Well, time to take the engine out again!

Discussion in 'Road Racing Forum' started by Mad Hatter, Jan 10, 2019.

  1. Mad Hatter

    Mad Hatter Gotta go Faster

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    Looking at @captdistraction engine sagas... Decided that we had better look at the engine after its last three hour race and 6 years of 20 to 30 events a year... Had a friendly track day just a few weeks ago and noticed the car was a little slower then usual.

    Compression test came back just now with 125 psi in all cylinders.... at least it was even.... With a shot of oil it went up to 142.....

    Since they were all even would I be right to hope thats it just worn rings??

    Engines on its way out of the car tomorrow and will have an idea of what the wear soon enough.

    Assuming everything is ok inside the trusty beast.... would a ring and bearing job be fine... or should I look at higher performance pistons? maybe 11.2 to 1? or leave enough alone....

    Their goes the tire budget and the Ben Calmer Geforce 1000hp MT82!
     
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  2. Bill Pemberton

    Bill Pemberton TMO Addict

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    ......hoping for a ring and bearing job, as we all need our tire budgets!
     
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  3. Mad Hatter

    Mad Hatter Gotta go Faster

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    Fingers crossed.... As Monty Python says....(Cue music) Always look on the bright side of life!!! With new rings..... the car will be much faster!
     
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  4. Mad Hatter

    Mad Hatter Gotta go Faster

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    @Grant 302 Need your help in spending money!!! New 11.2:1 pistons or just rings...... assuming nothing is melted! o_O
     
  5. VoodooBoss

    VoodooBoss Rick Moderator

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    Good luck with the repairs!
     
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  6. Mad Hatter

    Mad Hatter Gotta go Faster

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    Fingers crossed!
     
  7. Grant 302

    Grant 302 OPM Spent: $587,402 Moderator

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    I'd take a look first. I'd assume rings at the least and maybe cleanup in the bore/re-hone if needed or measurements are taken and assuming no major issues.

    Newer pistons and coatings should help, but I'd prefer considering piston squirters first, even with the OEM slugs.

    Good luck!
     
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  8. Coz

    Coz TMO Race

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    Your mechanic is finally gonna get his wish to tear apart the engine.

    Possibly valve stem seals too?
     
  9. Mad Hatter

    Mad Hatter Gotta go Faster

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    Too true! So far he has not said " I TOLD YOU SO!" But I'm sure he will!

    Sent from my SM-G900M using Tapatalk
     
  10. Mad Hatter

    Mad Hatter Gotta go Faster

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    Making a list..... For rings, seals and bearings.... Just go with Ford OEM stuff? or step up to higher performance goodies???

    Thinking about the oil squirters..... would that require and machining or is the Boss block set up for them?
     
  11. racer47

    racer47 All I got left is fast

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  12. BigTaco

    BigTaco TMO Addict

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    Don’t lock out your cam phasers....
     
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  13. Mad Hatter

    Mad Hatter Gotta go Faster

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    No Way... just put in LM intake only cams!!!
     
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  14. Coz

    Coz TMO Race

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    Agree. That would totally neuter any advantage you gained with the L&M intake only cam.
     
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  15. Mad Hatter

    Mad Hatter Gotta go Faster

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    Both would be nice. But for the 13:1 compression I would have to switch to 100% race gas only and a that goes for about US$27 a gallon. I currently mix gas to get to close to 98 octane.

    the Jerico is a crash box?? I guess that measn giving up the last vestiges of a road legal car!!
     
  16. Mad Hatter

    Mad Hatter Gotta go Faster

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    Out of curiosity...... What would be the typical compression psi of a Stock coyote with a solid motor?
     
  17. Grant 302

    Grant 302 OPM Spent: $587,402 Moderator

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    I'd stick with the OEM bearings. If you stick with OEM slugs, then I'd do the same with the rings.

    With a focus on longevity, I'd look at any parts that fail and break like OPGs. And I haven't heard of a lot of Boss engine parts failing even with high HP levels. Otherwise, spend the money on balance/blueprinting machine work and keeping tolerances on the tight side. Say, like a Roush sealed engine - plus any improvements you want or already have like the cams, or just for example, something like a CJ intake, etc. Not that I'd do the intake.

    I'm not suggesting you do it, but one thing I would do with the engine apart is to polish the exhaust ports. Not port them or increase port volume, just polish to a smooth mirror finish.

    It should already be machined for it, but have block-off plates installed.

    If you run squirters, it's my opinion that you can run tighter clearance regardless of your piston/ring choice. Talk to your mechanic and the shop that would do the work.

    mid 130s, I think is typical. Might depend on elevation a bit.
     
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  18. racer47

    racer47 All I got left is fast

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    That's street car thinking. If you are racing from 4500 to 7500 rpm, its irrelevant how much torque you make a 3000 rpm. Phasers are for extending the rpm range. If the cam doesn't need springs and doesn't need to reduce phaser movement, its not a race cam and you are giving up high rpm power to keep unneeded low rpm power.

    https://www.lmengines.com/l-m-intake-only-5-0l-coyote-camshaft-11-14.html
    Drop in, no springs required, “intake only” camshaft set for 11-14 Ford 5.0L Coyote engines. Developed at the request and feedback of a top modular tuner, we have designed a camshaft profile that gains power across the entire RPM range without sacrificing low and mid-range power. Easy to tune, maintains drivability, and maintains full VCT movement and functionality.
    With full TiVCT and NO limiters, full torque is obtained thru mid-range and low RPM

    Yes its a dog ring style trans. Much faster upshifts and much easier to heel toe downshift. Plus this particular 5 speed is a close ratio box. You would never be caught between gears, ie wanting something like a 3.5 gear for a given corner.

    Lastly, are you spending this kind of money because you want a fast street car? Or do you want to win races? If its the latter, stop thinking about the best available street car parts and start thinking about which race car parts you need.
     
    Last edited: Jan 11, 2019
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  19. Mad Hatter

    Mad Hatter Gotta go Faster

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    Does that mean I am not as bad as I thought?? My readings are at 125 psi at 2900 feet...... But the wet test ran 10 psi higher and leak down at 15%

    This chart through me off a bit....
    upload_2019-1-11_15-24-10.jpeg
     

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