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S197 2011 Mustang 3.7 Performance Package, Shooting my shot at CAM-C Build Thread Profile - S197 Mustangs

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64
58
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
Florida
Off-season update: November Edition

The 2022 autocross season has came and went, and the mustang is now officially in winter daily mode. That means snow tires, stock rear shocks, pedestrian ceramic brake pads, no more rear wing, and a boring 87 octane tune 😑.

Reflecting this season, I have to say I'm proud of how far we've come. We rebuilt the car after an unfortunate end to the 2021 season, shook it down, tried out a few new mods, hit a couple national tour events, and somehow won the Finger Lake Champ Tour. We never made it to Solo Nats or the CAM challenge, but there is always next year...

That being said, we've got some plans to make the car even more competitive for 2023. Would love to get some feedback and suggestions from the TMO brain trust as we continue to develop the car and prove the viability of the slow pony

As the season progressed, it became evident we need to make a few more suspension adjustments to get the car setup for the Eaton rear end:

1) We need more front grip. The car is sitting with -2.9 degrees of camber, I want to try -3.2 and will slot the struts until I get there. Will continue running the 400lb front springs/Konis as I like the balance of this package for a street car

2) I'd like some more rotation from the rear end. We ran most of the season on Koni Yellows with Factory Boss 302 springs. As much as I liked this setup with the trac-lok rear, it was never consistently fast with the Eaton diff. I'll be reinstalling the freshened up Vi-King double adjustable shocks and playing with rebound/compression settings in the spring

3) In addition, I planning to finally install the Ground Control weight jackers/divorced coil-overs I've had on the shelf for 2 years. I want to try to lower the rear about a half inch to take some rake out of the car and try a heavier spring rate. Thinking 200lbs similar to the cortex setup (IIRC 400F/200R for the "street" setup), but considering 225lbs (also trying to preserve some ride quality). I like the 20mm rear bar so that'll stay for now

4) Might spring for a full corner balance this year to really try and get the car as dialed in as possible


Another issue that is becoming more and more apparent is the power differential between our essentially stock 3.7 and the big v8 cars. This is really on a big factor on extremely long courses like Pocono infield. The way I see it, there are 2 ways to remedy this: A) add more power or B) lose some weight. So we'll be doing both lol. I figure the car has maybe 260whp as it sits with 93 race tune and weighed in at 3457lbs last time I had it on the SCCA scales

Part 1 Power MODS:

1) I picked up a used set of BBK shorty headers locally for $175, and already installed them over a weekend. I know these offer minimal top end gains, but they do improve low-mid range torque (which is something we don't have with 227 cubic inches). Based solely on the seat of the pants, the torque is noticeable on the street, I'm hoping this will help with acceleration out of tighter corners on course

2) Considering the cost vs benefit ratio of having the 2 piece plastic intake manifolds ported. I've spoken to a few places, but $450-600 for a a few hp doesn't really fit the theme of this build. TBD

3) Retune. I love the basemap Ortiz Performance put together for the car, but I actually need to datalog it and get some revisions done to maximize the setup/changes. Might push the redline up past 7500rpm to get a few more MPH in 2nd gear

With a healthy motor and the right mods, these little 3.7's can make 300whp on 93 octane. I don't think my setup will be that strong, but any HP improvement has to help close the gap. Trying to avoid the expense of setting the car up E85 for the time being

Part 2 Weight Reduction Plan, looking to pull 75-100lbs out of the car:

- shorty headers saved -3lbs over the cast iron manifolds

- removed front strut bar -7lbs

- Picked up a set of Flowtech Axlebacks at the Holley garage sale, a steal at $180! The pair weigh 16lbs in total. I've read that the GT500 mufflers currently on the car are ~46lbs. So there's at least -25lbs

-Actually clean out the interior at events (remove F/R floor mats, take out SCT tuner from console, empty glovebox, etc) Has to be good for -5lbs

-Looking at a Deka or Odyssey lightweight battery to run only at National Tour events. Should be good for -15lbs

- Considering switching from a 315 Falken RT660 to a 295 Bridgeston RE71RS which says a 4lb difference per corner. So potentially 16lbs of unsprung weight savings

That alone should get the car below 3400lbs without sacrificing any streetability. Will continue to look for other options to add lightness without spending a ton of money


There's a lot to do and never enough time, but I'll keep amassing parts until spring arrives. In the meanwhile I'm going to attempt building a PC/SIM racing rig to keep sharp in the offseason.

