- Thread starter
- #21
Yes, my bar has three adjustment holes. I am more convinced this AM that I have it in upside down. Going to pull it and turn it over to see if that creates the clearance that I need.
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Suspension Banging
- Thread starterPaul McWhiskey
- Start date
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Have a read of this, i think it is up the right way. I also think the redesigned bar ends should be more vertical. You aren't the only one who has had issues with these bars.
www.mustang6g.com
Front Swaybar Orientation Concern BMR SB044
Hey guys, I've recently installed BMR Front sway bar SB044 on my '21 mustang gt pp. I'm posting because I'm genuinely confused as to how this sway bar should be positioned. Everywhere I see online, all sway bars are installed with their ends pointing up. However, looking at the instructions for...
www.mustang6g.com- Thread starter
- #23
So you don’t think that there is no gain by flipping it? I am at that point of removing the mounts and end links. I really don’t want to waste my time.
Thinking that I might try to confirm with BMR before I go any further. I sure would like to see more daylight between the end link and the strut.
Thinking that I might try to confirm with BMR before I go any further. I sure would like to see more daylight between the end link and the strut.
- Thread starter
- #24
Welp! Just called BMR and the instructions were to put aftermarket end links on the inside of the bar like I had it previously. Sooo…I am still in search of my noise maker.
Honestly i believe they stuffed the design when they changed it as mentioned in the M6G link. The previous ends were more vertical such that the drop link joints sat in the middle of their range and the ends were bent further inwards away from the bottom of the strut.
This is a picture i found of the earlier version.
Which is way better than what you are dealing with.
Flipping the bar i believe will just change the angle from one direction to another without moving the actual location. Where i initially said move the link doesn't work with these bars due to the angle on the end. Swapping back to the inside and putting a spacer may give you more clearance without cutting the thread for the time being. There was a discussion about all the different drop links to find one that fits on 6G. I think the links are binding which causes the clunk. I found another 6G page that the guy had snapped the links like yours. Call BMR and see if they are willing to swap it for the earlier version if they have one as i believe it isn't fit for purpose from what i see. Send them some clear photos showing the angles of the drop link ends and see if the believe that is appropriate. I haven't found a clear photo from BMR showing it installed and the drop links visible.
This is a picture i found of the earlier version.
Which is way better than what you are dealing with.
Flipping the bar i believe will just change the angle from one direction to another without moving the actual location. Where i initially said move the link doesn't work with these bars due to the angle on the end. Swapping back to the inside and putting a spacer may give you more clearance without cutting the thread for the time being. There was a discussion about all the different drop links to find one that fits on 6G. I think the links are binding which causes the clunk. I found another 6G page that the guy had snapped the links like yours. Call BMR and see if they are willing to swap it for the earlier version if they have one as i believe it isn't fit for purpose from what i see. Send them some clear photos showing the angles of the drop link ends and see if the believe that is appropriate. I haven't found a clear photo from BMR showing it installed and the drop links visible.
S550 - Upside Down and on the Wrong Side Build Thread
This is the Build Thread for Upside Down and on the Wrong Side. Reply below.
trackmustangsonline.com- Thread starter
- #27
OK, gonna swap the end links again and install the new brake line on the left front. Put the whole car up in the air again and flush the brakes with the brake fluid that I got from Summit Racing. Next day delivery without extra charges. Thanks! Using Red Line RL 600 because that is what I used last time I flushed the system.
While I have it up in the air I will do a serious inspection on the rear. Don’t think. That I have any issues, but will inspect none the less.
While I have it up in the air I will do a serious inspection on the rear. Don’t think. That I have any issues, but will inspect none the less.
Your rear bar has way more clearance then mine did even after I spaced mine rearward. Drop link angle also is way better.
Just a future note, if you add significant rear camber and an 11 rear wheel you may have to grind the aluminium rear top shock mount. I made it more curved so the wheel doesn't jam against the lip.
Just a future note, if you add significant rear camber and an 11 rear wheel you may have to grind the aluminium rear top shock mount. I made it more curved so the wheel doesn't jam against the lip.
Make sure to install some form of Diff bushing inserts before this lovely bushings get torn especially driver side rear one.
Dave_W
Cones - not just for ice cream
Well, that's obviously where the noise is coming from. You've got a whole bunch of flexy-bendy bits holding the wheels together, instead of one solid hunk of metal like God intended.
- Thread starter
- #31
Been keeping a close eye on those. Car has 74k on it and no issue yet. Did install the big bolt kit though many miles and years ago. But, you are right. Probably a good idea.
- Thread starter
- #32
I believe that I have found the cause of my noise. Will be contacting BMR today to seek their guidance. Have any of you ever experienced this?
WOW, good find. Will be interesting to see what is suggested. All i can envision is packing that coil to prevent compression.
- Thread starter
- #35
Second coil on the top of the spring is slamming the first coil.
- Thread starter
- #36
Called and spoke to BMR. They asked for emailed photos so I did that. Was told that I will get an email response tomorrow.
They'll probably tell you to put some Isolators on there like these (listed for s197s):
www.steeda.com
eibach.com
These Isolators often come pre-installed on aftermarket progressive lowering springs because the coils are so close together
Ford Mustang Front Rubber Coil Spring Isolator (2005-2014)
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Eibach Coil Sleeve - Dia. 5.00 in | Len: in | Rate: lbs/in
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These Isolators often come pre-installed on aftermarket progressive lowering springs because the coils are so close together
- Thread starter
- #38
So far there has been no mention of installing these isolators. I will reserve comment as we are working to resolve. Once we get there I will post how things go. I don’t want to poison the waters so to speak.
- Thread starter
- #39
Sent along some coil binding pics to BMR this morning. See attached.
So far no communication from them.
Would appreciate any and all comments or observations here.
So far no communication from them.
Would appreciate any and all comments or observations here.
In the interest of not jumping to any conclusions, does this only occur on one side?
If so, is that shock absorber functioning properly?
Any spring can reach coil bind with enough force. This being a stock style variable diameter and relatively soft spring means it will take less force. If the shock absorber isn't slowing the compression down sufficiently there may be enough force applied quickly enough to have the closer wound coils hit.
I do find it strange that a setup made it all the way into production and have this issue so looking for possible other factors.
Fingers crossed the supplier has a satisfactory answer one way or another.
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