Consensus is: I am basically mechanically maxed out with ford plates and i need more camber just chewed up a new set of front trofeos.

Vorshlag or dark horse R? That is the question.

Gunslinger55 said:

Consensus is: I am basically mechanically maxed out with ford plates and i need more camber just chewed up a new set of front trofeos.

Vorshlag or dark horse R? That is the question.

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Dark Horse R will be more work than i think you realise. It isn't a straight forward bolt on one afternoon. It is also designed for a specific shock absorber setup.
You need to cut the complete hump off the strut tower and possibly clearance the remaining hole. The bearing in the camber plate may be a different diameter to the shaft on your current shock absorber. These were designed for Multimatic shocks. You are currently running standard shocks with standard spring plates that may hit the inner tower sheet metal at extreme camber. The spring setup may be too short as well as the top mount of the shock absorber it now sitting above the top of the tower, not under it. Almost forgot, pretty sure they don't bolt into a factory location unlike my FP350S ones did. Would need to find the specific alignment pattern to be drilled. And after all that you loose your strut tower brace as well.

What my strut tower top looked like to fit the earlier version.

Ok forget that. Vorshlag it is

I’ll save those when i buy an R lol

Anyone have any experience with the Ground Control camber/caster plates
I am new to the track environment 2nd event last weekend at VIR basically running a stock 2017 GT350 and feel like I need help in the corners. The car as a daily driver in good weather as well and like the ease of converting back to stock camber. Sure would be interested options from this group.

Please have a look at my build log at 6g forum. Many tips for alignment including mods for more camber. I run -4.2° up front (Steeda plates) lower pressures and finally getting even tread wear.

GTP said:

Please have a look at my build log at 6g forum. Many tips for alignment including mods for more camber. I run -4.2° up front (Steeda plates) lower pressures and finally getting even tread wear.

GTP’s Poor Mans McLaren (w/ pics, tips, & techniques)

Rather than showcase my car, I chose to focus my build log on tips and techniques for mods and service. Master link list to my more helpful posts. New posts added will display NEW. ALIGNMENT Multi-part series on DIY methods for measuring and adjusting your car's alignment At-home method for...

www.mustang6g.com

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Wow, what a bunch of useful threads! Thank you.

Junkyard Dog said:

Ford Performance sells them separately.

https://www.ford.com/product/mustang-front-strut-mount-adjustable-camber-p2935370274?gmcid=marketplace-gs-cta-accessories&searchid=20643481100%7C157311292289%7Cpla-293946777986&fcid=pse_20643481100_google-pla&ef_id=Cj0KCQjw9-PNBhDfARIsABHN6-1fAzZ70T4NASYIORq0O6sWRVDuv-LH3GFlwPXqWe3nryMPWxN76b8aAvoHEALw_wcB%3AG%3As&s_kwcid=AL!2519!3!676763613569!!!g!293946777986!!20643481100!157311292289&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=20643481100&gclid=Cj0KCQjw9-PNBhDfARIsABHN6-1fAzZ70T4NASYIORq0O6sWRVDuv-LH3GFlwPXqWe3nryMPWxN76b8aAvoHEALw_wcB

and they say

• Original equipment on 2024-2025 Mustang Dark Horse & 2021-2023 Mach 1 Handling Packs
• Fits 2024-2026 Mustang Dark Horse
• Fits 2015-2026 Mustang EcoBoost & GT
• Fits 2015-2020 Mustang GT350 & GT350R
• Fits 2020-2023 Mustang GT500
• Camber adjustments up to -2.3 degrees and optimized rubber durometer provides excellent handling tunability
• NOTE: Requires all hardware to mount to the strut spring assembly. Additional assembly hardware may be required.

I just don't know if that means -2.3° negative is the maximum camber or if that is the range of adjustment from a starting point that is not 0° ???

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Also late to the party but I'll throw in my specs. I am using them and they max out to -2.4 degrees on mine, so that's the max camber, not the range of adjustment. That is also not enough camber to require cutting out the strut tower hole for more camber, there's still more room in the tower for more camber if the plates would adjust further. I wish they would adjust more but on retirement income I'll settle for what I have.

Junkyard Dog said:

Wow, what a bunch of useful threads! Thank you.

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Thanks, I think so. I finally created a build log by finding all my own posts and creating links to them.

I like math, solving problems, designing/building/fixing stuff.

GJarrett said:

Also late to the party but I'll throw in my specs. I am using them and they max out to -2.4 degrees on mine, so that's the max camber, not the range of adjustment. That is also not enough camber to require cutting out the strut tower hole for more camber, there's still more room in the tower for more camber if the plates would adjust further. I wish they would adjust more but on retirement income I'll settle for what I have.

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^This

Almost ALL camber plates have this much total adjustment. Not enough for 200tw tires on track.

Another link in my build thread explains how the Steeda plates get that extra degree of camber through an asymmetric design. Even so I had to slot my upper strut bolt holes for another 1 degree camber. My max is now -4.2°.

GJarrett said:

Also late to the party but I'll throw in my specs. I am using them and they max out to -2.4 degrees on mine, so that's the max camber, not the range of adjustment. That is also not enough camber to require cutting out the strut tower hole for more camber, there's still more room in the tower for more camber if the plates would adjust further. I wish they would adjust more but on retirement income I'll settle for what I have.

Click to expand...

Thanks for adding your real world experience on this issue.

You could consider the SPL lower control arms to make camber change too. Lengthening the lower arm slightly can add negative camber in addition to the top plates. Similar to camber slugs and slotted struts, but without changing the tire to strut body clearance that comes with that. The Ford plates are very limited for serious track use. -3.0 to -4.0 is a good range for most tires on road courses.

steveespo said:

You could consider the SPL lower control arms to make camber change too. Lengthening the lower arm slightly can add negative camber in addition to the top plates. Similar to camber slugs and slotted struts, but without changing the tire to strut body clearance that comes with that. The Ford plates are very limited for serious track use. -3.0 to -4.0 is a good range for most tires on road courses.

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Very fancy.

It looks like SPL does not make anything for the S650 Mustang yet.

Junkyard Dog said:

Very fancy.

It looks like SPL does not make anything for the S650 Mustang yet.

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Same as S550 if Dark Horse. Standard spindles I am not 100% sure

Well, steveespo, you have opened up a whole new world for me. I wonder how I can do with the stock Ford OEM adjustable camber plates and some SPL lower control arms with 11" wheels and 305 or 315 tires.

I'm thinking the same thing. Keep my camber plates and add the SPL arms to increase the camber. Hmmm.

GJarrett said:

I'm thinking the same thing. Keep my camber plates and add the SPL arms to increase the camber. Hmmm.

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Just don't adjust too much on the control arm. That being said the change in angles can be calculated with some simple trigonometry. Just measure all the legs with the car at static ride height. The change in the control arm length will give the change in the spindle angle (camber). Won't take much, camber slugs move the top spindle pivot about 3/16" or 4.75 mm. The control arm will need about 6mm to gain about .75 degree. My arm with a 24 mm rod end has 56 mm of engagement into the arm at OEM length. There is sufficient length to take 6mm to move the lower pivot outwards.

steveespo said:

camber slugs move the top spindle pivot

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camber slugs?

Junkyard Dog said:

camber slugs?

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So you can have strut mounts with the upper bolt to the spindle slotted. That allows the upper part of the spindle to tilt in (or out) changing the angle without moving the strut. This move the wheel in at the top adding negative camber. Reduces tire to strut clearance. Good manufacturers, (CorTex) utilize slugs to lock the position by recreating the bolt hole in the offset position. No clearance to allow slip under load.