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Captdistraction's ST2/GTR build thread Build Thread

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captdistraction

GrumpyRacer
1,954
1,698
Phoenix, Az
On a side note, I had to play this video today as a reminder:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x8OnZcCY7lo


On the wedding: My fiancee's perfect: Her first and only request was: "You can build the racecar, I'll even get a truck to haul it. However one rule: there must be a passenger seat and I must have access to that."

I took her out once and she was hooked, sat in 4 DE sessions out in Chuckwalla Valley, not an ounce of fear in her. (maybe I wasn't driving hard enough?)
 

Tucson 302

2013 Black LS #439
captdistraction said:
On the wedding: My fiancee's perfect: Her first and only request was: "You can build the racecar, I'll even get a truck to haul it. However one rule: there must be a passenger seat and I must have access to that."

That's a good woman! Much like my bride, one day when I grow up and move to race class I will still have to do some TT or DE sessions to keep my better half happy
 

captdistraction

GrumpyRacer
1,954
1,698
Phoenix, Az
a bit more work was done, finalized what the plan is for attack and:

-installed a hotchkis upper control arm (beefy rod end and hardware, stocker rubber bushing destroyed both in the housing and on the arm)
-haven't installed the replacement bushing yet in the axle but will
-installed a MM rod-end panhard bar (thanks drew!), replaces a poly one
-installed the watson/howe ball joints (I do need to paint the cups and get a socket to tighten them)
-installed rear tow hook (we set it up a bit lower compared to others, but a good exit spot on the bumper, can still use a plate if desired)

Just need to get the door bars done, doors gutted, some minor fabrication work, dash cut, radiator blockoffs built (which we will make extras), shoulder harness bar installed and then over to paint!

Before I go too far, I need to order the APR GT-250 wing so that we can fabricate any supports needed for it. Anyone know of a good deal on them? Best I've seen is ~$1250 shipped. I also need to order the optic armor rear window which I'll do before too long.
 

ArizonaBOSS

Because racecar.
Moderator
8,730
2,734
Arizona, USA
captdistraction said:
a bit more work was done, finalized what the plan is for attack and:

-installed a hotchkis upper control arm (beefy rod end and hardware, stocker rubber bushing destroyed both in the housing and on the arm)
-haven't installed the replacement bushing yet in the axle but will
-installed a MM rod-end panhard bar (thanks drew!), replaces a poly one
-installed the watson/howe ball joints (I do need to paint the cups and get a socket to tighten them)
-installed rear tow hook (we set it up a bit lower compared to others, but a good exit spot on the bumper, can still use a plate if desired)

Just need to get the door bars done, doors gutted, some minor fabrication work, dash cut, radiator blockoffs built (which we will make extras), shoulder harness bar installed and then over to paint!

Before I go too far, I need to order the APR GT-250 wing so that we can fabricate any supports needed for it. Anyone know of a good deal on them? Best I've seen is ~$1250 shipped. I also need to order the optic armor rear window which I'll do before too long.

Call Leroy (602) FLATOUT for a price on that wing. He installed mine but that probably won't be the case for you.

How was the UCA install? Was your stock chassis-side mount ovaled-out at all? I still haven't installed my UCA; contemplating getting that BMR chassis mount as I'll bet my stocker is a lil mangled.
 

captdistraction

GrumpyRacer
1,954
1,698
Phoenix, Az
no my mount was round, I reused the stock bracket and with the stock hardware I couldn't find any play in the bolt/mount interfaces. I should have taken some pictures. Those bolts are a bit of a pain to remove, though the pain for me mostly was that I had the overaxle pipes loose and hanging about. I spent more time removing them than actually working on the arm, very quick install and the big bolt inside was a non-issue, just pull on the bar like you have a pair. I imagine the bushing replacement for the axle won't be the same way. but I'll try to have that handled on a lift or down the road.

I'll get a picture of the stock arm and its bushing.
 

captdistraction

GrumpyRacer
1,954
1,698
Phoenix, Az
No real updates to speak of. Not much from MMR but another promise of a couple weeks, no real data on the state of the hardware they're working with. I'll deal with that soon one way or another.

The chassis is coming along, but I'm not sure about where I'll be about shakedown in 2015. Hopefully it all goes back together pretty quickly and I can at least log a DE day to break in the vehicle before the end of the year and start 2016 on the right foot (mashed to the metal).

More updates coming soon, I received some killer wedding gifts from friends ranging from a brake caliper tool kit (my knuckles love it), replacement brake duct hosing, a lithium battery and charger for the car, and some other tools.
 

captdistraction

GrumpyRacer
1,954
1,698
Phoenix, Az
Ok, some updates:

More parts purchased (from some of you guys no less, thanks!):

Torsen T2 Diff (2.7:1 Boss unit)
Whiteline adjustable endlinks
Center and window nets

On the build side:
-went back and truly gutted the passenger door as a test to see how far we can go on the driver's side. We took as much structure out as we could, welded a nut to mount the handle, and welded a rear support to give the door back some structure and rigidity when closed/open. I have not weighed it, but see pictures below. Probably pulled another 5lbs out from where I last left it.

-mounted the dash bar and column. Fabricator made some trick endplates to go on the factory dash bar to seal it up nicely, we've set the wheel height and depth, and replaced a number of OE components in that area that needed servicing (replacement bearing in the firewall, and brake booster pin)

-installed front/rear towhooks/bumper beams and reassembled car.

-Driver's doorbars, passenger doorbars, harness bar and last two support bars are next. Followed by driver's door gutting, front cooling modifications (and perhaps a re-route of the oil cooling lines and new thermostat location as part of that). The front cooling blockoffs will be a part we will make copies of as some other 2011-2012 owners could probably use these (requires FR front tubular bumper beam). After that, there's not a whole lot left before paint.

-No update on the MMR motor. Couple weeks or something uninspiring like that IIRC.

Pictures:

Wheel hung on a really trick hook that's out of the way of a passenger. Will have a helmet hook as well. Can also see some of the initial false floor and column work (and a driver's door that's mostly untouched)
pQCyvhR.jpg

Driver's side view
GBHokdN.jpg

Mostly assembled rear side of the car (nice to see the tailights and bumper mounted again):
tuKncmj.jpg

Mad scientist/perfectionist at work:
VmqmBQ9.jpg

Worked into the night, even after a good effort by me to chop into my left index finger:
erOaIcS.jpg

The "Jade Buford"
AMhGkT7.jpg

The finalized passenger door
eNhMZj4.jpg
v8ceR3J.jpg

Planning for the baby Battery Tender battery:
T7AJVZR.jpg

CamberPony:
LwjbOWh.jpg

Another view of the passenger side:
PPEEyBw.jpg

drivers:
YXZOeNv.jpg
 
Looking good.
 
One tip for ya. Get some spare keys made. Since we're not able to disable the PATS the key has to be in and when I'm doing exit drills I routinely hit my knee on the key. It sticks out like a branch.

Broke one already. I actually trailered my car to a Ford dealer and the tech programmed 3 new keys right in the trailer!
 
ilesjohn said:
why can't you disable the PATS

My tuner said they can't do it. But if I were to guess as to why, I'd say to help deter car theft markets for Mustangs which would drive the insurance rates up and decline sales. If any joe with a tuner can disable PATS it would defeat the purpose.
 

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