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Cleaning Your BOSS

jec246

Hey everyone! Just out of curiosity. What cleaning supplies do y'all use for your cars? This is my first collector's vehicle and I want to keep it as pristine as possible. Any tips and tricks are VERY welcome as well! Thanks in advance!
 
You beat me to it, I was going to ask the same question. I'm a little nervous about even washing the darn thing since I always go to a cool detailer guy in town. Need to go get all the goodies now, found a bottle of Amway car wash in the garage tonight. Umm.....no. Detailing tips and tricks are all over the net but I'd rather hear from the folks at BMO.
 
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Some very basic's worth mentioning as follows.

Rinse off exterior very well before washing.

Use a specialty car wash mitt or micro fiber wash pad.

Always wash in a shady area or under a carport etc.

Use extra care when drying exterior by using super soft materials or terry towels in good shape that have been rinsed with fabric softener in the washing machine during the rinse cycle.

When drying exterior always pull towel in one direction and avoid to much pressure and rubbing.

Dry under hood, door jambs and trunk lid area.

Wipe down engine and all areas under hood.

Avoid harsh cleaners and things like armor all etc etc, a damp lint free cloth is best, rung out in warm water first to wipe down interior.

When vacuuming carpet, seats and interior panels, try to locate a round brush similar to the style used on Rainbow vacuums, they are made from horse hair and very effective picking up dirt without scratching.

Vacuum under hood pad with same style brush, but with one only used for this purpose.

Keep your car in the garage when not in use.

Hope these tips help, I'm sure others have great ideas as well

Stef

Post Script:
ONE OF THE BEST PRODUCTS YOU CAN USE IS AMWAY L.O.C (liquid organic concentrate) ADDED TO YOUR WASH BUCKET. ONE SMALL CAP FULL WILL MAKE CLEANING MUCH MORE EFFECTIVE AND DIRT GRIM WILL MELT UNDER
THE HOOD AREA VERY EFFECTIVELY WITHOUT LEAVING A PATINA FROM HARD WATER RESIDUE, ESPECIALLY ON RUBBER AND PLASTIC PARTS.
 
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GA
I posted this thread with a video a while back for cleaning the steering wheel:
https://trackmustangsonline.com/boss-302-technical-forum/cleaning-of-alcantara-steering-wheel/


Personally I like Meguiar's NXT Tech Wax 2.0 for the exterior (prepared first with a clay bar and Swirl-X when you get to that point), Turle Wax Ice for the interior plastic surfaces, and Meguiar's NXT Insane Shine for the tires. Mother's Back to Black is great for the black exterior plastic and trim on the car. I haven't had cloth seats in a long time, so I can't help you there (carry some Febreeze for those nights you go out for Mexican food :D ) Your painted wheels should be treated just like the paint on the body. I used this stuff and I was always complimented on how great my '08 Bullitt still looked after almost 4 years and being a daily driver and track car.

Griot's Garage products (shown in the video) are a favorite among hard core detailers.
 
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A couple of years ago, I spent quite a bit of time learning how to detail and correct paint. I highly recommend you check out autogeek.net.

http://www.autogeek.net/detailingtips.html

At the bottom are some things I figured out how to do.

They have some great info about how to care for a car.

Just remember if you are touching the paint you are scratching it. So make sure you using microfibers or the softest products you can find to in anything that touches your paint.

I suggest you use a 2 bucket method for washing your car and make sure you have a grit guard you use to clean your wash "rag" before dipping it back in your soap bucket.

I suggest the first thing you do is clay bar your car. Even a brand new car will have debris in the paint and you'll be amazed how much debris you'll get out and how much smoother the car will be when finished. (Take a sandwich bag or lightly use your hand to do a before and after.)

Once you get it clay bar'd, I go over it with either a cleaner wax or I detailer to make sure I get all the residue off.

Then personally I like the sealants because they last longer than a regular carnuba wax. The sealants take overnight to cure. Then if you like based on the color of your car, experiment with different wax types on top of the sealant.

Also, if you EVER get bird droppings or such on your car, IMMEDIATELY get it off. (Or when you get home.)

The link above will teach about everything you need to know. Their forum is great as well.

Here is a door Mercedes black door I got from a junk yard and practiced on. (Learning to use a buffer, and all my orbitals.)
FYI, with a new car you shouldn't need a buffer. I recommend a good orbital though. I have the Flex 3401 Dual action and the 3403 Rotary. I also have a Griots and my friend has the Porter Cable 7424. I would recommend the Flex 3401 first and the Griots second if you don't want to spend the money on the Flex. (The Flex 3401 will get out tougher scratches but with a new car hopefully you want need it.)

Here is a door Mercedes black door I got from a junk yard and practiced on. (Learning to use a buffer, and all my orbitals.) If memory serves I did a little wet sanding on this door and then hit it with a rotary/Wool and then finished it off with my Flex 3401 Orbital. Note, if you can feel a scratch with your finger nail, most likely you won't be able to get it out. (So don't burn through your clear coat trying if you ever get one.)

Before
PaintDoorBefore.jpg


After
PaintDoorAfter.jpg


Friends car (Paint wasn't great on this car to start with.)

