2022 Mach 1 owners Mobil 1 oil recomendation warning!

[6 Bolt]

Mobil 1 lists 5w20 oil for the 2022 Mach 1's this is wrong and could void your warranty!
ALL 2021-2023 Mach 1's take 10 quarts of 5w30
I notified them 3 times over the past 3 months and they have still not updated their 2022 Mach 1 oil viscosity discrepancy!

 

[TMSBOSS]

The best source for what oil to use is the manufacturer. They “Own” the engine until the warranty runs out. Adding the wrong oil can cause the warranty to run out instantly.

 

[1MeanZ]

10Qts? I didn't realize the Mach 1s had a different oil capacity? do the 18+ plastic pans hold that much more?

 

[6 Bolt]

10Qts? I didn't realize the Mach 1s had a different oil capacity? do the 18+ plastic pans hold that much more?

Mach 1's also have an external factory oil cooler.

 

[k_z]

2018s+ hold 10qt per manual in a reality need 10.5qt to show full on a dipstick.

 

[JDee]

The best source for what oil to use is the manufacturer. They “Own” the engine until the warranty runs out. Adding the wrong oil can cause the warranty to run out instantly.

This.
For the first time ever I am taking the new car to the dealer for oil changes and following the manual for oil change intervals for track use. And aside from track wheels/tires and camber plates, the car is going to be left stock.

 

[Bill Pemberton]

Of course you will change to better pads, use better brake fluids, and a few minor things, but the Mach is super solid with very few upgrades.

2 items I would suggest is the Vorshlag brake duct plate for each A arm up front, because running Mosport you do run really fast and braking from high speed will heat up those rotors and calipers. Second, do consider getting an MGW short throw shifter in the future , as good as the factory shifter is on the Tremec, there is a very noticeable difference. No need to do much with the car, it is set up quite well.

 

[JDee]

Mosport is not hard on brakes, anyone who says it is needs to learn to drive the track correctly. It is a very fast momentum track with only 1 slow corner and even it is not hard on brakes because the braking zone is very steep uphill.
My Mach 1 came with air deflector plates for the brakes on it from the factory. I had Vorshlag deflectors on the 2016 car plus additional duct hoses from the bumper. That was way overkill for Mosport, but worked well for Shannonville which is slower and twisty and harder on brakes. I see no need for an aftermarket shifter, having persevered with the MT82 for many years the Tremec is light years better in most respects.
Just so you know Bill, I started real racing in 1988, and am the owner of many championship trophies. Been around Mosport many many thousand times. Even raced on the Grand Prix circuit at Montreal one year, which was neat because we ran right before the F1 cars and the grandstands were packed.

 

[Bill Pemberton]

Oh I knew you were a hot shoe because we are about the same age, I just found that the big Vorshlag A arm brake deflectors helped me a bunch , but it was more noticeable on tracks similar to Shannonville. I do tend to brake quite late and those big slabs of aluminum did help plenty. I agree the Tremec 3160 is a huge improvement but if you ever have a chance to try the MGW you may reconsider. After playing on tracks and autocrosses since 1981 I am surprised at how much better George's set up is. Loved the balance on the Mach when I had it and you will be really pleased with the Apex wheels and big rubber when you get them this year. Stay warm.

 

[bnight]

This.
For the first time ever I am taking the new car to the dealer for oil changes and following the manual for oil change intervals for track use. And aside from track wheels/tires and camber plates, the car is going to be left stock.

that motorcraft (Castrol) oil is solid for race track

 

[JDee]

@bnight
Thank you! Good to know.

 

[JDee]

So my 2023 Mach 1 owners manual specs 5W50 for track usage and it says oil change after 1 track weekend or every 4 hours of track use.

 

[bnight]

So my 2023 Mach 1 owners manual specs 5W50 for track usage and it says oil change after 1 track weekend or every 4 hours of track use.

I personally use the standard 5W20 and change 3 times a season so around 2000-3000 km's between changes and a few track days though I do think 5W50 will probably be better.

 

[JDee]

I personally use the standard 5W20 and change 3 times a season so around 2000-3000 km's between changes and a few track days though I do think 5W50 will probably be better.

What RPMs are you turning? If you're not redlining every shift then you might be OK, but even at that I would not use 5W20 on track, in my 2016 I used 5W30. I figured a little more viscosity would provide more protection especially on hot days. Start up wear would be worse with 5W30, but only marginally. That car was never winter driven or used as a daily driver so I felt the trade off was worth it.
I am going to follow the Ford guidelines with the Mach 1 and am even going to get the service done at the Ford dealer. That way there can be no issue of not following the manual if the engine takes a dump.

