S197 Tri-Bar's Ride Build Thread Profile - S197 Mustangs

[Bill Pemberton]

Fun ride, no drama, just Mr. Smooth out for a Sunday drive. I do miss that sound, even though I am likely half deaf because of it from my Boss S!

 

[Tri-bar]

Since I had a switch for a defog for the windshield on the dash panel, I put one in.

 

[Tri-bar]

Sonoma Update 8-26/27-23
Good weekend at Sonoma. Got a PBT of 1:49.7 with street tires on the second day, first session of the Shelby Mini Nats.
The first day I was using the Kenny Brown AGS 4.5 system on the car. 650lbs front and rear springs Strano front sway bar. The girl was fast but never made it past 1:50.7 after 5 sessions
Playing with shock setting 10/6 front 8/4 rear. Was putting down good power but a little bouncy through turns 1&2 with just a slight push in the corners had to watch my entrance speed. changed the rears to 10/6 and went into oversteer.
Nothing changed with turns 1&2. lap times about the same. So I changed it back to 8/4. End of the day it was noticed that my rear axle seals on the right side of the car was leaking. Dripping was more like it.
So the scramble for parts began. Luckily one for the shops behind turn 10 had a seals and bearing kit. Thank you Trent! So with seals in hand the thrashing began! Had to pull off the KB AGS 4.5 K-link.
Anyone who has this, knows it has a little bit of heft to it and blocks the Diff cover. Got it off, CHECK ! Most know what fallows, if not, cover comes off, mess is made, no matter how hard you try, you spill gear oil.
undo the pin that holds the center spacer on the Torsen, pull out C-clips, pull the axels, replace seals, then the reverse to put it all back together stared a 6:30pm was done and in bed at Midnight. Also in the time I changed the rear setup
to the KB AGS 4.0 setup. The rear springs are now 250lbs with a 18mm sway bar. the Roll center relocation kit ie.. dropped panhard bar. rear shock setting 10/6 on all 4 corners now. To set right height and do gear oil in the morning. went to bed after a nice hot shower.
Now it's the 27th My buddy SMGDHG from TMO group, he he was running the 26th but on the 27th. Came to help with gear oil. Gear oil in, I drop the car to check and set rear ride height from the spring change and Damn if it wasn't right on the money DONE !!
Good things.

Rolled out for the first session out of the pits and up the hill to 2. Already I could feel the difference. More stable turn in and was faster rolling over the top of 2 and put power down and it takes what I gave it.
No drama. warmed up the car to the start line and we get going, the car feels very composed over the patches between 1 and 2 the bounce is gone, nothing upset the car. If I over drove the car to fast into a turn in it would push and was easy to recover, If I got on the power to hard it would oversteer but with control.
I was told by others that the 4 wheel drift though turn 6 was a wonderful thing to behold. Since SMGDHG was here for a bit I stopped in the pits on lap 4 for tire temps and air pressures. Looked very good. Lap 7 is when it all came together and pulled off a 1:49.7. Doing a power slide out of turn 11!
Full second faster than the K-link.
The take away from all this. I don't really know. The K-link setup was willowy bouncy, it works good and would recommend it, but my butt dyno likes the setup of the AGS 4.0 with light springs and a small rear sway bar. First it's lighter than the K-link, less moving parts, easier to tune, more options with springs and sway bars.
I can just tune the AGS 4.0 system better, I have a assortment of springs and sway bars to make any combo I might need. springs from 250-450 lbs, sway bars 18mm. 20mm. 22mm. and the Strano rear 3 way adjustable if it ever came to that.
Can find the sweet spot for the shocks, Right where JRZ said to put for track use. 10/6.
Also have front sway bar choices between the Ford Racing and the Strano. The Ford being the lighter bar. Front springs will stay where they are at, no need to change them.

Now for the bad news of the day if you made this far. After the second session, the power control harness melted again. I guess the ground to it just has to much resistance, so I'm going to have to run a bigger ground from the battery to the harness.
The poor thing just stopped on my way back to the trailer in the paddock. Had the push the girl back. Day was done.. In the long run though, I was really to beat and hurting from the night before so maybe it wasn't a bad thing, I got my time not sure it was going to get better. It was getting hotter,
time where going to get slower. I put her away and just enjoyed the rest of the day. I want to thank everyone who helped with this week end, THANK YOU !


