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Cold Air Intake question

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I need some thoughts in choosing Cold Air Intake for 2011 V6 Mustang [yes I know it is not Cobra ;)]. My daughter started to take it to the track and she loves it, so after some suspension upgrades we are looking into engine upgrades and cold air intake sounds as a good start.

lethalperformance lists a number of them https://www.lethalperformance.com/s...tang-v6-3-7l/induction/induction-kits-filters, but only dyno results I've seen is on K&N. Stephen from lethalperformance recomends JLT.

Does anyone have thoughts/recommendations? The intake is for usability, so looks are not that important...

Thank you,

Vadim
 
im not caught up on the v6 but the general rule for engine modifications is if it doesn't require a tune its probably not worth.

in general I would agree with you, but looking at k&n dyno: http://kandn.com/dynocharts/69-3529_dyno.pdf (yes, I know it is posted by manufacturer ;) ), it shows 14ft/lb gain on 230 ft/lb engine (at the wheel), so given that this is the only thing you can do with V6 I think I'll go with it. JTL is $260 shipped, so it is not that bad.

Vadim
 
FYI, I know a Test Engineer that works with me at the Dearborn Lab that collected all of the available CAIs on the market and put them on a workhorse engine in one of our test cells and none of them made any actual power except the one that was skewing the MAF transfer function.
The only reason you’ll see any difference at all is the “toon” the aftermarket guys include with these because very few aftermarket companies have the cash to pay for the assembly to be put into a lab and flowed the way the OE stuff is done. None of these modern Ford engines have any intake restriction.
 
My car came with a Roush cold air intake and my intake air temps were really high any time I was stopped, with the oem intake it's basically always ambient temps, the OEM intake is actually a true cold air intake with a slight ram effect because it grabs air from the grill area. The biggest difference you could make is a good tune. Aftermarket intakes do sound good though which I miss.
 
6
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W2W Racing
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5-10 Years
Charlotte, NC
While I agree that a CAI doesn't reaaaaaaaaaally do a whole lot, they do have one real purpose. They make really nifty induction noises. If that is understood that it will sound cool but not really go faster I would say go for it.

If it was me, I would spend the money on sticky tires and/or performance (fade resistant) brake pads.
 
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5-10 Years
Philly Metro Area
You may want to try AFE's Magnum Flow Pro drop-in filters. They have more surface area than the flat drop-in filters. Wet or Dry.


 
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5-10 Years
Philly Metro Area
Next on upgrade list is [ford performance] break lines and better brake fluid, following by better pads....

Just be aware that the Ford Brake lines are just a tougher lower expansion rubber line. If the car will see frequent track use you may want to invest in stainless lines by Goodridge, Russell, or J&M. Vorshlag makes a neat set that includes slightly longer rear lines so the lines aren't stretched when the axle is at full droop.

 
Just be aware that the Ford Brake lines are just a tougher lower expansion rubber line. If the car will see frequent track use you may want to invest in stainless lines by Goodridge, Russell, or J&M. Vorshlag makes a neat set that includes slightly longer rear lines so the lines aren't stretched when the axle is at full droop.

I ended up ordering Goodridge. I am not sure how much track time the car will see, but I do want to do it the right way...

Now I need to find good dual purpose pads...
 
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TMSBOSS

Spending my pension on car parts and track fees.
7,560
5,294
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Illinois
I had good luck with Pagid pads for dual use. Rotors have to be clean and the pads bedded when new or you will likely see pad material build up on your rotors. Once I learned how to clean and bed, they were great dual use pads.
 
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HPDE
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Philly Metro Area
Now I need to find good dual purpose pads...

You may want to search the forum for more info on that (it will make your head explode) or start a new thread. There are really no true good dual purpose pads. However, you have the benefit of a lighter car and a lower top speed due to the V6.

Any street pad with low dust will run into fade issues after a few aggressive laps. Brake ducting can delay that but may not eliminate it. It depends on how fast she drives it and her braking habits. Riding the brakes will kill pads, especially street pads, very quickly.

You can run a lower heat range track pad on the street but you will get more dust and perhaps noise while driving on the street. Depending on the pad, you may also get faster rotor wear while street driving. I know it sounds counter-intuitive but the way track pads work, they are rougher on rotors when they're cold.

