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Blowfish Racing Battery Relocation Kits

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pufferfish

Supporting Vendor
1,094
66
Maryland
Its finally here! The most comprehensive battery relocation kit on the market today for a S197 Mustang.

The battery may be lightweight, compared to versions of the past, but its still in a bad spot. High and front are 2 things you never want to say for a 35lb plastic box in your vehicle! Low and rear are 2 very good things to say about that 35lb plastic box!

Vehicle scales have shown a total increase of 9lbs, but a shift of 1% weight bias to the rear. That means, if you had 54/46, you now have 53/47. NICE HUH?! the full 1% isn't because you are moving 35lbs from the front to the rear, its because the weight on the front is virtually on the front right tire. when located to the rear lower trunk (spare tire well), you have the power of leverage making that 35lbs act as though it was more by the virtue that it is 30" behind the rear axle. science is cool!

This kit includes everything you need, except for tools and a roll of electrical tape. You even get complete instructions so you know EXACTLY what to do. You don't need to cut a single wire, crimp a single connector or even bust out a soldering gun. You don't need to work out what gauge wire you need, amperage relay or even need to trace down a switched 12 volt feed circuit. ITS ALL HERE!

Best part is, unlike EVERY battery box on the market today, you get to keep the WHOLE TRUNK and everything is out of sight. If, by some miracle, Ford equipped your Mustang with a spare, well you can join the rest of us and use a pump with a goo canister in it. Best of all, you can opt to use the factory battery or a smaller, lighter battery. the supplied hold down will adjust to work with any battery that does not poke out the top of this shallower box.

This kit is legal for all racing, as it includes a completely sealed box with an external vent. It also includes an external battery cutoff switch required for relocated batteries. And the alternator circuit protects you computer from frying if the power is cut while the engine is running.

But, all these electrical doodads cost money. If you are a DIY kind of person, I have you covered there too! You can buy your own electrical parts and cables and I will provide the fabricated parts!

Kits are in stock and ready to ship out! Initial supplies are limited, so if you want a kit, place your order now. First come, first serve and the rest get put on the wait list for batch 2.

http://stores.blowfishracing.com/-strse-Electrical/Categories.bok
 

ArizonaBOSS

Because racecar.
Moderator
8,735
2,740
Arizona, USA
Steve: Looks like a couple of great kits there. I may order one at some point in the future! Probably the "easiest" relocation kit I've seen thus far without soldering giant gauge wires and terminals.
 

Justin

Save the dawn for your dishes!!!
pretty cool I like that it hids every thing. what all is required to drill? do you have a link to the instructions? also say I was to use it with a lipo battery that weighs 14.5lbs it would be even better right?
http://www.lithionicsbattery.com/auto.html
 
So why not improve balance and reduce weight by just using a smaller battery up front? Relocating improves balance, but also adds overall weight in the heavy cable.
 

pufferfish

Supporting Vendor
1,094
66
Maryland
every pound you remove from the front does help weight bias, but if you relocate that weight, it has a greater impact. I forget the numbers, but I figured out what it would take for my car to get a 50/50 weight bias. I will use rough numbers to make the point. I would have needed 240lbs to be removed from the front for the 50/50 or I could move 120lbs from the front to the rear and accomplish the same 50/50 ratio. so, you get a 2:1 ratio if you move the weight instead of remove it. sure, my curb weight has not changed, but the effect is far greater, since it is impossible to remove all 240lbs from the front.

as I mentioned at the top of this page, leverage plays a part in the equation, so moving the battery as far behind the rear axle as possible, makes that 2:1 ratio into more like 2.5 or 3:1. for example, if I put my race tires in the back seat and trunk on the way to the track, my car just squats a bit more due to the extra weight. but I use a package tray hanging off my trailer hitch to bring the tires to the track. my car now squats in the rear and raises in the front. ignoring the weight of the tray, I didn't increase the weight of the tires, but it had a big impact on weight balance!

furthermore, adding weight to the rear improves rear traction.