As a side note on the Hawk DTC-70's Love them!, If you use them the way they are intended, low dust and wear on the wheels and rotors. The rotors look as good as they did when I started and the dust was much less than I expected. I just wiped them off and came clean in a jiffy. The Hawks need lots of heat that's for sure.
I'm at 1200+ so they like it.

​

 

[Boss4Me]

Sonoma Update 8-26/27-23
Good weekend at Sonoma. Got a PBT of 1:49.7 with street tires on the second day, first session of the Shelby Mini Nats.
The first day I was using the Kenny Brown AGS 4.5 system on the car. 650lbs front and rear springs Strano front sway bar. The girl was fast but never made it past 1:50.7 after 5 sessions
Playing with shock setting 10/6 front 8/4 rear. Was putting down good power but a little bouncy through turns 1&2 with just a slight push in the corners had to watch my entrance speed. changed the rears to 10/6 and went into oversteer.
Nothing changed with turns 1&2. lap times about the same. So I changed it back to 8/4. End of the day it was noticed that my rear axle seals on the right side of the car was leaking. Dripping was more like it.
So the scramble for parts began. Luckily one for the shops behind turn 10 had a seals and bearing kit. Thank you Trent! So with seals in hand the thrashing began! Had to pull off the KB AGS 4.5 K-link.
Anyone who has this, knows it has a little bit of heft to it and blocks the Diff cover. Got it off, CHECK ! Most know what fallows, if not, cover comes off, mess is made, no matter how hard you try, you spill gear oil.
undo the pin that holds the center spacer on the Torsen, pull out C-clips, pull the axels, replace seals, then the reverse to put it all back together stared a 6:30pm was done and in bed at Midnight. Also in the time I changed the rear setup
to the KB AGS 4.0 setup. The rear springs are now 250lbs with a 18mm sway bar. the Roll center relocation kit ie.. dropped panhard bar. rear shock setting 10/6 on all 4 corners now. To set right height and do gear oil in the morning. went to bed after a nice hot shower.
Now it's the 27th My buddy SMGDHG from TMO group, he he was running the 26th but on the 27th. Came to help with gear oil. Gear oil in, I drop the car to check and set rear ride height from the spring change and Damn if it wasn't right on the money DONE !!
Good things.

Rolled out for the first session out of the pits and up the hill to 2. Already I could feel the difference. More stable turn in and was faster rolling over the top of 2 and put power down and it takes what I gave it.
No drama. warmed up the car to the start line and we get going, the car feels very composed over the patches between 1 and 2 the bounce is gone, nothing upset the car. If I over drove the car to fast into a turn in it would push and was easy to recover, If I got on the power to hard it would oversteer but with control.
I was told by others that the 4 wheel drift though turn 6 was a wonderful thing to behold. Since SMGDHG was here for a bit I stopped in the pits on lap 4 for tire temps and air pressures. Looked very good. Lap 7 is when it all came together and pulled off a 1:49.7. Doing a power slide out of turn 11!
Full second faster than the K-link.
The take away from all this. I don't really know. The K-link setup was willowy bouncy, it works good and would recommend it, but my butt dyno likes the setup of the AGS 4.0 with light springs and a small rear sway bar. First it's lighter than the K-link, less moving parts, easier to tune, more options with springs and sway bars.
I can just tune the AGS 4.0 system better, I have a assortment of springs and sway bars to make any combo I might need. springs from 250-450 lbs, sway bars 18mm. 20mm. 22mm. and the Strano rear 3 way adjustable if it ever came to that.
Can find the sweet spot for the shocks, Right where JRZ said to put for track use. 10/6.
Also have front sway bar choices between the Ford Racing and the Strano. The Ford being the lighter bar. Front springs will stay where they are at, no need to change them.

