Strut Tower Hole

[LuisM2]

Thanks Blacksheep! I’ll keep that in mind.

I’m unable to DM right now, probably cause I don’t have too many posts and I’m wary of putting my address out here… can you dm me?

 

[LuisM2]

I cut the hex off strut. Not like anyone uses it anyway, buzzing off strut nut with an air gun (if/when).
In my case, did not want to hack up body on GT500. If it was a GT, I would have just cut hole bigger I suppose.
Plates themselves did max out @ 3.2 degrees, with the stock height CFTP springs.

View attachment 106768

Sounds solid! Might not be my top choice since I’m pretty terrible with cutting but I’m sure if I applied myself I could handle it…

 

[LuisM2]

2 Hole saws is really all you need. First one the same size as the current hole and the second your larger hole. Use the first one to cut a timber plug that you use as the centering for the larger hole saw. Same concept as the jig just simpler. Just take it slow until the holesaw defines its own groove first. Actually just take it easy all the way, no need to butcher it.
View attachment 106770View attachment 106771View attachment 106772

How do I control the debris?
2nd pair of hands and a vacuum cleaner while cutting. They are open to the elements anyway and usually collect their own rock and rubber pile.
Can it be done without removing the Vorshlag caster/camber plates and struts?
Take the wheel off and stick a jack under the control arm, loosen the 3 strut nuts a lower to gain clearance. Can fully lower them and let them rest inside the wheel well, just watch the length on the brake lines if you do.

Thanks GAR! Appreciate the feedback.

 

[LuisM2]

The S550 tool fits the S650.

FWIW, all the S550 struts and camber plates we have tested have fit the S650.

Appreciate the clarifications! That does help a bunch

 

[steveespo]

Tool for S550 works in the S650 too. I also have both.

 

[blacksheep-1]

@LuisM2 wanting to borrow the jig next,currently @Paul McWhiskey using it but he should be about done with it.You guys can DM, just don't forget where it came from please.

 

[Paul McWhiskey]

Will be returning the tools by the end of this week.

 

[Junkyard Dog]

I cut the hex off strut. Not like anyone uses it anyway, buzzing off strut nut with an air gun (if/when).
In my case, did not want to hack up body on GT500. If it was a GT, I would have just cut hole bigger I suppose.
Plates themselves did max out @ 3.2 degrees, with the stock height CFTP springs.

View attachment 106768

I see red anodizing. Are those Vorshlag plates, or do stock GT500 camber plates look like that? (I am too poor for anybody even to let me peak into the strut hole of a GT500, so . . . ). I am mainly asking because you said the plates maxed out at - 3.2°

 

[OX1]

I see red anodizing. Are those Vorshlag plates, or do stock GT500 camber plates look like that? (I am too poor for anybody even to let me peak into the strut hole of a GT500, so . . . ). I am mainly asking because you said the plates maxed out at - 3.2°

Vorshlag. Not sure how much of what I got applies to your S650 though.

And yes, Vorshlag plates max out at that with stock CFTP springs.
Other 20+ GT500 owners have gotten more, with springs that lower
ride height below stock CFTP (S550).

These are (were) my stock plates.

 

[Junkyard Dog]

Stock plates look like my stock Dark Horse plates!

 

[OX1]

Stock plates look like my stock Dark Horse plates!

Probably are the same. Stock plates are almost impossible to move camber with weight on the susp.
Originally, I was going to reduce camber for street (hence getting Vorshlag plates), but I decided to
just run zero toe and leave the "heavy" camber. I don't do that much street driving anyway.

Getting any more camber would require strut "bolts", but strut spring seat is already right there.
Would need spacers, which I don't want any of that. So I'm "stuck" @ 3.2
Is, what it is.

 

[Junkyard Dog]

I am surprised. I thought everybody running Vorshlag was getting pretty much as much negative camber as they wanted. -3.5°, even -4°

 

[OX1]

I am surprised. I thought everybody running Vorshlag was getting pretty much as much negative camber as they wanted. -3.5°, even -4°

This guy got 3.3. Another guy in this thread claimed he could go to 4, with Steeda springs.

More Negative Camber! (Strut tower holes cut!)

Howdy everyone! I have done the unthinkable -- I have cut the strut tower holes on my GT500 :devilish: I have been wanting to get to -3.0+ degrees of negative camber for quite some time. Mustangs love a lot of negative camber up front and I have went through phases trying to get what I want. I...

www.fordgt500.com

But due to the "aero" config on the 500's, the trans cooler sits flat, so air has to travel down and back
(it also cools trans itself that way). So undertray is even lower than it looks @ splitter, as it goes down as
it goes back.