-J
Great update brother. I highly recommend the ported intake. Here’s the trick: port the upper and lowers to match (the real gains are in the lowers).
then get the GT throttle body machined to bolt into the intake, you’ll need a new coupler for your CAI to match to the throttle body. I have an airraid intake so it was the size of the GT throttle body already.
Make sure to get the s197 gen 1 coyote throttle body, the newer ones won’t work.
I can confirm this helps tremendously in the mid and high range. I have shorties too!

bmr motor mounts will save you about 10 lbs. remove the exhaust and axle weights.

I noticed I was running slower towards the end of the season and my clutch failed shortly after. The ram HDX only gave me 2 years of service and about 26k miles. You may feel slow due to a poorly performing clutch. It’s subtle, but it was slipping and slowing me down.
 
IMO, (ignoring the street ride issue, which is shocks as much as anything) keep throwing rear spring at it until it rotates like you want.
I realize it's not the same thing, but with my stock Coyote motor, I feel down on power against even the 2015+ cars and certainly the ZL1 Camaros running at the top. I certainly am down when I run non SCCA and get grouped with cars like JJ's, etc.

Speaking in general terms, when my car is fast, it rotates easily so I can brake early, turn early and get back on the power as early as possible to maximize acceleration (and shorten distance). In reality, we all run about the same tire so we can kind of all put the same power down (setup dependent) so if your lower power and setup allows you to pick up the throttle sooner and more, its faster in the end.

I have set of 295 Bridgestones I am going to test/run at the Allies V Axis tour in December I will report back. A buddy put a set on his Cayman GT4 and they appear to be very good. We can't back to back with Yokohama on that car since Yoks are on perpetual backorder but I can on mine. Even on a 33 degree day, he embarrassed the rest of us pretty handily (he can drive too, its not all tires)

View attachment 81211

DaveW
Very interested to hear how the Stones stack up against the Yoks back to back. Please report back with your findings!

Thinking 225lb springs with the Vikings might be the way to go out in the rear...
 

xr7

TMO Addict?
727
855
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Minnesota
Did the rear spoiler make a noticeable improvement running autocross? Aero is the next area I'm looking at for improved times.
 
Great update brother. I highly recommend the ported intake. Here’s the trick: port the upper and lowers to match (the real gains are in the lowers).
then get the GT throttle body machined to bolt into the intake, you’ll need a new coupler for your CAI to match to the throttle body. I have an airraid intake so it was the size of the GT throttle body already.
Make sure to get the s197 gen 1 coyote throttle body, the newer ones won’t work.
I can confirm this helps tremendously in the mid and high range. I have shorties too!

bmr motor mounts will save you about 10 lbs. remove the exhaust and axle weights.

I noticed I was running slower towards the end of the season and my clutch failed shortly after. The ram HDX only gave me 2 years of service and about 26k miles. You may feel slow due to a poorly performing clutch. It’s subtle, but it was slipping and slowing me down.
Picked up a set of junkyard intakes this weekend to ship out to AMR for porting…. Looking forward to seeing how they perform with an updated tune

Have you put your setup on the dyno?
 
Did the rear spoiler make a noticeable improvement running autocross? Aero is the next area I'm looking at for improved times.
With the rear aero and Koni shocks/rear boss springs, I was very comfortable to pushing the limits of the car this season

Never did back to back testing with/without aero but I can tell you the biggest “seat of the pants” difference was how the car drove in high speed slaloms.

Overall the car is easier to drive and the addition of the rear aero really let me crank up the rear Koni shock rebound. This improved low speed rotation without making the car too edgy in high speed sectors.

Next season I’m looking forward to testing the aero and dialing in the setup with the rear coilovers installed and Viking shocks back on the car
 
Very interested to hear how the Stones stack up against the Yoks back to back. Please report back with your findings!
Remember this is on the practice course, so it may not mean crap. Tomorrow in competition will be more of an indicator..

it was 65-70 degrees today. I took 3 runs on the practice course on the Yokohama. First was a throw away as I found the course itself and knocked rust off my brain after running the last two events in either 60 degree rain on an oil slick lot or 33 degrees.

Second and 3rd were decent with my best being 28.4

I put the Bridgestones on and ran 3 more. First run was terrible with too high of pressure (and sticker tires) Second one was 28.3 and followed up with a 28.1.