Now for the bad news of the day if you made this far. After the second session, the power control harness melted again. I guess the ground to it just has to much resistance, so I'm going to have to run a bigger ground from the battery to the harness.
The poor thing just stopped on my way back to the trailer in the paddock. Had the push the girl back. Day was done.. In the long run though, I was really to beat and hurting from the night before so maybe it wasn't a bad thing, I got my time not sure it was going to get better. It was getting hotter,
time where going to get slower. I put her away and just enjoyed the rest of the day. I want to thank everyone who helped with this week end, THANK YOU !

​

That sounds like a hard working weekend. Congrats on getting the axle seal repaired in the paddock.
The first test and tune on my reclamation project, BQuick had the same axle seal failure. It is a 10 y/o car. In my haste I misdiagnosed it as brake fluid, so much for my analytical skills. On the bright side I have new rear calipers

 

[Tri-bar]

That sounds like a hard working weekend. Congrats on getting the axle seal repaired in the paddock.
The first test and tune on my reclamation project, BQuick had the same axle seal failure. It is a 10 y/o car. In my haste I misdiagnosed it as brake fluid, so much for my analytical skills. On the bright side I have new rear calipers

Glad it all worked out.

 

[Fabman]

Sonoma Update 8-26/27-23
Good weekend at Sonoma. Got a PBT of 1:49.7 with street tires on the second day, first session of the Shelby Mini Nats.
The first day I was using the Kenny Brown AGS 4.5 system on the car. 650lbs front and rear springs Strano front sway bar. The girl was fast but never made it past 1:50.7 after 5 sessions
Playing with shock setting 10/6 front 8/4 rear. Was putting down good power but a little bouncy through turns 1&2 with just a slight push in the corners had to watch my entrance speed. changed the rears to 10/6 and went into oversteer.
Nothing changed with turns 1&2. lap times about the same. So I changed it back to 8/4. End of the day it was noticed that my rear axle seals on the right side of the car was leaking. Dripping was more like it.
So the scramble for parts began. Luckily one for the shops behind turn 10 had a seals and bearing kit. Thank you Trent! So with seals in hand the thrashing began! Had to pull off the KB AGS 4.5 K-link.
Anyone who has this, knows it has a little bit of heft to it and blocks the Diff cover. Got it off, CHECK ! Most know what fallows, if not, cover comes off, mess is made, no matter how hard you try, you spill gear oil.
undo the pin that holds the center spacer on the Torsen, pull out C-clips, pull the axels, replace seals, then the reverse to put it all back together stared a 6:30pm was done and in bed at Midnight. Also in the time I changed the rear setup
to the KB AGS 4.0 setup. The rear springs are now 250lbs with a 18mm sway bar. the Roll center relocation kit ie.. dropped panhard bar. rear shock setting 10/6 on all 4 corners now. To set right height and do gear oil in the morning. went to bed after a nice hot shower.
Now it's the 27th My buddy SMGDHG from TMO group, he he was running the 26th but on the 27th. Came to help with gear oil. Gear oil in, I drop the car to check and set rear ride height from the spring change and Damn if it wasn't right on the money DONE !!
Good things.

Rolled out for the first session out of the pits and up the hill to 2. Already I could feel the difference. More stable turn in and was faster rolling over the top of 2 and put power down and it takes what I gave it.
No drama. warmed up the car to the start line and we get going, the car feels very composed over the patches between 1 and 2 the bounce is gone, nothing upset the car. If I over drove the car to fast into a turn in it would push and was easy to recover, If I got on the power to hard it would oversteer but with control.
I was told by others that the 4 wheel drift though turn 6 was a wonderful thing to behold. Since SMGDHG was here for a bit I stopped in the pits on lap 4 for tire temps and air pressures. Looked very good. Lap 7 is when it all came together and pulled off a 1:49.7. Doing a power slide out of turn 11!
Full second faster than the K-link.
The take away from all this. I don't really know. The K-link setup was willowy bouncy, it works good and would recommend it, but my butt dyno likes the setup of the AGS 4.0 with light springs and a small rear sway bar. First it's lighter than the K-link, less moving parts, easier to tune, more options with springs and sway bars.
I can just tune the AGS 4.0 system better, I have a assortment of springs and sway bars to make any combo I might need. springs from 250-450 lbs, sway bars 18mm. 20mm. 22mm. and the Strano rear 3 way adjustable if it ever came to that.
Can find the sweet spot for the shocks, Right where JRZ said to put for track use. 10/6.
Also have front sway bar choices between the Ford Racing and the Strano. The Ford being the lighter bar. Front springs will stay where they are at, no need to change them.

