wrap the DS with wide painters tape that that will indicate new scratches.
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Blowfish Racing Shifter Fix
- Thread starterpufferfish
- Start date
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drano38
Wayne
- 1,130
- 318
I've got almost a cardboard thickness between the top of the blue bracket and the bottom of the shifter--the oval drawn in on the above diagram.
I looked at all possible contact points, and can't find anything. One possible point is the shifter housing hitting the tunnel opening thru the rubber boot.
I removed the snout bracket, and installed a homemade shim made out of 1/8" rubber belting.
I'll give it another test drive Sunday.
Here's a pic of my shim.
I looked at all possible contact points, and can't find anything. One possible point is the shifter housing hitting the tunnel opening thru the rubber boot.
I removed the snout bracket, and installed a homemade shim made out of 1/8" rubber belting.
I'll give it another test drive Sunday.
Here's a pic of my shim.
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Having the same vibration issues (but worse) as Drano, last night I removed the bracket assembly to inspect for any unwanted contact between the bracket assembly and stock components that may be the source of the vibration. After inspection I found none whatsoever. The install was clean per instruction. I suspect that the vibration is being transferred from the isolation mount through the bracket to the shifter. Why the shifter vibrates this badly, in my case and not others puzzles me. Maybe my isolation mount is bad???? I run the Ford Racing shifter with 2-post bracket and I don't experience any vibration.
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TMSBOSS said:
Thanks for the idea! Hmmm use the Barton vs the BFR rear mount by simply inverting the Barton and installing. This is something I would have to investigate but my first thoughts are that if inverted, there is a cutout in the Barton (and the BFR ) that aligns with the shifter snout along the top that would no longer be there as it would now be located on the bottom. Shifter height may also be affected as well as interference with stock components but just guessing at this point. I currently have the BFR bracket assembly off the car and am back to my prior configuration. It may be sometime before I can get back under the car to confirm.
TMSBOSS
Spending my pension on car parts and track fees.
Highpower11 said:
I have not had my hands on a Barton bracket. But if is close in design to the MGW you may be able to separate the bracket and rotate one section, basically swapping the left and right pins, and installing with the BF bracket.
Like I said, just guessing, no first hand experience with the Barton
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I read all the ideas about shimming the top bracket and shifter snout, lowering the shifter etc. But don't see that anyone has fixed their shifter rattle under accel. I have the stock shifter and hoping someone had luck just adjusting the 8 bolts. Otherwise I bet it's the shifter rattling and nothing can be done.
- 676
- 256
Installed mine today and I don't seem to have any more noticeable vibration than I had before with my MGW and Whiteline bushing. It is amazing just how different the shifter feels for the better - so much more positive.
But the BR bracket has not completely cured the occasional lockout I get at 7k+ rpm. I got it to lock out on a 2-3 and a 3-4 shift, although I think prior to the install today I would have gotten even more lockouts as hard as I was beating on it. Is there some adjusting that I can do to help lessen this issue?
It is a wonderful product overall, Steve!
But the BR bracket has not completely cured the occasional lockout I get at 7k+ rpm. I got it to lock out on a 2-3 and a 3-4 shift, although I think prior to the install today I would have gotten even more lockouts as hard as I was beating on it. Is there some adjusting that I can do to help lessen this issue?
It is a wonderful product overall, Steve!
skwerl
tree hugger
- 51
- 0
The fix you're looking for is here: http://www.jpcracing.com/tremec-magnum-xl-s197-conversion-complete-kit-also-includes-driveshaft-clutch-flywheel-options/Champale said:
The high rev shifting lockout is caused by the clutch not fully disengaging. Replace the clutch with a high quality clutch and the lockout will be gone. The MT-82 is not the problem and many of the broken transmission have been caused because the clutch won't fully disengage, which allows you to get the trans out of gear but not back in, and then damage is caused because you jam it into gear. Dozens of us have replaced our clutches and shifting lockout becomes a thing of the past.
https://trackmustangsonline.com/index.php?topic=2934.0
https://trackmustangsonline.com/index.php?topic=2934.0
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Had mine up & down on the jack stands a few times today. Installed a 1/8" thick rubber gasket between the shifter bracket & upper bracket. I also wrapped 2 layers of rubber tape around the shifter body 'snout' to eliminate the metal to metal contact between it & the BFR bracket.
I did check & had 1/4" clearance between my shifter body housing & the upper BFR bracket(the circled area in a previous post).
Test drive revealed slightly less vibration in the shifter, which I could care less about. The rattle was cut down by half, but still there during acceleration.
I think the answer for those using the stock shifter will be to isolate the shifter 'snout' from the BFR shifter brackets using rubber gasket, etc. Don't know how to do this yet, as the shifter brackets are milled to surround the shifter snout without any clearance.
For now, I'm going to be happy with the improved shifting & leave the BFR bracket in, but will work on eliminating the rattle this has added. Summer here is gone & will not be able to drive with windows down all the time anymore.
I did check & had 1/4" clearance between my shifter body housing & the upper BFR bracket(the circled area in a previous post).
Test drive revealed slightly less vibration in the shifter, which I could care less about. The rattle was cut down by half, but still there during acceleration.
I think the answer for those using the stock shifter will be to isolate the shifter 'snout' from the BFR shifter brackets using rubber gasket, etc. Don't know how to do this yet, as the shifter brackets are milled to surround the shifter snout without any clearance.
For now, I'm going to be happy with the improved shifting & leave the BFR bracket in, but will work on eliminating the rattle this has added. Summer here is gone & will not be able to drive with windows down all the time anymore.
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I lowered my shifter and the lower bracket and it eliminated it almost completely.
Exceeded my expectations Steve. Fantastic product. I'll leave you a great review on CJ's.
Exceeded my expectations Steve. Fantastic product. I'll leave you a great review on CJ's.
Do think the whiteline bushing would help at all? I too have the rattle in the shifter knob. I don't understand why the rattle is only there with the shifter knob on?
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I had the whiteline bushing and took it out due to NVH and it seemed to worsen my 2-3rd shift. You could try it. Each car is a bit different.
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Geez so I need to spend even more money on my car than I already have??? Hah. I was hoping that the BR bracket would solve my lockout problems but maybe I will need to bite the bullet and order a new clutch after all. Lockouts drive me crazy!
Justin
Save the dawn for your dishes!!!
agree 1000%. My car was shifting great before I even bought the bracket. The additive from ford made a huge difference as wellNFSBOSS said:
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
additive?
Justin
Save the dawn for your dishes!!!
xl-18 http://k-mansparts.com/items/motorcraft-filters-/fluids/Ford-Motorcraft-MT82-transmission-additive-XL-18-detail.htmT1000 said:
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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I installed a steel shim between the shifter snout bracket and the blue bracket to gain some clearance between the top of the blue bracket and the bottom of the shifter body. I also placed some Dyna mat on the top of the blue bracket. I am still getting quite a bit of vibration under acceleration...much more than with the Barton bracket. Back to the drawing board.jlwdvm said:
Thank you for the like to the additive Justin. Much appreciated.
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