3/10 is not insignificant on a short course, but I also did drive one element better in the second set of runs compared to first. The feel is *completely* different between the tires, with the RE having better turn in and feedback. Much better than the shitty Yokohama, but no where near Falken or especially old RE71 levels.

Plan is to run the RE's tomorrow and we will see how it stacks up in actual competition. I am not familiar with all the guys in my class, but I do know Brian Burdette (Evo instructor) and he is generally stinking fast so I have my hands full just competing.

DaveW
 
22
23
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
North Alabama
Are the G-Loc R6 pads fairly street-friendly? I’m looking to do a brake upgrade soon on my car but it is a daily. I’m fine with some dust but don’t want to have a ton of squealing or anything.
 
Are the G-Loc R6 pads fairly street-friendly? I’m looking to do a brake upgrade soon on my car but it is a daily. I’m fine with some dust but don’t want to have a ton of squealing or anything.
I love them for their initial bite and autocross manners but use them as a summer daily pad (April-November). They dust much less than other pads I used previously (Powerstop track day/porterfield R4S), but definitely more than stock. I got them from @OPMustang Tim along with titanium shims and Castrol SRF, couldn't be happier. Give him a call and he'll point you in the right direction.

They do squeak intermittently at low speeds on colder days, but I find the tradeoff to be worth it so far.

Hopefully that's somewhat helpful lol,
J
 
I am also happy with the GLoc R6 for autocross, not sure on the street manners. They never squeak but do seem dusty *but*I don't have a reference on dust since we haven't had a street pad or street driven the car in a long time.

On The RE71RS, they are pretty good. 8th index, 1.4 second class lead. Need to back it up tomorrow. Feedback is better still than Yok's, but not spectacular. I am still playing with pressures, with my stretch fit (295 on 12" wheel) I can apparently go much lower than I would have expected.



318329351_10230336263696348_7418803731262392414_n.jpg

318335062_10230336263616346_2995751643227794566_n.jpg
 
I am also happy with the GLoc R6 for autocross, not sure on the street manners. They never squeak but do seem dusty *but*I don't have a reference on dust since we haven't had a street pad or street driven the car in a long time.

On The RE71RS, they are pretty good. 8th index, 1.4 second class lead. Need to back it up tomorrow. Feedback is better still than Yok's, but not spectacular. I am still playing with pressures, with my stretch fit (295 on 12" wheel) I can apparently go much lower than I would have expected.


Sounds like they are working well for your setup so far. Very nice driving/lines on that run, the car looks very composed and visually the turn-in response of the Re71rs looks pretty sharp in the video. Do you feel like that is more attributable to the sidewall/tire construction or the 295 working particularly well on the 12inch rim?

Watching the sweepers, it looks like the new stones have some pretty solid lateral grip and allow you to really carry mid corner speed. Has me wondering if this tire might strike a balance between the attributes of the RT660 and AO52

Thanks for sharing your results thus far, keep us posted about tomorrow and good luck!

-J
 
22
23
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
North Alabama
I love them for their initial bite and autocross manners but use them as a summer daily pad (April-November). They dust much less than other pads I used previously (Powerstop track day/porterfield R4S), but definitely more than stock. I got them from @OPMustang Tim along with titanium shims and Castrol SRF, couldn't be happier. Give him a call and he'll point you in the right direction.

They do squeak intermittently at low speeds on colder days, but I find the tradeoff to be worth it so far.

Hopefully that's somewhat helpful lol,
J
My stock brembo pads dust pretty good up front (granted I have nothing to compare it to lol) but I don't think I'd mind that too much. I'm down in Alabama so maybe I could pull off running them year round. I'll have to give Tim a call, I've been browsing his website for ARP studs, my OEM stuff keeps galling and seizing lug nuts on.
 
Today was even better. It is hard to entirely draw conclusions on the tires, after all, I have a total of 9 runs on them. My biggest initial thought would be that while they are slightly more responsive and have better feel than the Yoks, the biggest difference is being able to drive with a little slip angle and not drive off the tires. On a day like today (about 75-80 during my heat) on the Yoks, I would have to be very careful to not slip the car too much or the tires would lose feel part way through the runs. The RE71rs seemed to take a little slippage better. I could drive them much more like I can drive the car on Hoosiers.


Obviously, I won CAMC, but I also managed to win the whole damn thing.