Now for the bad news of the day if you made this far. After the second session, the power control harness melted again. I guess the ground to it just has to much resistance, so I'm going to have to run a bigger ground from the battery to the harness.
The poor thing just stopped on my way back to the trailer in the paddock. Had the push the girl back. Day was done.. In the long run though, I was really to beat and hurting from the night before so maybe it wasn't a bad thing, I got my time not sure it was going to get better. It was getting hotter,
time where going to get slower. I put her away and just enjoyed the rest of the day. I want to thank everyone who helped with this week end, THANK YOU !


As a side note on the Hawk DTC-70's Love them!, If you use them the way they are intended, low dust and wear on the wheels and rotors. The rotors look as good as they did when I started and the dust was much less than I expected. I just wiped them off and came clean in a jiffy. The Hawks need lots of heat that's for sure.
I'm at 1200+ so they like it.

​

Excellent

 

[67GTA]

Sonoma Update 8-26/27-23
Good weekend at Sonoma. Got a PBT of 1:49.7 with street tires on the second day, first session of the Shelby Mini Nats.
The first day I was using the Kenny Brown AGS 4.5 system on the car. 650lbs front and rear springs Strano front sway bar. The girl was fast but never made it past 1:50.7 after 5 sessions
Playing with shock setting 10/6 front 8/4 rear. Was putting down good power but a little bouncy through turns 1&2 with just a slight push in the corners had to watch my entrance speed. changed the rears to 10/6 and went into oversteer.
Nothing changed with turns 1&2. lap times about the same. So I changed it back to 8/4. End of the day it was noticed that my rear axle seals on the right side of the car was leaking. Dripping was more like it.
So the scramble for parts began. Luckily one for the shops behind turn 10 had a seals and bearing kit. Thank you Trent! So with seals in hand the thrashing began! Had to pull off the KB AGS 4.5 K-link.
Anyone who has this, knows it has a little bit of heft to it and blocks the Diff cover. Got it off, CHECK ! Most know what fallows, if not, cover comes off, mess is made, no matter how hard you try, you spill gear oil.
undo the pin that holds the center spacer on the Torsen, pull out C-clips, pull the axels, replace seals, then the reverse to put it all back together stared a 6:30pm was done and in bed at Midnight. Also in the time I changed the rear setup
to the KB AGS 4.0 setup. The rear springs are now 250lbs with a 18mm sway bar. the Roll center relocation kit ie.. dropped panhard bar. rear shock setting 10/6 on all 4 corners now. To set right height and do gear oil in the morning. went to bed after a nice hot shower.
Now it's the 27th My buddy SMGDHG from TMO group, he he was running the 26th but on the 27th. Came to help with gear oil. Gear oil in, I drop the car to check and set rear ride height from the spring change and Damn if it wasn't right on the money DONE !!
Good things.

Rolled out for the first session out of the pits and up the hill to 2. Already I could feel the difference. More stable turn in and was faster rolling over the top of 2 and put power down and it takes what I gave it.
No drama. warmed up the car to the start line and we get going, the car feels very composed over the patches between 1 and 2 the bounce is gone, nothing upset the car. If I over drove the car to fast into a turn in it would push and was easy to recover, If I got on the power to hard it would oversteer but with control.
I was told by others that the 4 wheel drift though turn 6 was a wonderful thing to behold. Since SMGDHG was here for a bit I stopped in the pits on lap 4 for tire temps and air pressures. Looked very good. Lap 7 is when it all came together and pulled off a 1:49.7. Doing a power slide out of turn 11!
Full second faster than the K-link.
The take away from all this. I don't really know. The K-link setup was willowy bouncy, it works good and would recommend it, but my butt dyno likes the setup of the AGS 4.0 with light springs and a small rear sway bar. First it's lighter than the K-link, less moving parts, easier to tune, more options with springs and sway bars.
I can just tune the AGS 4.0 system better, I have a assortment of springs and sway bars to make any combo I might need. springs from 250-450 lbs, sway bars 18mm. 20mm. 22mm. and the Strano rear 3 way adjustable if it ever came to that.
Can find the sweet spot for the shocks, Right where JRZ said to put for track use. 10/6.
Also have front sway bar choices between the Ford Racing and the Strano. The Ford being the lighter bar. Front springs will stay where they are at, no need to change them.

