Grant 302
basic and well known psychic
steveespo said:OK Grant so I kinda get it.
Here is my take on the procedure based on what you describe and freedoms video
Remove, coils, cam covers.
Rotate cylinder to be worked on to TDC
Remove cam bearing caps on cylinder to be worked on.
Install freedom racing spring compressor on pair of valve springs and compress
Depress lash adjuster and slide follower (rocker arm) out from between cam and valve tip????
Remove keepers, retainers and springs
Install new springs, replace retainers and keepers, slide follower back in place.
Release spring compressor and remove.
Reinstall cam bearing caps and retorque NEW bolts to spec.
Repeat on cylinder that is opposite in the firing order, (at TDC on cam base circle)
Rotate crank 90 degrees and repeat 3 more times.
Reinstall cam covers, coils and the rest of parts removed for access
Rev to 8000 rpm
I think I got it right. Freedom racing does have a good video which shows the process on "bare" heads with no cams installed but if shows how their tool works very clearly. No vids on you tube showing the job in car with cams in place that I could find though.
Guess I have my next project, considering I have run stock Coyote springs on track for 4 years now at reclines from 7000 to now 7700 rpm, might be fun to freshen them up prior to the big long lock swap that hopefully won't happen until this time next year.
Steve
I think you got it right, but you do use the tool twice per cylinder since it works on either the intake pair or the exhaust pair when the tool is positioned over the respective cam, like they show on their video.
I don't know about the need to use new bolts in the cam caps. I don't recall those being TTY on the 2V.
And I'd make sure to have a set of any gaskets that may be damaged like the cam covers.
Block oil drain-back holes so you can't lose any of the keepers or retainers.