Got my car used with 2600 miles and that thing was already beat up (I bought a whole splitter/
undertray setup as a spare, figuring I might really trash it someday). I don't want to lower it anymore, as street
driving can be a PIA, with some towns near me having speed bumps all over the place.

I am considering the AJ Hartman kit, as he lists higher spring rates with stock height.
(and height is then adjustable with kit)

 

[Junkyard Dog]

So he maxed out at -2.6° with Vorshlag camber plates until he cut the strut towers using the Steeda tool, after which he set it at -3.3°. --- Cool! Useful info. Thank you.

Two quick comments, though. I did not get the sense that he was maxed out rather than that is where he set them. Looking at the pictures, it appears that he may have a little more room even with the rubber grommet installed. He did seem to think a spring change was needed to get -4°, though, so I don't know. The other guy did not yet get -4°. He already had -3.6° without cutting his strut tower and was hoping maybe he could get -4° by cutting. Maybe due to lowering springs?

I also like his rubber grommet idea for his strut tower holes.

PS - I am very jealous of your car. A GT500 with a CFTP must be a blast to drive on the track, even with no modifications.

 

[OX1]

So he maxed out at -2.6° with Vorshlag camber plates until he cut the strut towers using the Steeda tool, after which he set it at -3.3°. --- Cool! Useful info. Thank you.

Two quick comments, though. I did not get the sense that he was maxed out rather than that is where he set them. Looking at the pictures, it appears that he may have a little more room even with the rubber grommet installed. He did seem to think a spring change was needed to get -4°, though, so I don't know. The other guy did not yet get -4°. He already had -3.6° without cutting his strut tower and was hoping maybe he could get -4° by cutting. Maybe due to lowering springs?

I also like his rubber grommet idea for his strut tower holes.

PS - I am very jealous of your car. A GT500 with a CFTP must be a blast to drive on the track, even with no modifications.

I have an older hunter alignment system. These were my numbers with vorshlag, strut pushed as far as I could go and still fit
cap on strut top (didn't bother with caster, as it's a PIA with my older system).




I cut top of strut vs cutting body, then got 3.2 (not sure if I have pic of alignment screen for that).......



And yes, GT500 is way beyond my level. But you can run around @ even 80-85% and still have a really fun day with plenty of "pucker".
Looking forward to fresh rubber this year. I've only had it on track 3 times, still on original Cup2's from 21, even last year.
I'm 3rd owner and I'm not sure what those tires had been through before I got car.

 

[Junkyard Dog]

Thanks for such detailed information and adding pictures. It has been very educational for me.

 

[Gunslinger55]

Basically the limiting factor at stock height is the strut tower hole. Either make it bigger or trim the strut to fit under hole. If you lower it it magnifies the amount of negative you can get either way. This is what i’ve gathered so far. Before next track day i’m probably gonna see what max i can get for a baseline. Then go from there and decide which route to take

 

[Junkyard Dog]

Basically the limiting factor at stock height is the strut tower hole. Either make it bigger or trim the strut to fit under hole. If you lower it it magnifies the amount of negative you can get either way. This is what i’ve gathered so far. Before next track day i’m probably gonna see what max i can get for a baseline. Then go from there and decide which route to take

Did you ever cut the hole?

I was waiting to see whether you ever answered the question of what was the maximum negative camber you could get out of the stock Ford camber plate, and I had not yet seen that answer (no pressure, but if you figured that out already, please post it).

 

[Ewheels]

(I am too poor for anybody even to let me peak into the strut hole of a GT500, so . . . )

Not to derail this thread but.....keep going to the track. Everyone is always so friendly and inviting; you never know who you'll bump into.
I was at a track day a few years back and Ben Sloss (google him....) brought out his Ford GT MK2 and was giving people passenger rides.

 

[Gunslinger55]

Did you ever cut the hole?

I was waiting to see whether you ever answered the question of what was the maximum negative camber you could get out of the stock Ford camber plate, and I had not yet seen that answer (no pressure, but if you figured that out already, please post it).

Not yet. I’m gonna max it out with stock hole first. And it might get lowered so waiting to see what i want to do with front/rear springs. From all reports sounds like around -3 with stock hole but depends on the ford plate. Probably going to change those as well