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S197 BOSS 302 Race Car Build Thread Build Thread

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ArizonaBOSS said:
That one is the fiberglass version. Couldn't justify the cost of carbon at the time.

Thanks for that I also noticed you don't have hood pins or am I missing something? Is this hood stiff enough with glass to act like the normal hood or do I still need at least a couple hood pins even with the latch?

Also, does wrapping the deader improve power in NA applications? that's one benefit of the shorty factory pipes you can wrap them.. I have kooks the tubes are way too long to wrap.

Going back through your thread... very interesting read.
 

ArizonaBOSS

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twistedneck said:
Thanks for that I also noticed you don't have hood pins or am I missing something? Is this hood stiff enough with glass to act like the normal hood or do I still need at least a couple hood pins even with the latch?

Also, does wrapping the deader improve power in NA applications? that's one benefit of the shorty factory pipes you can wrap them.. I have kooks the tubes are way too long to wrap.

Going back through your thread... very interesting read.

There are hood pins, I have two near the center of the hood. I still have the latch. Might ditch it but not a priority. You should be OK with just the latch, the hood will flutter above 120 a little bit.

QKmG3lK.png

It MAY improve power but not counting on it. What it will definitely do is reduce underhood temps. Truth be told, another user (captdistraction) had these "just laying around" and already wrapped, so we put them on the engine. Otherwise the original non-wrapped manifolds would have gone back on.
 

steveespo

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wrapped my mid pipes from the X back to the over axle portion to protect my Carbon driveshaft and maybe reduce trans temps through heat transfer. They do make a difference in both under car temps (you can briefly touch them after a session) and sound attenuation. There are claims of power increases but I don't believe it adds up to much. If you can wrap the headers it will protect wiring and hoses under hood and reduce cockpit temps on track. Not really hard to do, just need to be patient and use stainless worm drive clamps not the stainless wire tie style they advertise to use with it. Worm clamps tighten better and are cheaper.
Steve
 
What wrap did you use?

I had my kooks headers wrapped with thermotec black, header wrap, when they were installed. But guess what. Over time, the vibration from the headers and heat has dried out the wrap and the wrap broke and started to disintegrate. Lame. I have yet to send them a note and see what they say. But I will.
 
I understand you just droped in the new short block but do you have any hopes as to what you will be putting out in HP or TQ. By the way you did an excellent job at the swap. thanks for all the pictures and videos.
Will the Boss short block get rebuilt as stock or are there plans on upgrading the rotating assembly.
 

ArizonaBOSS

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superhero said:
I understand you just droped in the new short block but do you have any hopes as to what you will be putting out in HP or TQ. By the way you did an excellent job at the swap. thanks for all the pictures and videos.
Will the Boss short block get rebuilt as stock or are there plans on upgrading the rotating assembly.

My guess would be 410whp and 375wtq +/- 5 on both. For reference, the last time I dynoed the car it did 413/373.

Glad you enjoyed the play-by-play :)

Looks like the stock short block is going to a buddy of mine (captdistraction) and getting rebuilt for his own uses, in trade for some racing entry fees in 2015.
 
Drew,

This build is epic! It's awesome to see and a little intimidating too. I know our engines don't last forever. I am just wondering how long did you go with you original engine before you decide to drop in the new one. I ask because I will have to do this sooner or later and just wanted to get a good gauge on how much time I have to save for a new engine. Thanks.

Jamie
 

ArizonaBOSS

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Budget Boss said:
Drew,

This build is epic! It's awesome to see and a little intimidating too. I know our engines don't last forever. I am just wondering how long did you go with you original engine before you decide to drop in the new one. I ask because I will have to do this sooner or later and just wanted to get a good gauge on how much time I have to save for a new engine. Thanks.

Jamie

Jamie, this is at 20,5xx miles and like 60 track hours. I wouldn't have had to do anything to the engine this drastic if it weren't for my own mistakes with fuel.

But FWIW, the sealed engines from Roush that they run in Continental are rated for 50 hours; but that's 50 hours of getting the hell beaten out of them for 2+ hours straight every time.

This was definitely intimidating going into everything, but now having done it, it's not a big deal--except for my wallet.
 
Drew,

I understand the wallet being a lot light. Thanks for the info. With 20 min session one weekend will give me 2 hours and 40 minutes. NASA Texas only has 5 events listed this year and I am missing the first one, so that will give me 13 hours 20 minutes this year with them. I will probably do another 13.2 hours at other events. So, I better start saving looks like I'll be doing this in three years.
 

302 Hi Pro

Boss 302 - Racing Legend to Modern Muscle Car
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Hi Drew:

This was an Epic thread, and I too really enjoyed the read. Thank you for all of the extra time you spent with taking photographs, writing and vid clips, it takes time.

I didn't remember seeing much about the cylinder head castings, did you send them out for machining, and valve work? I know new springs were a discussion point, but any work to the cylinder heads other than dip & clean?

Thanks again, and OBTW, your graphics look great on the car, nicely done.
All the Best in 2015,
Dave
 

ArizonaBOSS

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Hi Dave:

I only had them hot-tanked, then cleaned them up by hand afterwards. A bead blast would have been the best way to go, but I didn't have time with the machine shop closures around Christmas vs. my re-assembly schedule, so I just cleaned them up the best I could myself. I have some before and after I can post if I haven't already.
 

ArizonaBOSS

Because racecar.
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Arizona, USA
OK so latest update:

I had the car out for a break-in run on the dyno and also to record some WOT runs and datalog. New build did within 3hp/tq of the original motor, so I'd say that's great!

Fresh dyno sheet:
voeNa4f.png

In-car video of one of the WOT pulls:

Next thing we had a race weekend at Wild Horse Pass East Track out here in Arizona. It was a fun weekend with only minor teething issues. We forgot to fully tighten the ground wire for the EPAS rack so I lost power steering unexpectedly a couple times the first day. Found and fixed this first thing Sunday morning.
Overall the car performed great and I set my new personal best time by 0.002 seconds (lol). This was great for me, as I hadn't driven this car in about 6 months on-track, so being able to match my old performance was very pleasing.

Saturday Main Race:

Sunday Qualifying Race:

Weekend Blooper Reel:


Next race is Feb 28-March 1 at Willow Springs International Raceway! 130mph sweeper turn!
wilspr-tracklayout-b.jpg


Also this week I pulled the trigger on this MCS double-adjustable damper setup from Vorshlag. This should be a nice step-up from my Roush/KW package and make the car even more competitive (The Roush/KW setup will be for sale soon, if anyone is interested).
_DSF2113%20copy-XL.jpg
 
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Drew,

What spring rates did you go with? I plan on 800lbs in the front and 250lbs in the rear. BTW I have talk to AI guys and they all suggested the remote reservoirs because of heat. Did you and Jason talk about heat in the fluid of the shocks/struts? Thanks
 

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