A funny thing happened to my brakes at the race track

[ArizonaBOSS]

Sal, for my own curiosity, please send me a photo of the back side of the rotor when you end up taking the system off.

From what I can surmise from distant photos, Baer does not use elongated holes in the disc for the connection between disc and hat. Just curious to confirm this or not.

Also: That sucks that there is no solution proposed that really works other than a wholesale brand-switch, but you have all the info you need to get that done.

 

[Fabman]

Sal, for my own curiosity, please send me a photo of the back side of the rotor when you end up taking the system off.

From what I can surmise from distant photos, Baer does not use elongated holes in the disc for the connection between disc and hat. Just curious to confirm this or not.

Also: That sucks that there is no solution proposed that really works other than a wholesale brand-switch, but you have all the info you need to get that done.

You are correct, the holes are round.


**From the Baer website:

 

[Fabman]

What is the possibility that the ears on the spindle that the calipers attach to have somehow bent?


Has that ever happened?


That is the last car related component that I can think of that could be related...


I am STILL (as of a few moments ago) hearing that its my car that's the problem....

 

[VoodooBoss]

What is the possibility that the ears on the spindle that the calipers attach to have somehow bent?


Has that ever happened? T

I say it's possible. From your video it's clear the caliper is binding so that brings into question the spindle or caliper. Check both the spindle and caliper mounting tabs to make sure they are flat and square.

 

[captdistraction]

do the pads install pretty cleanly without drag/bind (from the sides vs caliper body)? Forgive if this is answered elsewhere, just curious still on the current config.

 

[Grant 302]

Sorry to hear your problems continue and see the lack of support from Baer.

Is it easy to retract the pistons by hand with the caliper off? And with the hydraulic system closed?

Seems like something is getting mechanically wedged-in. Obviously, pads should get knocked back easily with the rotor turning.

 

[Fabman]

do the pads install pretty cleanly without drag/bind (from the sides vs caliper body)? Forgive if this is answered elsewhere, just curious still on the current config.

Yes, we sanded the pads to the point they just fall out when you pull the caliper. (see video)

 

[Fabman]

Sorry to hear your problems continue and see the lack of support from Baer.

Is it easy to retract the pistons by hand with the caliper off? And with the hydraulic system closed?

Seems like something is getting mechanically wedged-in. Obviously, pads should get knocked back easily with the rotor turning.

Okay, I have determined that its likely in the alignment of the caliper.
I put the caliper on a rotor that is not connected to the car and it releases perfectly.
So somewhere between the spindle and the caliper, something is not straight.
My guess is either the brackets or the tabs on the spindle (which is less likely), so I'm betting on the brackets that adapt the caliper to the spindle. I checked them on a surface plate (see video) and they are not 100% square, though they are very close. I can't image this little bit of misalignment is enough to jamb things up but I have to follow the evidence.

 

[Grant 302]

Maybe they could get you a new set of brackets.

 

[TMSBOSS]

Sorry.

Can't blame you.

Bad customer support is unexcusable.

In the Internet age, bad support is extremely toxic.

Let's hope we soon hear the pop when they remove their brain housing group from their fourth point of contact.

Good luck.

 

[Fabman]

They are offering me the Baer Extremes at a ridiculously low price.
That setup is way more robust.
I am considering it.

 

[VoodooBoss]

I should of thought of this sooner. Give Kenny Brown a call. I can't remember his tech guys name but he's very knowledgeable and he might have some insight on your situation. Of course ask Kenny if he answers.

http://store.kennybrown.com/category/catalog/05-13-mustang/braking

 

[Fabman]

Okay, here's the latest:
Baer made me an offer I couldn't refuse on their flagship "Extreme plus" Monoblock setup and I went for it.
(Bigger pads-Thicker rotors) Pad Type: D1247 (also known as DR11)

Now I am shopping for pads and both Pagid RST2 and Hawk DTC 70 are in the $450.00 neighborhood which I thought was kind of a lot for a set of pads. (fronts only) I have heard of some liking the Raybestos pads which are almost half the price...


Anybody else got a favorite pad that's a little more reasonable cost wise?

 

[kcbrown]

I'd be more curious about the price of pads for other racing setups. If the cost difference is enough and you'll be tracking the car often enough, that difference may well justify going with some other (initially) more expensive caliper setup in order to save money in the long run. But if the price you're seeing for pads for this setup is in the same ballpark as for other racing setups, then there'd be no advantage to going with anything else (assuming these end up working for you).


(Sent with Tapatalk, so apologies for the lackluster formatting)

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

Probably has to do with the pad shape.

PFC11s and 13s for my calipers are $550 while Hawk DTC70s are like $255 in the same 26mm thickness.

You can do a lookup here from a few different brands since you know the shape (you may need to translate these into the manufacturer's shape designations)
https://www.topbrakes.com/c/item-selector/?category_id=2

 

[Mad Hatter]

Okay, here's the latest:
Baer made me an offer I couldn't refuse on their flagship "Extreme plus" Monoblock setup and I went for it.
(Bigger pads-Thicker rotors) Pad Type: D1247 (also known as DR11)

Now I am shopping for pads and both Pagid RST2 and Hawk DTC 70 are in the $450.00 neighborhood which I thought was kind of a lot for a set of pads. (fronts only) I have heard of some liking the Raybestos pads which are almost half the price...


Anybody else got a favorite pad that's a little more reasonable cost wise?

I would ask Pete about the RST-3 pads, They had a much more manageable price tag. thats the next pad I will be buying

 

[Fabman]

I would ask Pete about the RST-3 pads, They had a much more manageable price tag. thats the next pad I will be buying

RS14 is what's being recommended as a substitute: They are only $360.00.
I just had a little sticker shock is all.


I keep going back to: "They aren't paying us to race like we did in stockcars-this is all negative cash flow."
So, 450.00 pads just seemed like a lot to put on a $3500.00 set of brakes that might burn up in one day.


What do we think of the RS-14's....anyone?

 

[Fabman]

I would ask Pete about the RST-3 pads, They had a much more manageable price tag. thats the next pad I will be buying

RST3's are 396.00 (Ugh...a Chevy number)

 

[Mad Hatter]

I know what you mean! Did not try the RS14 and I have the RST-2 right now and I was about to buy more pads when I saw I still have lots of pad left (will be the RST-3 because of price). My buddies with the hawks have their pads last less then 50% then my Pagids..... probably not even 50%, I think they never make is past four track days with the Hawks.

right now looking to squeeze every penny I can to keep the car going in 2017

 

[Fabman]

I know what you mean! Did not try the RS14 and I have the RST-2 right now and I was about to buy more pads when I saw I still have lots of pad left (will be the RST-3 because of price). My buddies with the hawks have their pads last less then 50% then my Pagids..... probably not even 50%, I think they never make is past four track days with the Hawks.

right now looking to squeeze every penny I can to keep the car going in 2017

SO, YOU'RE GETTING 8 TRACK DAYS OUT OF A SET OF RST2'S?