captdistraction
GrumpyRacer
I was going through troubleshooting the pedal setup on my car (the early S197/Kohr hydraulics make a real long and somewhat overboosted pedal throw with the S550 calipers)
That all said, I thought Id change my pads to new ones to see if that helped pull the brake engagement up. What I found was that both sides had taper. One side in the range of what I'd call mostly normal (less than 1mm from front to rear). However the passenger caliper was 2mm front to rear (and rear to front on the opposing pad).
I ran the new pads and all is well there, however I'm curious what I can do to mitigate future tapering of the pads:
I did remove some shims I was using to center the caliper, but have some other suggestions I need to follow up on:
-My two piece rotors aren't configured to be fully floating. I can change some of the hardware to make them fully floating (which should also help with any perceived knockback)
-slightly sand/grind down the sides of the pads to open up the tolerance in the caliper and prevent binding
-tear down the caliper and inspect the pistons
The seals in the calipers seem to be good, and the dust boots aren't melted. Temperatures haven't been extreme on the caliper bodies and outside the hydraulic setup not resulting in ideal pedal throws, I've not had other issues with the setup.
That all said, I thought Id change my pads to new ones to see if that helped pull the brake engagement up. What I found was that both sides had taper. One side in the range of what I'd call mostly normal (less than 1mm from front to rear). However the passenger caliper was 2mm front to rear (and rear to front on the opposing pad).
I ran the new pads and all is well there, however I'm curious what I can do to mitigate future tapering of the pads:
I did remove some shims I was using to center the caliper, but have some other suggestions I need to follow up on:
-My two piece rotors aren't configured to be fully floating. I can change some of the hardware to make them fully floating (which should also help with any perceived knockback)
-slightly sand/grind down the sides of the pads to open up the tolerance in the caliper and prevent binding
-tear down the caliper and inspect the pistons
The seals in the calipers seem to be good, and the dust boots aren't melted. Temperatures haven't been extreme on the caliper bodies and outside the hydraulic setup not resulting in ideal pedal throws, I've not had other issues with the setup.