 

[bnight]

What RPMs are you turning? If you're not redlining every shift then you might be OK, but even at that I would not use 5W20 on track, in my 2016 I used 5W30. I figured a little more viscosity would provide more protection especially on hot days. Start up wear would be worse with 5W30, but only marginally. That car was never winter driven or used as a daily driver so I felt the trade off was worth it.
I am going to follow the Ford guidelines with the Mach 1 and am even going to get the service done at the Ford dealer. That way there can be no issue of not following the manual if the engine takes a dump.

My car is stock Gen 2 so the red line is 6850 I think I usually do 6600-6700 RPM shifts and my CHT reaches as high as 240F at hot summer days. This will be my 6th season with the car and so far I turned over 47 000 km's with the car and have 16 track hours and 1408 km's on track (874 miles). All the time I was running oil changes with Motorcraft 5W20. And last season my motor was putting healthy 376 WHP on the dyno (EU spec cars are detuned to 420 hp from factory).

 

[JDee]

My car is stock Gen 2 so the red line is 6850 I think I usually do 6600-6700 RPM shifts and my CHT reaches as high as 240F at hot summer days. This will be my 6th season with the car and so far I turned over 47 000 km's with the car and have 16 track hours and 1408 km's on track (874 miles). All the time I was running oil changes with Motorcraft 5W20. And last season my motor was putting healthy 376 WHP on the dyno (EU spec cars are detuned to 420 hp from factory).

Right.
I had Ford's Power Pack 2 kit on that car which consisted of a new air intake with open top airbox, a bigger GT350 throttle body and a new tune. The tune they supplied raised the red line to 7250. I did use that red line for a while, but it just didn't do a hell of a lot for lap times vs shifting at 6500-6750 so I mostly used 6750 at most. Fuel consumption was noticeably better using the lower red line, and lap times were within a fraction of a second. I've never dyno'd that car, I just figured it made whatever it made and left it at that. The worst part was that the dealer wouldn't touch it with that kit on it, claimed that their equipment couldn't read the codes with that tune in it. Kinda funny that a Ford dealer wouldn't be able to read a Ford Performance supplied tune, but what do I know?
One other thing to watch for, when I got onto slicks the car was generating enough G force that I got oil pressure drops in the last corner of a right - left - right series of linked corners. It would go down to 15-20 on the last corner, which is definitely not good. So I got a 10 quart Moroso road race pan that was fully baffled installed and that fixed the problem.

 

[Bill Pemberton]

I like the thoughts from JDee and bnight, and I know on my Mach 1 I changed the oil after 2 or three track weekends and some town driving. I have done this on virtually every track car and race car I have owned and with frequent oil changes I have been blessed with no oil usage on almost every car owned and tracked. The Mach 1 oil level never dropped even a little and the oil looked as clean coming out as when put in.

Over the years watching folks bring their cars into the shop ( when I was selling at Woodhouse Chrysler. Dodge , Jeep , Ram and Woodhouse Ford) for track prep or mods we were always amazed at the color of the oil coming out of vehicles. That simple safeguard of changing the oil more frequently when driven hard or tracked was often bypassed. Bnight's example above should give folks a tangible and personal result of how to extend engine life -- change that fluid often, along with rear diff fluid, brake fluid , and even tranny fluid ( probably later than the others , but way sooner than the Manufacturer's recommended schedule ).

 

[bnight]

Right.
I had Ford's Power Pack 2 kit on that car which consisted of a new air intake with open top airbox, a bigger GT350 throttle body and a new tune. The tune they supplied raised the red line to 7250. I did use that red line for a while, but it just didn't do a hell of a lot for lap times vs shifting at 6500-6750 so I mostly used 6750 at most. Fuel consumption was noticeably better using the lower red line, and lap times were within a fraction of a second. I've never dyno'd that car, I just figured it made whatever it made and left it at that. The worst part was that the dealer wouldn't touch it with that kit on it, claimed that their equipment couldn't read the codes with that tune in it. Kinda funny that a Ford dealer wouldn't be able to read a Ford Performance supplied tune, but what do I know?
One other thing to watch for, when I got onto slicks the car was generating enough G force that I got oil pressure drops in the last corner of a right - left - right series of linked corners. It would go down to 15-20 on the last corner, which is definitely not good. So I got a 10 quart Moroso road race pan that was fully baffled installed and that fixed the problem.

I actually got a Power Pack 3 just a few days ago. As long as I can read the codes I don't honestly care if my dealer can or can't read the codes. I hope to see noticeable improvements in lap times with that 7500 rpm red line if not for anything else but for the saved upshift to 5th. Will continue to use the 5W20 as my track will be closed for restructure in summer anyway. I agree on the G topic though. Ether way the 5W20 is solid chose for the early cars newer are 5W30 and Ford School cars were supplied with a lot of 5W50.