For the past couple years, I have swapped my front rotors prior to HPDE days, going back to the stock set. But my track setup is now showing some signs of warping, so I'm looking at changing up my strategy. My main goal is cut down on my pre/post-track prep time and leave the rotors on full time and just swap pads, even if it costs more.
I have narrowed down a couple options, but wanted to get some feedback:
1) Go with StopTech, cryo treated, cross-drilled rotors full-time (currently running them on the street). I know many track enthusiasts stay away from cross-drilled because of cracking, but others say the quality of the brand really matters more. Also, I don't know if cryo treatment is more of a marketing gimmick or something that is worth the extra cost.
2) Move to a 2-piece, slotted rotor. Looking at Roush, Full Tilt Boggie or DBA two-piece setup to drop some rotating mass. This is my most expensive option. Is a well made, pricey set of rotors worth it? Will it help extend the life of the rotor and prevent warping better than OE?
3) Plan to buy new OE rotors and simply throw them out every season or at signs of warping. Do I just treat the rotors like a 'toss-away' item and save my cash or other stuff? I really like the cross-drilled look for the street, but I'm willing to give that up for saving time with the pre/post HDPE swap. I know I can get them 'turned', but for the cost and time, it's almost easier to get new ones with this option.
THX!
I have narrowed down a couple options, but wanted to get some feedback:
1) Go with StopTech, cryo treated, cross-drilled rotors full-time (currently running them on the street). I know many track enthusiasts stay away from cross-drilled because of cracking, but others say the quality of the brand really matters more. Also, I don't know if cryo treatment is more of a marketing gimmick or something that is worth the extra cost.
2) Move to a 2-piece, slotted rotor. Looking at Roush, Full Tilt Boggie or DBA two-piece setup to drop some rotating mass. This is my most expensive option. Is a well made, pricey set of rotors worth it? Will it help extend the life of the rotor and prevent warping better than OE?
3) Plan to buy new OE rotors and simply throw them out every season or at signs of warping. Do I just treat the rotors like a 'toss-away' item and save my cash or other stuff? I really like the cross-drilled look for the street, but I'm willing to give that up for saving time with the pre/post HDPE swap. I know I can get them 'turned', but for the cost and time, it's almost easier to get new ones with this option.
THX!