Tracking the Boss

[VoodooBoss]

I use my Aeroforce gauge to pull and clear the codes.

Is this explained in the Aeroforce manual?

 

[cloud9]

I use my Aeroforce gauge to pull and clear the codes.

Is this explained in the Aeroforce manual?

I'm not sure, but it's pretty straightforward. Push both buttons to bring up the menu. Then scroll down (left button?) until you get to "GET DTCs", then hit the right button to select. It will either display the resident codes or say "No faults". When you get back to the menu you can then scroll down to "CLEAR DTCs" and hit the right button to select and clear them.

 

[2012YellowBoss]

So basically they just cleared all the codes using a scan tool? Or was it something different? Can a battery pull clear them?

Clearing the codes does not help, it will happen over and over again. There were no codes present when I had TK installed but maybe there was something stored that was not showing up on a normal scan. At least that is what I have come to understand. Once you have TK installed you should not get the random mis-fire code but if it does happens and the crank re-learn is performed it solves the problem. Again I am not best person to explain this but having the reset done solves the problem and a simple scan tool will not, that I know first hand.

 

[PeteInCT]

A scan followed by a clear of DTC's is not the same as the re-learn. The re-learn is a reprogram step, not so much different than having TK installed (although I assume not as extensive a program change). The Aeroforce gauge (or any normal scan tool) cannot reprogram the PCM. In the Audi/VW world, the VAGCOM software can change some basic ECU settings, but not the ones most guys want to change to tune the engine.

Does anyone know if later installs of TK took the re-learn into acount automatically, is is every 2012 with TK suscepable to this same issue ?

 

[boss1]

Ok well dropped the car off this am.... All I know is that I cant wait to get back to the track..... Next event: Chin Motorsports VIR March 3-4. Ordering the trans scoop and brake duct kit today. Any consenses on the front grill solution short of $375 for the S grille? Thanks.

 

[VoodooBoss]

Ok well dropped the car off this am.... All I know is that I cant wait to get back to the track..... Next event: Chin Motorsports VIR March 3-4. Ordering the trans scoop and brake duct kit today. Any consenses on the front grill solution short of $375 for the S grille? Thanks.

I received my Cobra Jet grille this past week but I'm not ready to recommend it yet. I'm waiting to hear back from FR on an issue I have with it. I'll post more later in the grille thread.

 

[adam81]

Ok well dropped the car off this am.... All I know is that I cant wait to get back to the track..... Next event: Chin Motorsports VIR March 3-4. Ordering the trans scoop and brake duct kit today. Any consenses on the front grill solution short of $375 for the S grille? Thanks.

Go to latemodelrestoration.com and get the S grille for $309....

Remove the grille for track days, takes about 10 minutes. There is a write up somewhere.

Great call on the brake ducts and trans scoop. The trans scoop is good for like 20 deg or so! Make sure you remove the rear dust shields and little mud guard thing if the front rear wheel well.

By the way do you know a guy with the last name Culpepper?

 

[cloud9]

Ok well dropped the car off this am.... All I know is that I cant wait to get back to the track..... Next event: Chin Motorsports VIR March 3-4. Ordering the trans scoop and brake duct kit today. Any consenses on the front grill solution short of $375 for the S grille? Thanks.

You can just pull it on warm track days if you're starting to run hot. It takes an 8mm socket, a flat screwdriver to pop the 8 push pins and release the side tabs on the grille and about 10 minutes time. CHT/ECT will drop 20-30 degrees just like that.

 

[boss1]

That sounds great but what about radiator damage from flying rubber ect? Someone needs to make a screen kit for these....Please.....

 

[cloud9]

That sounds great but what about radiator damage from flying rubber ect? Someone needs to make a screen kit for these....Please.....

Here's a pic of JScheier's grille he made out of a GT grille surround and chicken wire. It did the trick in lowering his coolant temps.



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

 

[boss1]

That should work well.

 

[boss1]

Ok well dropped the car off this am.... All I know is that I cant wait to get back to the track..... Next event: Chin Motorsports VIR March 3-4. Ordering the trans scoop and brake duct kit today. Any consenses on the front grill solution short of $375 for the S grille? Thanks.

Go to latemodelrestoration.com and get the S grille for $309....

Remove the grille for track days, takes about 10 minutes. There is a write up somewhere.

Great call on the brake ducts and trans scoop. The trans scoop is good for like 20 deg or so! Make sure you remove the rear dust shields and little mud guard thing if the front rear wheel well.

By the way do you know a guy with the last name Culpepper?

Yes Dave is a very good friend of mine. I am probably the one that got him started on the 302S.

 

[boss1]

Ok so I have the front LS splitter now for my car. What is the best wing to run? I assume the LS since it has been tested over and over but thought I would ask before I purchase. I do not plan on running the tiger hood yet. That will be a next year item if I decide to do it.

Also are there any options for tow hooks if I don't want to drill the bumpers?

How about tie down hooks underneath? I have not had mine up on lift to check it out yet. Right now I am looping through the wheels to trailer with straps but I prefer latching underneath.

Lastly, is anyone running a rear axle resovior as opposed to the turkey baster ford fix?

Thanks, T.Roy

 

[Jza1736]

Here's another resovoir
http://shop.bobsautosports.com/Mustang-axle-reservoir-KR-style-axle-reservoir.htm

 

[boss1]

Have you installed one yet?

 

[Jza1736]

No, I have a few things ahead of that, like my cool-tech roll bar. Which is on its way!

 

[cloud9]

Ok so I have the front LS splitter now for my car. What is the best wing to run? I assume the LS since it has been tested over and over but thought I would ask before I purchase. I do not plan on running the tiger hood yet. That will be a next year item if I decide to do it.

Also are there any options for tow hooks if I don't want to drill the bumpers?

How about tie down hooks underneath? I have not had mine up on lift to check it out yet. Right now I am looping through the wheels to trailer with straps but I prefer latching underneath.

Lastly, is anyone running a rear axle resovior as opposed to the turkey baster ford fix?

Thanks, T.Roy

I would say the LS wing since they were designed to work together as a package.

I tied down over the rear axle and front LCAs and crossed the straps all last season on my open trailer. I couldn't find any hooks that would work, but supposedly there's a place for t-hooks that they use on transports. This year I've got an enclosed and will be going through the wheels.

 

[boss1]

Yes through the wheels works fine. I always feel like I am messing with the alignment with the front straps crossed....

 

[cloud9]

Yes through the wheels works fine. I always feel like I am messing with the alignment with the front straps crossed....

Are you going straight backward and forward with the through the wheels method? I was planning on tying it down that way and it's how Mac's showed them on their website too. I got their Pro Pack through the wheel kit for my new trailer. I just hope the car won't bounce side to side at all but since it's ratcheted down firmly I guess it shouldn't.

 

[boss1]

Yes through the wheels works fine. I always feel like I am messing with the alignment with the front straps crossed....

Are you going straight backward and forward with the through the wheels method? I was planning on tying it down that way and it's how Mac's showed them on their website too. I got their Pro Pack through the wheel kit for my new trailer. I just hope the car won't bounce side to side at all but since it's ratcheted down firmly I guess it shouldn't.

I have always crossed the fronts and the backs....... Maybe Ive been doing it wrong but my car never moves....