The Mustang Forum for Track & Racing Enthusiasts

Taking your Mustang to an open track/HPDE event for the first time? Do you race competitively? This forum is for you! Log in to remove most ads.

  • Welcome to the Ford Mustang forum built for owners of the Mustang GT350, BOSS 302, GT500, and all other S550, S197, SN95, Fox Body and older Mustangs set up for open track days, road racing, and/or autocross. Join our forum, interact with others, share your build, and help us strengthen this community!

A funny thing happened to my brakes at the race track

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Fabman

Dances with Racecars
6,556
8,208
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
blacksheep-1 said:
IMO, heat soak, the same thing got Roush in trouble a few years ago, came into the pits after running it hard, went out and nailed the wall.
OOooh....walls. No thank you.
 

Fabman

Dances with Racecars
6,556
8,208
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
blacksheep-1 said:
IMO, heat soak, the same thing got Roush in trouble a few years ago, came into the pits after running it hard, went out and nailed the wall.
That's kind of what I figured, all that heat and no way to dissipate it.
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
Fabman said:
Can't just pedal pump it like i have been doing?
I did notice that my pressure bleeder doesn't work on this car.
I used to have a cool vacuum bleeder that worked killer back in the day. I wonder if that would work here?

All and any of those should work for everything but the ABS 'block' part of the system. Not for the electric module itself, but for the 'block'/manifold part where all the hydraulic lines go into.
 

ArizonaBOSS

Because racecar.
Moderator
8,730
2,734
Arizona, USA
Fabman said:
I am ordering the module today, but what's different about this dist block?

From what I've been told, the controller module won't bolt up unless you have an 07+ GT500 ABS distribution block. It won't mate to a "regular" 05-09 Mustang GT ABS distribution block (until the GT500 and Mustang GT distribution blocks became "unified" under a single PN in 2011 (might extend to MY2010), but these use a different PN controller anyways).

For "best" performance you will probably want to switch to the 07-09 GT500 master and booster too.

Here is a little more info on the FR500S side of things: https://performanceparts.ford.com/download/PDFS/FR500/Parts_Info_FR500S_v1.pdf (Note that "ECU" under brake section is what I am referring to as the "controller")

Here is the full parts listing from TMS: https://www.yumpu.com/en/document/view/50107790/fr500s-master-parts-list-the-mustang-source-ford-mustang-forums
 

Fabman

Dances with Racecars
6,556
8,208
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
Well, first the bad news:
Everything is melted and cracked. Pads, rotors and calipers. Doubt I'll save much besides the rims and tires.
Now for the good news.....oh wait, there isn't any good news :'(
 
Wow that is one expensive red flag for you. This is a good reminder to take the "cool down" lap seriously.
 

Fabman

Dances with Racecars
6,556
8,208
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
VoodooBOSS said:
Wow that is one expensive red flag for you. This is a good reminder to take the "cool down" lap seriously.
Well, I certainly won't do THAT again.....but a red flag is a red flag. You stop.
In oval track you can see the whole track so you know where the wreck is....here I had no idea and didn't want to plow into somebody.....next time I'll just hit 'em.
 

Fabman

Dances with Racecars
6,556
8,208
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
TMSBOSS said:
Were you running titanium shims between the pads and Pistons?

The 1mm shims I run helps keep the heat away from the caliper seals, brake fluid and dust covers.
no but I've seen them in some passenger cars. Where do you get them?
 

TMSBOSS

Spending my pension on car parts and track fees.
7,559
5,294
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Illinois
KNS, sponsor vender here. I bought from Girodisc before KNS listed the shims.

They do help considerably but you need to watch rotor and pad thickness. With DBA rotors and new pads, I have to break in the pads befor I can add both shims. With Girodisc rotors the shins slide right in.
 

Mad Hatter

Gotta go Faster
5,256
4,250
Santiago, Chile
Could it be a issue with the Baer brakes?? I was looking at a set a while back but was advised that they are more of a street setup?

Sent from my SM-G900M using Tapatalk
 

ArizonaBOSS

Because racecar.
Moderator
8,730
2,734
Arizona, USA
Fabman said:
Well, first the bad news:
Everything is melted and cracked. Pads, rotors and calipers. Doubt I'll save much besides the rims and tires.
Now for the good news.....oh wait, there isn't any good news :'(

Damn!

What setup were you running? If you weren't yet on Brembos, you should be able to find an upgrade setup fairly inexpensively from OEM stock, Wilwood, StopTech, or Brembo Race, depending on how much money you want to spend.
 

Fabman

Dances with Racecars
6,556
8,208
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
ArizonaBOSS said:
Damn!

What setup were you running? If you weren't yet on Brembos, you should be able to find an upgrade setup fairly inexpensively from OEM stock, Wilwood, StopTech, or Brembo Race, depending on how much money you want to spend.
14" Baer 6 piston Pro + and DTC 60 pads. I am surprised how quickly they melted, the other 2 cars stopped in the same place as I did and I assume their brakes didn't melt? Sure I have more MPH and I'm heavier so of course it's harder on brakes, but that just means that just tells me I'm too close to the failure threshold and they aren't up to the task.
I mean, 2 laps?
I need to figure out where to go from here. I notice you didn't mention Baer in your recommendations....
 

Fabman

Dances with Racecars
6,556
8,208
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
Mad Hatter said:
Could it be a issue with the Baer brakes?? I was looking at a set a while back but was advised that they are more of a street setup?

Sent from my SM-G900M using Tapatalk
This may be an issue....I will be on the phone with Baer today.
 

ArizonaBOSS

Because racecar.
Moderator
8,730
2,734
Arizona, USA
Fabman said:
I notice you didn't mention Baer in your recommendations....

To be honest, I don't see their kits out in real competition anywhere (save for the K&N #32 AI build, which the driver was complaining of brake fade issues on a short track out here in AZ) and I've never been impressed with what you get for the money. IMO their kits are just "bling" and consumable replacement costs are on-par with more proven setups--so you're paying the same but getting less performance.

Wilwood, StopTech, Brembo are all race-proven setups. I'd recommend the Brembo Race kit if you have unlimited $$$; but you will be able to find capable hardware from any of those manufuacturers.
 
Damn, that blows dude. Glad you figured it out and it didn't end up worse during the rest of your track time this weekend.

+1 for titanium shims, I have them on my Boss and also got them from Girodisc (KNS was out of stock when I ordered them). I haven't had install issues with pad thickness running Pagid RST2 front pads.
 

Fabman

Dances with Racecars
6,556
8,208
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
mprichar87 said:
Damn, that blows dude. Glad you figured it out and it didn't end up worse during the rest of your track time this weekend.

+1 for titanium shims, I have them on my Boss and also got them from Girodisc (KNS was out of stock when I ordered them). I haven't had install issues with pad thickness running Pagid RST2 front pads.
Could have been worse, I could have run into the back of your new car!
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
Fabman said:
Well, first the bad news:
Everything is melted and cracked. Pads, rotors and calipers. Doubt I'll save much besides the rims and tires.
Now for the good news.....oh wait, there isn't any good news :'(

Damn. I was afraid of that when I mentioned going through everything. Nowhere for the heat to go at a dead stop. Pulling a car down from 140+ would probably get spot temps up well over 1,000º F. Might even be prudent to have your hubs and struts checked. They really don't like that kind of heat exposure. And I've baked grease right out of the front hubs before.

And +1 on the titanium shims. They really do help insulate all the seals and fluid.
 

TMO Supporting Vendors

Latest posts

Buy TMO Apparel

Buy TMO Apparel
Top