or 3.4? Also what was the wheel bore you provided on the spacer site, I know the hub bore is 70.5, did you use that as the wheel bore as well, or provide a different measurement?
You need the longer 3.4 wheel studs and I'm not sure what the wheel bore is. If you're ordering from Motortech they know the correct sizes if you input what car you have.
VoodooBoss, have you had any issues with your 6gr wheels on the track? Are they holding up ok?
how about issues with caliper to rim clearance? does the inside of your rim get damaged?
I really like the 6GR wheels and have a set I use on the street. They are light, have a nice finish that's been durable and look good. I'm now using APEX EC-7 wheels for the track. The 6GR wheels have about 1.5mm of clearance between the caliper and barrel and the APEX EC-7's have 7mm+ of clearance.
And the APEX just plain look cooler...
My plan to install my new Apex wheel today ran into a snag with the OEM lugnuts. I really want to keep a factory look to the lugs and not use open ended ones. There was mention that the Cortex GT350R ran the stock lugnuts with the Apex wheels, so I was hoping that would work. However, the OEM lugs are about 3mm too short. When new lugnuts were required no matter the wheel choice, I decided would re-work things so when the factory wheels were mounted I would not have to run open ended lugnuts.
So this is really more about esthetics at this point.... so, no need to comment about requirements for open ended lugnuts in some cases.
A recap for the original 19x11" EC-7 front setup:
R fronts hubs (new part # HUB-395)
28mm hubcentric spacers to reach the R front wheel offset with the EC-7 wheels
I removed ~13mm from the R studs. Don't worry the threaded end of the studs are nicely dressed
EC-7 Wheel config - The shortened studs still leaves an inch of thread engagement for use with the EC-7 wheels and the 28mm spacer. In this configuration, a Gorilla "life time" 13/16" hex, 1.4" long, closed end lug nut (pn 61147) is used for the front wheels. These will also be used on the rear to replace the stockers.
Stock, non-R wheel config - A 12mm hubcentric spacer will be used on the front which will give the 10.5" wheel the same track as the 11" wheel. In this configuration, I'll use the same style but a 1.9" long, 61147XL lugnut. The stock wheel is also slightly thicker than the Apex one so with both the longer nut and thicker wheel things will work. If you have ever looked closely, the non -R front lugs are recessed quite a bit in the wheel center in comparison to the rears. The longer lugnut will not appear abnormal. The way the lugnut depth looked on the N4S R-spec wheels always bugged me as the mismatch was noticeable to my eye.
Now I have to wait on a few more parts.
On another topic, this was the first time I used both the caliper stud extensions that Tob made as well as the big ass Girodisk brake pad spreader I bought from a forum member. The stud extenders made things so easy! The disk spreader is quite a beast but took 2 seconds to spread the pads enough to slide the caliper back in place.
The front setup after shortening the studs and the rear stock setup.
I think the anthracite wheels are going to look good once I get it rolling on all four.
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In case somebody wanted to know what the half inch longer lugnuts look like on the stock front wheels:
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Hi Rick, we’re there studs on those spacers originally? I have 1” on my car and want to install 3.5 ARP studs. Just curious if all I have to do is remove the studs on the my spacers.
Hi Jeff, I'm using ARP studs and the spacers slide over them. You might be able to remove the studs and reuse the spacers.
I have a set of 35mm H&R spacers that came with studs. I just punched them out and use them like any normal spacer on my extended GT350R lugs.
Thanks. That’s what I was hoping I could do. My car is in storage until April and can’t take my spacers off to check them out.
Hi VoodooBoss. I am new to the Shelby and trying to get as much info as possible to setup my car for Spring. I ordered the 6GR wheels 19x11 and getting the 305/30-19 to run the square set. I will be ordering the 3.49" ARP studs for front and back. The question remains on the spacer. I see that your 25mm spacers does not have studs on it. can you tell me where you buy that? Is it Hub Centric? I called LMR and CJ and they told me that they don't carry slip on 25mm spacers. I am also planning to drive my car on street with he 295 up front son I guess the studs will just have to stick out 10mm more when using stock wheels, right?