1670210077372.png

Video

DaveW
 
Today was even better. It is hard to entirely draw conclusions on the tires, after all, I have a total of 9 runs on them. My biggest initial thought would be that while they are slightly more responsive and have better feel than the Yoks, the biggest difference is being able to drive with a little slip angle and not drive off the tires. On a day like today (about 75-80 during my heat) on the Yoks, I would have to be very careful to not slip the car too much or the tires would lose feel part way through the runs. The RE71rs seemed to take a little slippage better. I could drive them much more like I can drive the car on Hoosiers.


Obviously, I won CAMC, but I also managed to win the whole damn thing.

View attachment 81668

Video

DaveW
Congrats! That is no small feat, I don't remember the last time I saw a CAM car take top pax (we live in the hotbed of STR up here)

Your run looked super smooth and the tires look like they've got plenty of stick. Based on the behaviors of your car in the video (differences in setup notwithstanding), I think you helped me make up my mind about tires for next year.

I wonder if 295 stones on an 18x11 will have the same positive characteristics you're getting on the 18x12?

Regardless saving 4lbs of unsprung weight per corner can't hurt as we try to get below the 3400lb mark

Jealous that y'all still have seat time this time of year. I'm in the process of finishing a computer/driving sim build to attempt to keep sharp in the offseason

Thanks for the data and tire inspiration,
-J
 
This event wasn't exactly local, about 720 miles from my door :) Bill and his son Ryan came down, it has to be well over 1000 miles for them. I am not sure if that 44.3 run was my best ever run, but it was my best ever at a big event, and all 6 runs were the best 6 I have ever put together.

My car turns with any tire on it. I don't like pushy cars, so I make it turn. Everyone who drives it, even miata pussies :) say how nimble it is.

I think the 295 RE would be very good on an 11" wheel. I want to try the 315's if/when they become available, that is still relatively narrow for a 12" wheel. In general, everyone I talk to (who seem to know about such things or have tried it) think that the current crop of 200tw tires prefer being stretched rather than pinched on almost all setups.

DaveW
 
Late Winter 2023 Update:

-After 5,000miles of daily commuting in "winter mode" its time to start putting our plan for the 2023 season into action..The car needs a good cleaning, for so little snow NYC used a TON of salt. I'll try and catch everyone up with some updates, upcoming modifications, and tour planstempImageG59axN.png

Step 1: Driver Mod
Over the course of the offseason I started to build a pretty simple PC/SIM rig with the goal of keeping sharp for the upcoming season. I know nothing of computers, but with the help of some buddies put together a decent setup that meets my needs/space constraints in NYC. Picked up a Moza R5 direct drive wheel and downloaded Asset Corsa which has been a blast.

Additionally purchased a subscription to Beyond Seat Time to try and tighten up the nut behind the wheel. It's been very informative, and being able to test some of the theories/driver skills immediately on the PC rig has been quite rewarding. Bought dad a subscription for the holidays as well, which I hope push his development as a driver as well.
tempImageDFSXeK.pngtempImageKoqVuJ.png
Step 2: "Simplify, then add lightness"

Let's face it.. the 3.7 is never going to touch V8 hp number without forced induction. But that complicates things, is unreliable, and would cost more than the car is worth at this point. We've been fairly successful with a bone stock 3.7 plus a tune, so we are sticking to simple mods to get a little more usable power out of the car. Shopped around to put together a few cheap bolt ons to accentuate the 3.7 (used BBK shorty headers and AMR ported upper/lower intake manifolds). For less than $600 bucks the car should be close to 300whp and have a more usable torque curve after the tune. I doubt I'll ever dyno the setup. Headers are in, but still need to bolt up the intake manifolds

tempImagehIFzLE.png

Since we can't add more power, the next best thing is shaving some pounds. Last season the car was 3457lbs on the SCCA scales at finger lakes without a driver and a little less than half a tank of gas. With the new CAM-C weight rules, we've got a long way to go. I still daily the car, so all weight reduction mods cannot compromise daily comfort/safety. We are expecting our first child in July, so the mustang will be pulling TRIPLE duty as daily commuter, racer, and part time baby hauler 😅

