The Mustang Forum for Track & Racing Enthusiasts

Taking your Mustang to an open track/HPDE event for the first time? Do you race competitively? This forum is for you! Log in to remove most ads.

  • Welcome to the Ford Mustang forum built for owners of the Mustang GT350, BOSS 302, GT500, and all other S550, S197, SN95, Fox Body and older Mustangs set up for open track days, road racing, and/or autocross. Join our forum, interact with others, share your build, and help us strengthen this community!

AUTO-BLiP Install and Calibration Info for the S550/GT350

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

1,041
1,091
Monaca Pa
ea5d7bab-3f1a-43be-b029-86351ea932ce-jpeg.jpg

This is how I did it. So much easier than lying on your back
 
Alright, I did the install. Here are a few thoughts.
1. jeffV8 has the right idea about just pulling down the connectors to the floor. I cannot imagine trying to do this by just disconnecting them. The push pins holding the wiring harness are all easy to pull out with a little bit of force.
2. Only the clutch connector cannot be brought down to the floor. But it is on the left side, so easy to access even though it will only hang down a little.
3. Speaking of the clutch, I managed to dislodge the clutch engagement plunger. Took me forever to try and get it back into place. Super easy to clip back in once you figure out how it goes. Recommend to take pics of it before starting so you have a reference in case you do what I did and it ends up on the floor at some point.
4. I put the AB in the sunglasses holder. The way the AB wiring is set up, it looks like it assumes you will come from the right side of the car and not left. That makes running the wires a little more tricky as you kind of double back on the AB wiring once you get the gas pedal hooked up. Also makes trying to figure out where to run the AB wiring (over or under things) a little bit of trial and error. Good news is plenty of length to be able to double back.
5. With the limited space and the seat still in, getting the cables zip tied was a PITA.
6. Posi-taps worked very well. Get the 20-22 gauge ones. Red with grey (not red with black).
7. Easiest part was AB calibration. Just follow instructions.
8. Not sure I like that the AB default is ON whenever the car starts. Being in the sunglasses holder it is not something I will see and remember to turn OFF each time I start the car. I put it in the lowest setting and hopefully I will not notice it is on.

Without the issue with the clutch engagement plunger, probably would have been a little over 2 hours to do the install. Looking forward to trying it out on the track in a couple of weeks. Next up is trying to figure out the right settings for the delay and duration when hustling around the track.
 
Nice write up. 8. The AB does not have a default of being on. The button is a toggle between on and off and does not reset when you start the car. Make sure it’s off before turning off the car. The light should not be on.

I will check. The instructions say "The unit will default to the ON state upon power up." I was just going off of that and had not tested yet. Hopefully if will default to the last position.
 

Wingrider

'11 GT500, 99% Track Car. Lots of mods & I coach
Here are the red Posi-Taps I ordered and used for my install- just for future folks as a resource. (Amazon link) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ESCQ9EQ/

I did order different sizes, but I think the fit on these was spot on as one of the clutch wires is a little smaller than the other 5 under there and wanted a a nice push fit of the wire(s) into the u shaped threaded piece.

I will say I did open up the backside of the threaded barrel pieces by hand with a drill bit (a minuscule amount) so the barrel would more easily slide over the insulation on the AB side. It's probably optional to do that. and I was removing any issue with getting them to thread in once I was all twisted up "Cirque du Soleil" style under the dash with my feet resting on the top of the roll bar.

I've run into a config issue that has me dead in the water after what seems like a clean install. I've emailed Andres about it and hope to hear back soon. I'd "@" him here but don't know what his username is.
 
Last edited:

Wingrider

'11 GT500, 99% Track Car. Lots of mods & I coach
First rule of Blip club is- RTFM. I heard from Andres and was able to sort out that the configuration issue was a bum throttle wire connection. The unit was blinking "blip" repeatedly after the calibration and I *thought* that means done. It was saying throttle wire problem. (Basic reading would have helped me here.) Went back under and reseated the 2 wires all over again from scratch and all good. Recalibration ended with the as expected solid red status light on the unit and 2 test blips were successful. Pilot error on my side and Andres was super helpful and detailed in what to do and possible next steps after that. I can also confirm it toggles power so it can be full off on start up.

I'll be out annoying the neighbors tomorrow morning blipping away.
 
For anyone that's installed this and used it extensively, how are you fairing when the need to downshift multiple gears comes into play? For example going 5 - 4, 4 - 3 and 3 - 2.

I've set mine up in such a way that 5 - 4 and 4 - 3 downshifts are smooth, but everytime I go 3 - 2 it's always jerky and clunky. I tried playing with the intensity setting but it only seemd to make it worse, and at that point it screwed up the other 2 downshifts. Is there no perfect setting for all downshifts or am I doing something wrong?
 

Wingrider

'11 GT500, 99% Track Car. Lots of mods & I coach
For anyone that's installed this and used it extensively, how are you fairing when the need to downshift multiple gears comes into play? For example going 5 - 4, 4 - 3 and 3 - 2.

I've set mine up in such a way that 5 - 4 and 4 - 3 downshifts are smooth, but everytime I go 3 - 2 it's always jerky and clunky. I tried playing with the intensity setting but it only seemd to make it worse, and at that point it screwed up the other 2 downshifts. Is there no perfect setting for all downshifts or am I doing something wrong?

I just release the clutch about 1 inch and press it in again to get a double blip going from 4->3 and then 3->2- typically going into T11 @ Sonoma. It might be a little less than an inch, but enough to come off the contact switch at the full extension of the clutch pedal. But it's a subtle action while I'm moving the shift lever actually from 4-3-2 and not just a hard up and over from 4->2. I do it more because I think it sounds cool but it does seem to have a benefit.

Hope that makes sense.
 
225
312
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Virginia
One thing I noticed on my first track weekend with the auto-blip was when under threshold braking with multiple downshifts the second downshift wouldn't blip the throttle. I tried it once back home but, normal driving it worked fine. Maybe it was because I was starting to trail off the brake and didn't notice I was doing so. I'll know more when I go back to the track in April. Anyone experience anything similar?
 

TMO Supporting Vendors

Latest posts

Buy TMO Apparel

Buy TMO Apparel
Top