Justin: you certainly can use a lightweight battery in the relocation box, but it will have less of an impact on the weight bias and traction gains.

cosm3os: simply putting a lighter battery in the OE spot will only remove 15lbs from the front, which will get you less than 0.2% change in bias. Its a personal choice, of course. I am not knocking on you or anyone else for going that route. Its easy, but for the cost, its not as effective at making an impact on handling and it does absolutely nothing for rear traction.
 

Justin

Save the dawn for your dishes!!!
pufferfish said:
Justin: you certainly can use a lightweight battery in the relocation box, but it will have less of an impact on the weight bias and traction gains.
Thats what I was thinking but wasnt 100%. I would be doing it to move weight off of the front for drag racing so the front can rise quicker.

The cost of one of those batteries I was talking about is around 1000 bucks. pretty expensive route to lose 20lbs of the front lol.
 
What's the OEM balance on these? Coming from BMWs (starting at 50/50), my focus was always just weight reduction, rather than change what BMW already did to get it right.

Cool, thanks for the info!
 
If the full kit is something that even I can handle installing it's going on the winter mods list. I was already thinking of doing this mod this winter. I have been frustrated by lack of rear grip and this would certainly help.
 

pufferfish

Supporting Vendor
1,094
66
Maryland
I was at 56/44 prior to the battery relocation. now 55/45.

there is a good deal to do to install the kit, but its not all that difficult. it is probably a 4-6 hour job...guessing because I have only installed it once for development and again for documentation of the final product.
 
pufferfish said:
I was at 56/44 prior to the battery relocation. now 55/45.

there is a good deal to do to install the kit, but its not all that difficult. it is probably a 4-6 hour job...guessing because I have only installed it once for development and again for documentation of the final product.
With winter running from Nov-Mar, I have plenty of time....mechanical skills are an entirely different matter. I was able to do most of my roll bar install but a friend helped with the drilling and tapping a couple troublesome bolts. If it's no more difficult than that I should be able to handle it.
 
cloud9 said:
If the full kit is something that even I can handle installing it's going on the winter mods list. I was already thinking of doing this mod this winter. I have been frustrated by lack of rear grip and this would certainly help.

Despite all of your heavy suspension mods, you still think the rear grip is low?!

It is frustrating to hear this, especially that I am just starting to upgrade the suspension and my main purpose is to increase the rear grip. :'(

The idea of relocating the battery is good though
 
13Boss#3328 said:
Despite all of your heavy suspension mods, you still think the rear grip is low?!

It is frustrating to hear this, especially that I am just starting to upgrade the suspension and my main purpose is to increase the rear grip. :'(

The idea of relocating the battery is good though
Low being a "relative" term. I'm just a little more than picky when it comes to this ;) With the steam roller 315s I had out back at the Mustang Roundup it was just "fine". I could always use more though :D
 
cloud9 said:
With winter running from Nov-Mar, I have plenty of time....mechanical skills are an entirely different matter. I was able to do most of my roll bar install but a friend helped with the drilling and tapping a couple troublesome bolts. If it's no more difficult than that I should be able to handle it.

You did the canister by yourself ;D

The kit looks great, I spend a few hundred bucks on parts alone and it required cutting up different OEM wiring. You are 100% correct about the weight transfer, I could feel the difference when mine was done.
 
pufferfish said:
I was at 56/44 prior to the battery relocation. now 55/45.

there is a good deal to do to install the kit, but its not all that difficult. it is probably a 4-6 hour job...guessing because I have only installed it once for development and again for documentation of the final product.

So what do you think the weight distribution will look like if I do

1) your kit with stock battery
2) Tiger hood CF hood
3) Steeda lightweight radiator support
4) remove the sound tube from the engine bay
5) get lighter weight wheels at the front compared to beefier wheels at tbe area ( same size of course)
6) your suggestions...

Does my list make sense? :eek:
 

pufferfish

Supporting Vendor
1,094
66
Maryland
can't really say for certain what those lightening mods would do to weight distribution. I will hopefully be trying out a hood TR hood and radiator support on my car someday (distant future) and report the changes.

the battery is the single most significant change you can make. after that, it takes a lot of small weight reductions to get the next 1% off the front.

I wouldn't do the lightweight wheel front and heavy wheel rear thing though. the benefits of lightweight all around is greater than the bias change.
 

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