Now for the bad news of the day if you made this far. After the second session, the power control harness melted again. I guess the ground to it just has to much resistance, so I'm going to have to run a bigger ground from the battery to the harness.
The poor thing just stopped on my way back to the trailer in the paddock. Had the push the girl back. Day was done.. In the long run though, I was really to beat and hurting from the night before so maybe it wasn't a bad thing, I got my time not sure it was going to get better. It was getting hotter,
time where going to get slower. I put her away and just enjoyed the rest of the day. I want to thank everyone who helped with this week end, THANK YOU !


As a side note on the Hawk DTC-70's Love them!, If you use them the way they are intended, low dust and wear on the wheels and rotors. The rotors look as good as they did when I started and the dust was much less than I expected. I just wiped them off and came clean in a jiffy. The Hawks need lots of heat that's for sure.
I'm at 1200+ so they like it.

​

Congrats on the Sub 50!!

Girodisc 2 piece 13.8” rear rotors should be available by October. I haven’t had an axle seal fail since switching to the larger GT500 rotor and getting the heat out away from the axle. Looking forward to the 2 piece as an upgrade over the Raybestos R300’s I’ve been running.

 

[Tri-bar]

Congrats on the Sub 50!!

Girodisc 2 piece 13.8” rear rotors should be available by October. I haven’t had an axle seal fail since switching to the larger GT500 rotor and getting the heat out away from the axle. Looking forward to the 2 piece as an upgrade over the Raybestos R300’s I’ve been running.

Oh really, about time ! yeah, will get a set for sure then.

 

[Fabman]

Sonoma Update 8-26/27-23
Good weekend at Sonoma. Got a PBT of 1:49.7 with street tires on the second day, first session of the Shelby Mini Nats.
The first day I was using the Kenny Brown AGS 4.5 system on the car. 650lbs front and rear springs Strano front sway bar. The girl was fast but never made it past 1:50.7 after 5 sessions
Playing with shock setting 10/6 front 8/4 rear. Was putting down good power but a little bouncy through turns 1&2 with just a slight push in the corners had to watch my entrance speed. changed the rears to 10/6 and went into oversteer.
Nothing changed with turns 1&2. lap times about the same. So I changed it back to 8/4. End of the day it was noticed that my rear axle seals on the right side of the car was leaking. Dripping was more like it.
So the scramble for parts began. Luckily one for the shops behind turn 10 had a seals and bearing kit. Thank you Trent! So with seals in hand the thrashing began! Had to pull off the KB AGS 4.5 K-link.
Anyone who has this, knows it has a little bit of heft to it and blocks the Diff cover. Got it off, CHECK ! Most know what fallows, if not, cover comes off, mess is made, no matter how hard you try, you spill gear oil.
undo the pin that holds the center spacer on the Torsen, pull out C-clips, pull the axels, replace seals, then the reverse to put it all back together stared a 6:30pm was done and in bed at Midnight. Also in the time I changed the rear setup
to the KB AGS 4.0 setup. The rear springs are now 250lbs with a 18mm sway bar. the Roll center relocation kit ie.. dropped panhard bar. rear shock setting 10/6 on all 4 corners now. To set right height and do gear oil in the morning. went to bed after a nice hot shower.
Now it's the 27th My buddy SMGDHG from TMO group, he he was running the 26th but on the 27th. Came to help with gear oil. Gear oil in, I drop the car to check and set rear ride height from the spring change and Damn if it wasn't right on the money DONE !!
Good things.

