Thinking of a 2018+ mustang for mostly track duty, occasional weekend car, looking for info

[ACGTS40]

so as the title says, i am looking for some help with a 18plus stang for the track, i am thinking standard GT 5.0 but not sure on what packages. When i say track i will also use it sometimes on the weekend, may an autox here and there
and may be a few times at the drag strip. Car would be trailered to the track.

A little bit about me, i have race karts for a while, race SCCA Spec Racer ford for a while, and have completed track days on a motorcycle and car. Also love to sim race as well.
I have another mid engine car i track once in awhile but really want some american muscle to enjoy. Just curious if anyone has come from a german car or mid engine car to the stang
your thoughts on differences or pros and cons.

My initial thinking is a 2018plus car, is there any year that is better than others? Any years that have any issues i need to think about since this would be mainly a track/weekend car?
I plan on putting a bar in it so i can run proper seats w either 4 or 5 racing belts. Are any of the seats that come in packages worth it or just buy aftermarket?

Automatic/Stick: the automatics seem to be very stout but are most running auto for straight line fun or do some run them on the road course? Are they reliable on the road course? I do
enjoy left foot braking as well. W the stick shift, is it auto rev match or do you have to heal/toe?

Any package i should look for? I was thinking of adding some steeda goodies but wasnt sure if it needed shocks as well or if some of the packages with magnetic ride
are better than aftermarket.

Tires/Brakes: how long does a good pair of tires last, brake pads as well? Do you recommend changing rims?

Im not really concerned with HP, would probably tune it and cold air intake, exhaust. But otherwise just concentrating on putting down laps.

Anything else that is recommended, concern, something to think about i am all ears.

Thanks in advance for the help

AC

 

[Mad Hatter]

I don't have a 2018 but the shop I use has a ton of them. The automatic is the drag racers choice buy a mile. But the road racers can't get more then a few laps without the auto overheating. You can add all kinds of fixes for that or just get a Mach 1 which has much better tranny cooling.

You can take just about any S197 or newer mustang a long way up the racing food chain with enough effort and money. I race with prepped Cayman GT4's and they really are not fond of my Boss. Plenty of Drivers here at TMO in S197 or S550 that can show you what the potential of these cars is.

Not a huge fan of steeda as its usually stuff that you kind find cheaper else where.. Going with Ford racing gear is a solid choice. I drove a S550 with the track kit from Ford racing and it was a easy car to drive fast.

Make sure your car has the 15" brembos and decent tires and rims... 295 would be a minimum, but you can have fun with anything thats wider then stock. Always nice to have a set APEX 19x11 or 18x11 wheels. Wheels and tires are well worth it!!

I went from a manual E39 bmw 540 to a Boss.... They are not comparable. One is at home at the track... the other just likes to visit. My track buddy in a V10 M5 could not keep up to the Boss when it was stock. A car like a Mach1 would eat it for lunch.

Hope you have fun!

 

[ACGTS40]

I don't have a 2018 but the shop I use has a ton of them. The automatic is the drag racers choice buy a mile. But the road racers can't get more then a few laps without the auto overheating. You can add all kinds of fixes for that or just get a Mach 1 which has much better tranny cooling.

You can take just about any S197 or newer mustang a long way up the racing food chain with enough effort and money. I race with prepped Cayman GT4's and they really are not fond of my Boss. Plenty of Drivers here at TMO in S197 or S550 that can show you what the potential of these cars is.

Not a huge fan of steeda as its usually stuff that you kind find cheaper else where.. Going with Ford racing gear is a solid choice. I drove a S550 with the track kit from Ford racing and it was a easy car to drive fast.

Make sure your car has the 15" brembos and decent tires and rims... 295 would be a minimum, but you can have fun with anything thats wider then stock. Always nice to have a set APEX 19x11 or 18x11 wheels. Wheels and tires are well worth it!!

I went from a manual E39 bmw 540 to a Boss.... They are not comparable. One is at home at the track... the other just likes to visit. My track buddy in a V10 M5 could not keep up to the Boss when it was stock. A car like a Mach1 would eat it for lunch.

Hope you have fun!

Thank you for the info
understand about steeda and that is why i came here, looking for advice from people have been down this path before.

 

[TWF]

Not 18+ but I have 13 boss ready for track if interested.