Last week, I started the process by removing close to 40lbs from the car. I scored a dirt cheap set of Flowtech axle backs at the Holley summer clearance sale to replace the gt500 suitcase mufflers. $180 bucks for the pair and we pulled 20lbs off the rear of the car, doesn't get much better than that! I also took out the factory strut tower brace (-7lbs for free) and the BBK shorties netted us another 1lb of weight savings vs the cast iron manifolds.
Screen Shot 2023-03-11 at 2.12.14 PM.pngScreen Shot 2023-03-11 at 2.13.47 PM.pngScreen Shot 2023-03-11 at 2.11.36 PM.png

The biggest upgrade (and most expensive) was a new aluminum driveshaft from axle-exchange in NJ. I can't believe how pricey Driveshaft Shop has gotten recently, $1000+ for a driveshaft was too hard to justify on a budget build. So I went local, spoke the owner of Axle-Exchange (Mark), and worked out a deal for an upgraded 3.5 inch 1-piece driveshaft at a great price. I always try to support local business when I can, but it didn't hurt that I saved $300+ over DSS. Cannot recommend them enough, definitely check them out if you are in the market for a new driveshaft. https://axle-exchange.com

Factory Driveshaft was 28lbs, new aluminum setup is 18.2lbs. Close to another 10lbs of rotating mass on the driveline. In conjunction with the RAM lightweight flywheel, the car is SNAPPY!
Screen Shot 2023-03-11 at 2.15.12 PM.pngScreen Shot 2023-03-11 at 2.14.50 PM.png
We've pulled close to 40lbs with minimal trade offs. I have a few other budget weight reduction mods in the works, hoping to get closer to pulling 100lbs out of the car.

Tomorrow (provided the weather holds up), I'm going to try and tackle the rear Ground Control coil-over install and put the Viking doubles back in. Autocross brakes go in the weekend after, and we should be good to go for the NNJR season opener on March 25th

I've got more maintenance/mods in the works and the car will slowly evolve as we approach the NNJR Pro Solo in June.

Stay tuned for more
-J
 
Spring update 23 update

Have 2 events under my belt this year and the rust is finally starting to wear off, but will circle back to this later in the post.

The second part of de-winterizing the car and prepping to for competition use was focused around brakes and rear suspension install.

Step 1)Re-install the GLOC r6 pads, OP Mustang Titanium shims, and high carbon rotors. Checked the wheel bearings for play as well as the torque on the wheel nuts. Uneventful...

Step 2) Rear suspension install. Finally got around to installing the rear Ground Control weight jackers with 10 inch 225lb rear springs. These were supplemented with newly refreshed ViKing Berserker double adjustable shocks and additional trimming of the Ford Performance jounce kit. Install and setup was very tedious, thankfully using my fathers Quick Jack sped things up quite bit during the adjustment phase of install. I was fortunate enough to get my hands on a set of Cortex install/setup instructions from a local racer, this made adjustment fairly straightforward. Everything is roughly setup to the best of my abilities on the driveway, but will get it further refined with a corner balanced alignment in a few weeks

Two surprises from the rear coiler install: The GC/ViKing combo are 2lbs lighter per corner, so another 4lbs of weight savings. Secondly, the car rides pretty damn well with the new suspension setup, even on the infamous Cross Bronx Expressway I commute on daily.

At this point, I felt confident enough in the prep process to take the car out to a few events on leftover tires (140+ run Falken Rt660s). Event #1 was run as a single drive with MotorSports NorthEast on a fairly cold/damp Sunday. The Falkens were not happy with cold/single driver heat, but overall the car felt pretty well balanced with the new setup. Left the rear shocks dialed down around 3 clicks of compression and 5 clicks rebound to start. Even so the car rotated very well once I remembered the #1 rule of driving this car (ALWAYS BE EARLY!).

One noticeable problem was I could NOT get the car to hook in 1st gear, had a TON of wheelspin from the passenger side rear not only on the dig but also on the first acceleration zone. Idk if this is from the newfound "torque" from the shorty headers, roughed-in rear end settings (not perfectly centered axle, no adjustment for pinion angle, etc) or from the old/cold tires, or a characteristic of Truetrac diff

In response I bumped the rear rebound settings to 7 clicks which helped somewhat but did not resolve the problem. At least there was no wheel hop..
View recent photos.jpeg
Second event was with NNJR SCCA, running two drivers and the same old Falkens. The car was pretty awesome with the exception of the showcase sweeper, which turned out to be one of 2 course read errors by myself. Finally figured it out on the last run, and according to the SoloStorm data I had made up over a half second in these two sectors. Unfortunately I didn't account for how much faster the car would be on corner exit and overshot the final 180 before the finish... My 7th run with driver errors in the slalom entry/showcase was good enough for 2nd in CAM and 35th in Pax out of 94


Still have a large to-do list to fully prep the car including: ported intake install, catalog/retune, slot the front struts/corner balance, bleed the brakes, more weight reduction, etc

Next event is Sunday on FRESH RUBBER! I've ordered the 295 RE71RS for tour events but will be doing some ill conceived multi-tire testing for local events. 315/30/18 RT660's up front and 295/35/18 AO52's in the rear on 18x11 Apex wheels. This will be interesting to say the least!
 