Rolled out for the first session out of the pits and up the hill to 2. Already I could feel the difference. More stable turn in and was faster rolling over the top of 2 and put power down and it takes what I gave it.
No drama. warmed up the car to the start line and we get going, the car feels very composed over the patches between 1 and 2 the bounce is gone, nothing upset the car. If I over drove the car to fast into a turn in it would push and was easy to recover, If I got on the power to hard it would oversteer but with control.
I was told by others that the 4 wheel drift though turn 6 was a wonderful thing to behold. Since SMGDHG was here for a bit I stopped in the pits on lap 4 for tire temps and air pressures. Looked very good. Lap 7 is when it all came together and pulled off a 1:49.7. Doing a power slide out of turn 11!
Full second faster than the K-link.
The take away from all this. I don't really know. The K-link setup was willowy bouncy, it works good and would recommend it, but my butt dyno likes the setup of the AGS 4.0 with light springs and a small rear sway bar. First it's lighter than the K-link, less moving parts, easier to tune, more options with springs and sway bars.
I can just tune the AGS 4.0 system better, I have a assortment of springs and sway bars to make any combo I might need. springs from 250-450 lbs, sway bars 18mm. 20mm. 22mm. and the Strano rear 3 way adjustable if it ever came to that.
Can find the sweet spot for the shocks, Right where JRZ said to put for track use. 10/6.
Also have front sway bar choices between the Ford Racing and the Strano. The Ford being the lighter bar. Front springs will stay where they are at, no need to change them.

Now for the bad news of the day if you made this far. After the second session, the power control harness melted again. I guess the ground to it just has to much resistance, so I'm going to have to run a bigger ground from the battery to the harness.
The poor thing just stopped on my way back to the trailer in the paddock. Had the push the girl back. Day was done.. In the long run though, I was really to beat and hurting from the night before so maybe it wasn't a bad thing, I got my time not sure it was going to get better. It was getting hotter,
time where going to get slower. I put her away and just enjoyed the rest of the day. I want to thank everyone who helped with this week end, THANK YOU !


As a side note on the Hawk DTC-70's Love them!, If you use them the way they are intended, low dust and wear on the wheels and rotors. The rotors look as good as they did when I started and the dust was much less than I expected. I just wiped them off and came clean in a jiffy. The Hawks need lots of heat that's for sure.
I'm at 1200+ so they like it.

​

Have you tried the AGS 4.0 without the sway bar? I think Kenny does that setup with #400's and no rear bar.
My RC is right down there with the 4.0 and I tried #400's at sonoma and it was good but forward traction suffered (as expected) but I liked the articulation of the low RC and no bar.
Ended up with my typical #300's out back, watts in the bottom-no bar for my personal best. Tried a higher RC and then right back to the bottom hole. I was thinking about trying that new Cortex bar there but haven't been back since so I wondered if you had gone sans bar there. Sonoma is just so bumpy I think the soft springs/bars allow better compliance and although it feels squishy, I ran my best times with the softer setup front and rear.
Anyway, you rocked as usual!

 

[Tri-bar]

Have you tried the AGS 4.0 without the sway bar? I think Kenny does that setup with #400's and no rear bar.
My RC is right down there with the 4.0 and I tried #400's at sonoma and it was good but forward traction suffered (as expected) but I liked the articulation of the low RC and no bar.
Ended up with my typical #300's out back, watts in the bottom-no bar for my personal best. Tried a higher RC and then right back to the bottom hole. I was thinking about trying that new Cortex bar there but haven't been back since so I wondered if you had gone sans bar there. Sonoma is just so bumpy I think the soft springs/bars allow better compliance and although it feels squishy, I ran my best times with the softer setup front and rear.
Anyway, you rocked as usual!

I have tried it with no rear bar, I like the lite springs and small sway bar set up, it took the rear twitch away over the rough stuff

 

[Tri-bar]

 

[Boss4Me]

Congrats on the Sub 50!!

Girodisc 2 piece 13.8” rear rotors should be available by October. I haven’t had an axle seal fail since switching to the larger GT500 rotor and getting the heat out away from the axle. Looking forward to the 2 piece as an upgrade over the Raybestos R300’s I’ve been running.

Congrats on the Sub 50!!

Girodisc 2 piece 13.8” rear rotors should be available by October. I haven’t had an axle seal fail since switching to the larger GT500 rotor and getting the heat out away from the axle. Looking forward to the 2 piece as an upgrade over the Raybestos R300’s I’ve been running.