 

[o-man]

I run a 2019 Bullitt at HPDE's. My set up is a lot milder than most on here. Has nice Recaro seat option, but for what they cost new , $1600 option, it may be worthwhile to look into aftermarket seats with harnesses. My car also has the Magneride shock/strut option. I like it, but some may think a conventional coil over may be the way to go. Although AJ Hartmann makes a "coil over" kit for it https://ajhartmanaero.com/mustang/s550-15-17/
I would look for a performance pkg car. Comes with the 6 piston front Brembos and the 3.73 rear end. For some reason the S550 likes rear wheel bearings. I've had two replaced under warranty. You can run either 18 or 19X11" wheels with 315-30/18 or 305-30/19. Wheels of choice on this forum are made by Apex, a site sponsor. If you go with 11" wide wheels you will need to run extended front studs and 25mm spacers, available from OPMustangs, also a site sponsor. Will need to run more than stock negative camber for these to fit. I'm running Steeda camber plates but appears the consensus is the Vorshlag unit https://vorshlag-store.com/collecti...5-up-mustang-camber-caster-plates-oem-perches
For brakes I run G-Loc R18 front and now stock performance pkg pads rear with Motul 600 brake fluid. Also running Vorshlag front brake deflectors https://vorshlag-store.com/collecti...cts/vorshlag-s550-brake-cooling-deflector-kit

I'm sure other S550 drivers on the site will chime in, but please feel free to ask more questions

 

[flyhalf]

My 2 cents.
No matter what you pick, 2018+ were not meant to be on track .
Is a sad and ugly truth.
So it requires a lot of adjustments and mods.
Bigger tires and lighter wheels squared all around
Better suspensions
Better cooling.

Cooling : ENGINE OIL first. Eventually bigger radiator and a diff cooler.
This just to start.
It is not a plug and play car.
However
The good news is that the path to make it fun and competitive is known in this community

Some personal advice.
Get a pp1. Especially for the better brakes.
EDIT. And torsen differential
If you plan coilovers. Avoid magnaride.
Auto or manual?
I have auto. And my car is fast.
But would i suggest it? Probably no IF patience and mods are not in the plans.
After 5 years the situation is better undercontrol. I invented a thermal by pass. I know what huge cooler is required. And i keep testing better clutches and internal components.
For time trials? Yes get a 10speed and paddle shift.. For w2w? I still didn't figure out if will hold and what is needed to hold 30 40mins.
For hpde...well depends. How fast u are and how hot is it.

Manual is pretty straightforward.
Later model better than 2018 (fork was an issue but doesn't seem like anymore)

Max power with some mods (tune e85 air intake and catback or headers is ~480whp)

Heavy car. U looking 3700 -3900 lbs.
U can bring it to 3400 3500 with lots of work.

Hope this could help and feel free to ask anything.
Alessandro

 

[blacksheep-1]

If I were you, I'd look more towards the stick axle cars, those cars were the most developed live axle cars that ever existed and generally have no issue handling the later models. The Boss 302 platform is still competitive in all the SCCA, NASA and WRL classes it runs in. They were legislated out of competition in 2017 (I know, I crewed on the last pro level race win for a Boss 302). They are stupid simple and have less moving parts. Sure your import friend will rag on you about the stick axle.. until you pass them. They are also relitvely inexpensive to buy and track. Find a Ford Performance suspension package, cut out the shock towers for mor ecamber, add 10 inch wheels, if it doesn't have the 14inch gt500 brakes, get them, throw some Ford Performance lower trailing arms on (leave the stock upper if it's in good shape) and drive it. The MT82 might give you a problem soone rrather than later but there is afix for that as well.
Check out @flyhalf post above, what he says is golden, he is a former NASA national Champion in that very car. So you have a bunch of choices.

 

[ACGTS40]

Thanks for all the replies and a wealth of information. Appreciate all of it. Just to be clear I plan on tracking the car and not w2w racing it. Would still like to use it on the street once in a while as well and will be trailered to the track. How fast I will be, time will tell but I’m hoping w my experience that I will be moving at a good pace.

@flyhalf how much needs to go into the transmission if I did go auto. I’m
Not against stick but heard great things about the auto. what do you recommend for oil cooler? Any other places besides here to learn about the car.

@blacksheep-1 thank you as well. I love the new body style, not against the older models and may take a look.

overall if you guys had to do it again would you still go down the mustang path?

thanks again

 

[Mad Hatter]

@flyhalf is the the resident expert on fast Automatic stangs. More likely, the only 10spd track (road) expert I have heard of with the track times to prove it!! If I had to do it all again, would do as @blacksheep-1 says and go the S197 route as its cheaper simpler and lighter. But would go for a full cortex suspension right away.

Flyhalf, at the shop I use, they must have half a dozen 2018 plus cars at 500rwhp, running E85, headers and CAI. I think its the same number that AED expects to get on them.

 

[flyhalf]

@flyhalf is the the resident expert on fast Automatic stangs. More likely, the only 10spd track (road) expert I have heard of with the track times to prove it!! If I had to do it all again, would do as @blacksheep-1 says and go the S197 route as its cheaper simpler and lighter. But would go for a full cortex suspension right away.

Flyhalf, at the shop I use, they must have half a dozen 2018 plus cars at 500rwhp, running E85, headers and CAI. I think its the same number that AED expects to get on them.