Multi-tire setup was a success!

Against popular opinion, we tried running two different tire compounds for this past weekends autocross. Ran a set of low run 315/30/18 Falken RT660s on 18x11 Apex wheels (~40 runs) up front with a fresh set of 295/35/18 Yokohama A052s in the rear.

thoughts behind the decision:
-even with 2 drivers it’s hard to get heat in the rear tires on our lowly 3.7 pony
- larger OD of the taller yoko would net a couple extra RPM in 2nd gear
- softer rear rubber might Make it easier to put down the power
-295/35/18 yokos were dirt cheap at ~$650 for the pair 😉
-stiffer sidewalls/wider track of Falkens help turn in
- lighter Yokohamas could help acceleration

We tested this setup on Lot E at MetLife (same locale as the NJ Prosolo in June), and I can’t believe how different the car felt from the week before. Not only was the car more composed, but the tire setup made the rear end incredibly controllable. The different tire characteristics took a few runs to get a handle on, but the results spoke for themselves

1st in CAM
25th raw
34th pax

caught a late cone on my last run which was .4 seconds quicker and only would’ve increased my standings amongst a very Pro heavy crowd


Looking forward to some more testing in 2 weeks, hoping to find some time to bolt up the ported intakes and get a retune beforehand

-J
 
End of June update:

Unfortunately we have not been racing as much as we hoped due to weather/scheduling up here in the NorthEast (weather cancellations, the whole Taylor Swift thing, and the NJ/NY State Fairs being in town). That being said, the couple of times we have been out with the car have been a mixed bag.

When the car is good, it's really good. Running with a local club (MSNE), the car was able to take 1st in class and 3rd in PAX. IT was a BLAST to drive. A photographer at the event was out taking some pictures and got some incredible shots of the car in action_DSC9036.jpg
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Back at the beginning of June we were fortunate enough to run the NJ Prosolo. CAM was well populated, with the Peachey brothers and their Viper being the favorites heading into the event. Even with the freshly installed ported intake manifolds, we had the least HP in the field by far and knew that the drag-style starts would not be in our favor.

Getting the car ready for the event was a battle to say the least... 2 days beforehand one of the stock hydraulic control arm bushings decided to explode on my commute to work. I frantically swapped in a fresh set of Motorcraft control arms the night before the event and eyeballed the alignment. On the drive through NYC to the event our freshly bleed brakes/bleeders started weeping despite being torqued to spec... Finally we've been having trouble getting a good tune dialed in since the intake manifold change, this on top of cam position sensor issues has been a PITA that inconsistently throws the car into limp mode. Regardless, we got the car sorted the best we could and took our shot at the Prosolo with our silly multi-tire setup

Pleasant Surprises:
-Car ran pretty hard with more power up top
-We were able to consistently cut 2.1xx 60ft times
-Had .501 light on the right course
-Day 2 setup adjustments worked fairly well

Problems:
-Unseasonably cold weather did not work with our settings, and a ProSolo leaves no time to make adjustments
-the car was super pushy with cold Falkens up front
-I made a driver error and missed a run on the left course in the AM on day 1
-Never got a real good read on the right course


The result:
-5th place finish, .3 seconds out of the trophies. Not the result we wanted, but running a ProSolo is about the most fun you can have autocrossing so its hard to be upset about it lol

-Car weighed in at 3600lbs with driver and a half tank of gas, so figure 3400 without driver. Not great given the new ruleset for CAM (120lbs over minimum weight) but not terrible either

The car is really prepared more in line with last years rules, so I'll have to make some tough choices about which direction I want to head with weight reduction/aero before the CAM Challenge/Solo Nats in Spring

Hoping to have some more content before Finger Lakes Champ Tour in July, but all thats dependent on when my firstborn arrives. We will see lol

-J
 

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