67GTA’s reply caused me to think about my recent axle seal failure during BQuick’s very first track event. Is there really enough rear rotor heat generated to cause this? My thoughts are 1) rear brakes don’t do much work so they wouldn’t generate excessive heat, 2) in order for sufficient heat to travel to the seal, lots of other heat sinks need to get hot, 3) it is certainly understandable that larger diameter rotors and 2-piece rotors would dissipate the heat better than 1-piece 11” dia rotors but is the real real for the upgrade is rotational mass reduction? Regarding my seal failure, I assumed it is a 10 y/o car that lived a daily driver life and the first time it was stressed on track this was one of the failures.

 

[67GTA]

67GTA’s reply caused me to think about my recent axle seal failure during BQuick’s very first track event. Is there really enough rear rotor heat generated to cause this? My thoughts are 1) rear brakes don’t do much work so they wouldn’t generate excessive heat, 2) in order for sufficient heat to travel to the seal, lots of other heat sinks need to get hot, 3) it is certainly understandable that larger diameter rotors and 2-piece rotors would dissipate the heat better than 1-piece 11” dia rotors but is the real real for the upgrade is rotational mass reduction? Regarding my seal failure, I assumed it is a 10 y/o car that lived a daily driver life and the first time it was stressed on track this was one of the failures.

While the rears do less than the front brakes, the rears get really hot on track, especially with race compound pads. I was skeptical too, but I can say from experience that I had a few seals fail with the small rotors (less than a year), and not a single heat-related failure since going to the large rotors (almost 3 years now).

I did blow an axle seal out when the vent tube got crimped and the axle housing built pressure, so also something to consider on yours. The stock vents were notorious for getting damaged or melted on street cars, and until the diff fluid is heated up they won’t build enough pressure to pop a seal.

One last suggestion on the rear brakes - there are steel dust shields behind the rotors that need to come off for track use. Allows better ventilation.

 

[Boss4Me]

While the rears do less than the front brakes, the rears get really hot on track, especially with race compound pads. I was skeptical too, but I can say from experience that I had a few seals fail with the small rotors (less than a year), and not a single heat-related failure since going to the large rotors (almost 3 years now).

I did blow an axle seal out when the vent tube got crimped and the axle housing built pressure, so also something to consider on yours. The stock vents were notorious for getting damaged or melted on street cars, and until the diff fluid is heated up they won’t build enough pressure to pop a seal.

One last suggestion on the rear brakes - there are steel dust shields behind the rotors that need to come off for track use. Allows better ventilation.

Thanks. Since the leak, I have removed the rotor dust shields, new calipers installed, new seals/bearings of course. I will check the vent. Rotors are currently 1-pc with GLoc R10’s.
Regarding the larger rotors, I have the GT500 caliper brackets and 1-pc rotors and was going to put those on while the axle was apart, but didn’t. Because two race teams have advised they stayed with the 11” rotors on their race cars. I will be visiting Capaldi Racing this week and now this is on my question list.

 

[SMGDHG]

For those who have blown the rear seals:

were you running a rear diff catch can?

Also, has anybody taken rear rotor, caliper and pad temps?

I took them once and they were comically low. I think the rotor was low 400°’s and the pad was mid 200’s°. Not sure of ambient temperature that day, and I wasn’t pushing that much as a driver yet. But seeing how cool they were made me decide to not pay attention to them again. LOL.

Great running with you tribar and congrats on the PB! Maybe I should post the last session video?

 

[Tri-bar]

For those who have blown the rear seals:

were you running a rear diff catch can?

Also, has anybody taken rear rotor, caliper and pad temps?

I took them once and they were comically low. I think the rotor was low 400°’s and the pad was mid 200’s°. Not sure of ambient temperature that day, and I wasn’t pushing that much as a driver yet. But seeing how cool they were made me decide to not pay attention to them again. LOL.

Great running with you tribar and congrats on the PB! Maybe I should post the last session video?

Would love to see it..