500whp it all.depends on the type of smoothing and Type of graph u select with dynojet.
Im on SAE (not std) smoothing 5. With std im at 500 too.
If you can please share their graph now im curious.
@ACGTS40 with manual u can go big with the oil cooler (948 or 960 setrab)
With manual you need a smaller one cause u need to fit 2 coolers (the trans one is big too)
I use 660.setrab for oil
650 for trans
And by the way
The most important thing to do is BOXING and ducting coolers and radiator. Pain i. The butt but gives you the best cooling results. And maybe pairing with some big hood vents.
Remember this if you go with auto. never ever pass 230f temps.
The first upgrade i would do for the trans is better clutches. Raybestos or mcleod ir suncoast.
Then would consider my bypass.
Then cooler
Then small extra kits.

Ps. 2019 + have rev match feature for manual. Super helpful and faster on track
2018 does not

 

[302BOB]

Don't forget, boys.......A good driver is part of the equation.A well seasoned pilot at the helm of a well modded racer equels a winning combination every time..........Fabman comes to mind for some reason..........................

 

[ACGTS40]

Interesting, may have to look at 2019 plus then and the stick. I’m not going to rule out the older Stang’s just yet. The reason I came to this forum is because on FB everyone makes it look simple to get on track lol. Yeah I could run a stock car on track but for how long lol. Guess it’s no cheaper running American vs German. Thanks again for all the info.
If there are any other groups or places to learn more about the cars let me know.

 

[Mad Hatter]

The big difference in $$$ is when you have to do a major repair. A forged crank for the Coyote is about 400 bucks, vs $3000 for a Bimmer v8 crank, Same goes for pistons. A track buddy had to supercharge his E92 M3 to compete with me. Now the engine blew up and the repair bill is pretty darn big!!

@flyhalf, asking for Dyno sheets. Mine is pretty much the same as @Fabman

 

[ACGTS40]

The big difference in $$$ is when you have to do a major repair. A forged crank for the Coyote is about 400 bucks, vs $3000 for a Bimmer v8 crank, Same goes for pistons. A track buddy had to supercharge his E92 M3 to compete with me. Now the engine blew up and the repair bill is pretty darn big!!

@flyhalf, asking for Dyno sheets. Mine is pretty much the same as @Fabman

Yes totally agree. I still love the stang and will def be going this route !

 

[Mad Hatter]

@flyhalf, here goes a Dyno sheet they did last week. Not sure about what smoothing they used, am asking.

Its from a Mach 1 automatic. E85, CAI LTH and a tune

 

[Mad Hatter]

If there are any other groups or places to learn more about the cars let me know.

To be honest I was in several other mustang forums but this is the most track oriented by far and the least conflictive a well....

 

[67GTA]

Interesting, may have to look at 2019 plus then and the stick. I’m not going to rule out the older Stang’s just yet. The reason I came to this forum is because on FB everyone makes it look simple to get on track lol. Yeah I could run a stock car on track but for how long lol. Guess it’s no cheaper running American vs German. Thanks again for all the info.
If there are any other groups or places to learn more about the cars let me know.

If it were me, the Mach 1 would be the way to go, for these reasons;

-Tremec transmission w/factory rev match
-higher HP 5.0 (better reliability vs Voodoo)
-GT350 front suspension geometry
-oil/trans/diff cooler from factory
-stock magneride is really very impressive on track

New Dark Horse would be a consideration too, but still too early.

 

[flyhalf]

If it were me, the Mach 1 would be the way to go, for these reasons;

-Tremec transmission w/factory rev match
-higher HP 5.0 (better reliability vs Voodoo)
-GT350 front suspension geometry
-oil/trans/diff cooler from factory
-stock magneride is really very impressive on track

New Dark Horse would be a consideration too, but still too early.

I agreed with you Tom.

 

[KazarS197]

You are already doing your due diligence. Once you decide make a list of needs to have a decent, safe, track worthy HPDE car - brakes, tires, maybe wheels depending and a would like to have list - upgraded suspension, maybe bigger wheels and rubber, harnesses - could actually go in both places, engine upgrades, exhaust..... Keep an eye on the classifieds here. There have been some really well sorted , well taken care of cars come and go. You have been at the track and might understand that you never get back what you put in upgrades. Finding something that already has a start or ready for the track could save you time and cash. If you find a car here dig into the member's car build profile to really check out everything. The 19+ do have rev match but there are aftermarket modules too. That could open your year range. Good luck and welcome to TMO!

 

[Mad Hatter]

@flyhalf, here goes a Dyno sheet they did last week. Not sure about what smoothing they used, am asking.

Its from a Mach 1 automatic. E85, CAI LTH and a tune

View attachment 88624

that was with SAE J1349