The Mustang Forum for Track & Racing Enthusiasts

Taking your Mustang to an open track/HPDE event for the first time? Do you race competitively? This forum is for you! Log in to remove most ads.

  • Welcome to the Ford Mustang forum built for owners of the Mustang GT350, BOSS 302, GT500, and all other S550, S197, SN95, Fox Body and older Mustangs set up for open track days, road racing, and/or autocross. Join our forum, interact with others, share your build, and help us strengthen this community!

Suspension Banging

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Managed to get into the BMR site now i'm at home. There appear to be 2 types of bars, 3 hole and 4 hole. The major difference i can see is the angle of the ends of the bar. The standard 3 hole ends a parallel to each other side to side. The 4 holes seem to angle outwards which appears to be the cause of the clearance issue.
I kept looking at your photo thinking that bar just needs to be bent further.

View attachment 110438View attachment 110439
Yes, my bar has three adjustment holes. I am more convinced this AM that I have it in upside down. Going to pull it and turn it over to see if that creates the clearance that I need.
 
Have a read of this, i think it is up the right way. I also think the redesigned bar ends should be more vertical. You aren't the only one who has had issues with these bars.
 
So you don’t think that there is no gain by flipping it? I am at that point of removing the mounts and end links. I really don’t want to waste my time.

Thinking that I might try to confirm with BMR before I go any further. I sure would like to see more daylight between the end link and the strut.
 
Welp! Just called BMR and the instructions were to put aftermarket end links on the inside of the bar like I had it previously. Sooo…I am still in search of my noise maker.
 
Honestly i believe they stuffed the design when they changed it as mentioned in the M6G link. The previous ends were more vertical such that the drop link joints sat in the middle of their range and the ends were bent further inwards away from the bottom of the strut.
This is a picture i found of the earlier version.
bmr-elk012_5017.jpg
Which is way better than what you are dealing with.
Flipping the bar i believe will just change the angle from one direction to another without moving the actual location. Where i initially said move the link doesn't work with these bars due to the angle on the end. Swapping back to the inside and putting a spacer may give you more clearance without cutting the thread for the time being. There was a discussion about all the different drop links to find one that fits on 6G. I think the links are binding which causes the clunk. I found another 6G page that the guy had snapped the links like yours. Call BMR and see if they are willing to swap it for the earlier version if they have one as i believe it isn't fit for purpose from what i see. Send them some clear photos showing the angles of the drop link ends and see if the believe that is appropriate. I haven't found a clear photo from BMR showing it installed and the drop links visible.
1780667208976.png
 
OK, gonna swap the end links again and install the new brake line on the left front. Put the whole car up in the air again and flush the brakes with the brake fluid that I got from Summit Racing. Next day delivery without extra charges. Thanks! Using Red Line RL 600 because that is what I used last time I flushed the system.

While I have it up in the air I will do a serious inspection on the rear. Don’t think. That I have any issues, but will inspect none the less.

IMG_0106.jpeg

IMG_0112.jpeg

IMG_0111.jpeg
 
Top