 

[Tri-bar]

 

[twistedneck]

Thanks. Since the leak, I have removed the rotor dust shields, new calipers installed, new seals/bearings of course. I will check the vent. Rotors are currently 1-pc with GLoc R10’s.
Regarding the larger rotors, I have the GT500 caliper brackets and 1-pc rotors and was going to put those on while the axle was apart, but didn’t. Because two race teams have advised they stayed with the 11” rotors on their race cars. I will be visiting Capaldi Racing this week and now this is on my question list.

If possible can you share this list with us and the answers they provide? I've always wanted to work with these guys since they are located near me. PS. thanks for the heads up on the 11" rotor size.

 

[Boss4Me]

If possible can you share this list with us and the answers they provide? I've always wanted to work with these guys since they are located near me. PS. thanks for the heads up on the 11" rotor size.

My issues discussed at Capaldi were cooling improvements and causes of rear axle seal failure. Craig and Leo were very helpful suggesting steps to fix these issues. BQuick ('14 GT Track Pack) is new to me this Spring with only 2 track events to find/fix issues. BQuick replaced my '13 Boss LS.

The virtual oil temp gauge ran into yellow/red in about 2 laps at Gingerman, then slow a bit and temp quickly falls back into green. Steps: 1) GT500 fan module was purchased at Capaldi, it is installed, no track time yet 2) hood venting, TrackSpec vents ordered from OP Mustang (3) box in radiator, winter project

Rear axle seal failed. Venting into breather/tank is what they install on their cars, I am working on my adaptation.

Rear brakes. I assumed brake heat caused the axle seal to fail, maybe it was a contributor, maybe not. That would mean steps need to be taken to reduce heat like larger rotors. Capaldi's suggestion for rear brakes is to keep 11" rotors, remove backing plates (Boss 302 Supplement also recommends this for track prep) to help with heat. Brake bias is best maintained with 11" rotors and experiment with pad compounds for bias. Larger diameter rotors mess with bias and making trail braking difficult.

Thanks to Leo and Craig.

 

[twistedneck]

While the rears do less than the front brakes, the rears get really hot on track, especially with race compound pads. I was skeptical too, but I can say from experience that I had a few seals fail with the small rotors (less than a year), and not a single heat-related failure since going to the large rotors (almost 3 years now).

I did blow an axle seal out when the vent tube got crimped and the axle housing built pressure, so also something to consider on yours. The stock vents were notorious for getting damaged or melted on street cars, and until the diff fluid is heated up they won’t build enough pressure to pop a seal.

One last suggestion on the rear brakes - there are steel dust shields behind the rotors that need to come off for track use. Allows better ventilation.

I had no clue about the rear dust shield, thank you very much for that piece of information 67GTA.. too late for this weekend's track fun at Waterford Hills, but next time..

My issues discussed at Capaldi were cooling improvements and causes of rear axle seal failure. Craig and Leo were very helpful suggesting steps to fix these issues. BQuick ('14 GT Track Pack) is new to me this Spring with only 2 track events to find/fix issues. BQuick replaced my '13 Boss LS.

The virtual oil temp gauge ran into yellow/red in about 2 laps at Gingerman, then slow a bit and temp quickly falls back into green. Steps: 1) GT500 fan module was purchased at Capaldi, it is installed, no track time yet 2) hood venting, TrackSpec vents ordered from OP Mustang (3) box in radiator, winter project

Rear axle seal failed. Venting into breather/tank is what they install on their cars, I am working on my adaptation.

Rear brakes. I assumed brake heat caused the axle seal to fail, maybe it was a contributor, maybe not. That would mean steps need to be taken to reduce heat like larger rotors. Capaldi's suggestion for rear brakes is to keep 11" rotors, remove backing plates (Boss 302 Supplement also recommends this for track prep) to help with heat. Brake bias is best maintained with 11" rotors and experiment with pad compounds for bias. Larger diameter rotors mess with bias and making trail braking difficult.

Thanks to Leo and Craig.

Virtual oil temp? i just spent $300 on hardware to plumb one in next to my setrab cooler.. when you say hot what is too hot? i've heard these coyotes get near 300F. All of these questions are priceless btw, and relate directly to my questions. I went with the track louvers on my mustang hood center and sides and its special how smooth and unbuffered it is at speed on the highway. What are you running for tires any questions about that?