The Mustang Forum for Track & Racing Enthusiasts

Taking your Mustang to an open track/HPDE event for the first time? Do you race competitively? This forum is for you! Log in to remove most ads.

  • Welcome to the Ford Mustang forum built for owners of the Mustang GT350, BOSS 302, GT500, and all other S550, S197, SN95, Fox Body and older Mustangs set up for open track days, road racing, and/or autocross. Join our forum, interact with others, share your build, and help us strengthen this community!

Watson Racing Roll Bar for 2015+ S550 Mustang and GT350

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

VoodooBOSS said:
Thanks. A one piece bottom is a nice improvement over the one I had. I think I'd rather have those slits going towards the bottom than the sides. Is there velcro where the slits are to hold it to the car? Can you grab a photo of the back? No biggie if you can't.
Here you go:

20160130_135031_zps40k6bgio.jpg
 
The carpet kit looks to be a better and simpler design than the previous one.
 
VoodooBOSS said:
The carpet kit looks to be a better and simpler design than the previous one.
Good deal. I think it will look good when done. It's similar to the Schrader kit I had, but the carpet is a shorter pile so looks cleaner.
 
66
39
I just did my Watson roll bar install. Be very careful when threading the plate bolts into the underneath brackets. It is very easy to cross thread them. the brackets tend to tilt due to them being on the edge of the beam flanges underneath. Also make sure your line up and drill the holes in the line of the spot welds. The line your worried about is from left to right along the front two bolts and also left to right along the rear two bolts.

Also, the 3 side bolts on each side of the main hoop brackets are only 8.8 grade bolts. Easily snapped off. I upgraded them to 10.9 grade for safety sake. I wish it had more bolts as I race mine a lot and want it to fully hold up if in accident. I built my custom Rollbar for my 2011 Stang GT/CS with glass roof since nobody had one that would fit due to the lower interior roofline and made mine as strong as possible with 6 attachment points per main hoop side.

I'm doing my own rear seat delete and will hopefully get some pictures posted soon. I have my RSD mocked up in wood and MSD right now but it will be going to the Aluminum fabricator this week.
 
66
39
One more suggestion. Tape up the bolt holes so (like the factory does) that are left exposed with removed bolts. Keep air and dirt and possibly water out.
 
OCPONY said:
Also, the 3 side bolts on each side of the main hoop brackets are only 8.8 grade bolts. Easily snapped off. I upgraded them to 10.9 grade for safety sake. I wish it had more bolts as I race mine a lot and want it to fully hold up if in accident. I built my custom Rollbar for my 2011 Stang GT/CS with glass roof since nobody had one that would fit due to the lower interior roofline and made mine as strong as possible with 6 attachment points per main hoop side.
Good catch on the bolts. I'm a little surprised WR didn't catch this and provide upgraded bolts in the kit. The stock bolts on the gussets are fine for their intended purpose but adding a roll bar that's designed to increase safety in a rollover will put additional stress on the bolts. It would be nice to source the bolts online so other members can order them. For those familiar with the Cooltech belt clips for the S197 they came with 10.9 bolts. ;)
 
66
39
I was able to get them from my local auto/marine parts store. He only carries 10.9 grade and higher in his Metric bolts. Lowes hardware was 8.8 grade.
 
OCPONY said:
I just did my Watson roll bar install. Be very careful when threading the plate bolts into the underneath brackets. It is very easy to cross thread them. the brackets tend to tilt due to them being on the edge of the beam flanges underneath. Also make sure your line up and drill the holes in the line of the spot welds. The line your worried about is from left to right along the front two bolts and also left to right along the rear two bolts.

Also, the 3 side bolts on each side of the main hoop brackets are only 8.8 grade bolts. Easily snapped off. I upgraded them to 10.9 grade for safety sake. I wish it had more bolts as I race mine a lot and want it to fully hold up if in accident. I built my custom Rollbar for my 2011 Stang GT/CS with glass roof since nobody had one that would fit due to the lower interior roofline and made mine as strong as possible with 6 attachment points per main hoop side.

I'm doing my own rear seat delete and will hopefully get some pictures posted soon. I have my RSD mocked up in wood and MSD right now but it will be going to the Aluminum fabricator this week.
I see that now. I really questioned reusing the OEM bolts since they weren't intended for a roll bar. Yea, my car is mostly a track and Time Trial car as well so God forbid I need it, but if I do it needs to work ;) Thanks I'll try to find some 10.9 today. Do you know the bolt size off hand? I'll just bring one with me otherwise.
 
66
39
I just took one with me to the store. I measured the take out bolt. It is 8mm 1.25 thread and just under 25mm of thread. the bolt is longer though due to the non threaded part so a 30mm length should work. Get SAE 5/16 washers though as the metric washers are much smaller outer diameter. I snapped the oem bolt off before even getting the bracket pulled up to the side of he car.
 
66
39
Cloud9 could you weight your Watson RSD kit and post it? Is there any supports for the lower section? Pics of it too maybe?
 
OCPONY said:
I just took one with me to the store. I measured the take out bolt. It is 8mm 1.25 thread and just under 25mm of thread. the bolt is longer though due to the non threaded part so a 30mm length should work. Get SAE 5/16 washers though as the metric washers are much smaller outer diameter. I snapped the oem bolt off before even getting the bracket pulled up to the side of he car.
Thanks, I just pulled one and measured it at 8mm as well. I'll take with me to the store, and also find those washers. Were you able to clear the brake lines using just one washer for the rear bolts? I wondered if more washers might be needed to keep the end of the bolt closer to flush with the nut to avoid potential contact with the brake line.
 
OCPONY said:
Cloud9 could you weight your Watson RSD kit and post it? Is there any supports for the lower section? Pics of it too maybe?
It's 13 lbs. for both the top and bottom sections combined. Yes there are carpet wrapped foam blocks under each seat to support it.

Pic of the underside:

20160131_095311_zpseefzjdno.jpg
 
66
39
cloud9 said:
Thanks, I just pulled one and measured it at 8mm as well. I'll take with me to the store, and also find those washers. Were you able to clear the brake lines using just one washer for the rear bolts? I wondered if more washers might be needed to keep the end of the bolt closer to flush with the nut to avoid potential contact with the brake line.

I just bent the lines slightly to go around the bolts. The Drivers side is tougher to get to and harder to see. I have a lift but I just did it on the floor in my garage by my self. Its tricky but I used 2 1"x2" magnets on each bracket to hold them in place while I threaded the bolts and allen head bold in from the top. I weld stuff so I have lots of magnets around. I got many from Harbor Freight on the cheap.
 
OCPONY said:
I just took one with me to the store. I measured the take out bolt. It is 8mm 1.25 thread and just under 25mm of thread. the bolt is longer though due to the non threaded part so a 30mm length should work. Get SAE 5/16 washers though as the metric washers are much smaller outer diameter. I snapped the oem bolt off before even getting the bracket pulled up to the side of he car.
Ace had them. I went with grade 10.9 M8 x 1.25 x 30mm and SAE grade 8 5/16 washers. Is that what you used? Glad to have you on the forum.
 

TMO Supporting Vendors

Top