Before
RearBefore.jpg


After (We didn't finish up until late that night. This pix is the next day in his driveway)
RearAfter2.jpg
 
Some good information on autogeek, thanks for the links and info. Doesn't seem to be any definative information on how to maintain the vinyl stripes on the Boss (or any vinyl stripes/graphics). What I have gathered is nothing abrasive, do not clay them, nothing harsh etc. I have used the ICE liquid wax and spray detailer on them and that cleaned them up good and shiny. So if any one has any suggestions with keeping these looking good today and 10 years from now, I would like to hear them.
 
Hello Frosty:
Great job on that Mercedes door!!!!! Most valuable cleaning tips. Any special treatment for the BOSS strips/decals? I have ready where over time they may get worn/damaged.
DickD
 
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DickD/MNG,

I've started a thread over at autogeek (AG) on some ideas for my car color. (Ingot Silver)

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/41358-finally-back-looking-suggestions.html#post543857

Somebody has already responded with some good ideas about what to try with the car. A product called Iron X was recommended before claying. I'm going to give it a try as well.

(I just started learning about coatings yesterday so please research and make your own decision.) You can also call AutoGeek and they're pretty helpful if you tell them what they are looking for. FYI. I have NO affiliation with AutoGeek, they just have a great site and were extremely helpful when I was trying to learn how to care for cars.

With that out of the way, in the past year it looks as if Optimum has come out with a Coating they are selling retail. It's called OptiCoating.

Also, there is more of a nano coating called CQuartz. OptiCoating is more of a permanent protectant than CQuartz.

From what I've read both can be put on plastics & Vinyls as well.

The idea is it's quite a bit harder than the factory clearcoat and bonds with whatever you apply it to. You still have to be careful with your care as it's not going to prevent chips and you can still get swirls like you can in clearcoat. The supposed benefits are it's harder and also if you do get micro damage, it's in the protective coating instead of the clear coat.

I've ordered some of the OptiCoating to try it out on our daily drivers. Worse case I'm going to coat the wheels and the decals.

Coatings have been debated quite extensively on AG as I'm sure you'll have a ton of questions like I have about coatings. Also, if you decide to give one of the products (And there are others as well.) There are videos in the AG forums on how to apply the products.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/products-guides/40989-how-apply-cquartz-complete-video-guide.html

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-car-garage-how-videos/35100-video-opti-coat-application.html

If you decide you want to try coatings on your decals only, I suggest you get some painters tape and tape off around the decals to keep from getting the coating on your paint when applying.

Also, again PLEASE do your own research about coatings as I have no experience with them. I'm just like everyone else here trying to figure out the best way to protect my car and I started reading about coatings yesterday. They sound promising but I've yet to try them.
 
thanks for the info, Frosty. Like you, I want to preserve my car as much as possible so that when it becomes a collectors item, it will be ready for sale (but I want to drive and do a little solo racing for the next 10 yrs or so.
Dick D
 
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Fyi. Just read that quartz isn't recommended for soft plastics such as a clear bra so maybe it's not recommended for decals. So I would look at opticoat.
 

jec246

Found this while researching how to clean hard water spots off of glass. I have some on my front and rear windows...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9znLgZoc2is

Anyone ever try this stuff?
 
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Do you know what type of water spots they are.

I haven't used the product in the video but if that doesn't work, you can look at a product called Diamondite.

Here's a post on it.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/9936-product-review-diamondite-glass-cleaning-system.html

If it's mineral deposits, I've read you can try Vinegar.

Here's a link to a list of How too articles from an Expert.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/23722-articles-mike-phillips.html

Scroll down to the Water Spots section to find out more about the types of water spots.
 
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Touchless automatic wash. TurtleWax ICE synth polymer sealant. Car cover when it will be stored for winter.
 
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stef said:
If you start using LOC, as I mentioned, you will not get water spots on anything.

Stef,

You are just referring to not getting water spots when you wash your car because of hard water, correct?

However, you aren't saying that will prevent all types of water spots such as getting your car hit with a sprinkler, leaving rain on your car etc correct?

Those types of water spots usually requires getting the car dry.

If I ever get caught out in the rain in something i don't want to deal with water spots, I get home and dry it and go over the paint with a quick detailer and then use a window product on the glass.

The longer you leave them the harder it can be to get them out.
 
I use a leaf blower to dry my Boss it works very well drying the water around the lights and grill. Also, it does not leave any scratches. I use a Swiffer Duster 360 to clean the dust out of the cracks and crevasses under the hood.
 
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Snapped some pix this afternoon with the 3M clear bra and coating applied.

http://photobucket.com/LSOptiCoat
 

drano38

Wayne
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I wash my Boss every weekend that I drive it.

Soft water (hot and cold) outside my house, so I use that. Previous owner was smart to plumb that in!

Poorboys bug and tar remover for the bugs
Gilmore foaming sprayer http://www.amazon.com/Gilmour-95QGFMR-Foamaster-Cleaning-Sprayer/dp/B000Y190WE/ref=pd_sbs_ol1
with Detailer's Pro Xtreme Foam soap http://www.autogeek.net/foam-gun-soap.html
to pre-wash/rinse
Gilmore brass quick connects make switching hose attachments easy.
2-bucket method with grit guards in both pails
Duragloss soap
sea sponge

Weekend after I brought the Boss home I clayed it and applied Menzerna Power Lock sealant.

Microfiber drying towels glide across the car and soak up the water effortlessly.

So far, I like the process and results
 

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