If you can take the time to swap pads, at least the fronts, between track days then having separate street and separate track pads is the way to go. Several companies such as GLOC and Carbotech use a pad compound that is compatible between their street pads and track pads. That means you don't have to scuff the rotors and re-bed the pads when you swap them. However they are a bit expensive.

This is a good page to read:

As a lower cost alternative to try while your daughter learns during the first year, I would suggest PowerStop pads. They have a Z26 pad that is very nice for the street and is low dust. They have a corresponding TrackDay pad for the track. It produces a good amount of dust but it works REALLY well. I've used them for 3 seasons and they have slowed me down from 140mph down to 45-50 with no problem and no fade. You should have absolutely no problem with a V6. You can swap between the street and track pad with no problem. RockAuto has the best prices.

I would still recommend brake ducts
 
I can second the powerstop trackday pads. I used them for a season and they were really good for what they were. Super cheap and available from rock auto. I use G-LOC pads now and swap to a track compound when I get to the track which is probably the best thing you could do. But, if she is just starting out something like the trackday pads from powerstop might do the trick. Also I saw Hawk has a new street/race pad which they say will fill in the dual purpose void. Supposed to be good till 1200 degrees.
 
As a lower cost alternative to try while your daughter learns during the first year, I would suggest PowerStop pads. They have a Z26 pad that is very nice for the street and is low dust. They have a corresponding TrackDay pad for the track. It produces a good amount of dust but it works REALLY well. I've used them for 3 seasons and they have slowed me down from 140mph down to 45-50 with no problem and no fade. You should have absolutely no problem with a V6. You can swap between the street and track pad with no problem. RockAuto has the best prices.
I started to search forums, but yes I did get overwhelmed. I was thinking of getting her Hawk HP+ or DS2500 as dual use, with understanding that it is not perfect but would while she is just starting to see how serious she wants to go.

PowerStop idea looks very interesting, and not expensive at all. If I decide to go that way, would you recommend to swap rotors or keeping OEM are OK?

Thank you,
 
After reading more about PowerStop, what if I just leave Track pad for the street? PowerStop claims that track pad can be used on the street (https://www.powerstop.com/brake-pads-kit-right-track-day/), she does drive daily, but HS is .7mi away, so car barely get 5K/year. Her wheels are black, so dust would not be as visible. She hopes to take car to track monthly for the next 5-6 months (she is going to college in August/September).

Is this terrible idea?
 
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TMSBOSS

Spending my pension on car parts and track fees.
7,560
5,294
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Illinois
Not at all.
my daughter tracks her RS and the Mustang before that. She does not demand as much as god does from braked.
Yes, dedicated track pads and rotor along with dedicated street pads and rotors is the perfect solution. Are they needed? Your call. My call with my daughters car was no. Since she did not hammer the car like her dad, Dual purpose pads and rotors worked just fine.
 
Not at all.
my daughter tracks her RS and the Mustang before that. She does not demand as much as god does from braked.
Yes, dedicated track pads and rotor along with dedicated street pads and rotors is the perfect solution. Are they needed? Your call. My call with my daughters car was no. Since she did not hammer the car like her dad, Dual purpose pads and rotors worked just fine.
which pads does she use?
 
After reading more about PowerStop, what if I just leave Track pad for the street? PowerStop claims that track pad can be used on the street (https://www.powerstop.com/brake-pads-kit-right-track-day/), she does drive daily, but HS is .7mi away, so car barely get 5K/year. Her wheels are black, so dust would not be as visible. She hopes to take car to track monthly for the next 5-6 months (she is going to college in August/September).

Is this terrible idea?

I'm sure in theory they can be used but in my experience even driving to the track on them they were very noisy. A super loud high pitched screeching noise. I think an hawk HP+ or equivelant would be the best to start her out as she probably will be quite timid in the braking zones to start.
 
I'm sure in theory they can be used but in my experience even driving to the track on them they were very noisy. A super loud high pitched screeching noise. I think an hawk HP+ or equivelant would be the best to start her out as she probably will be quite timid in the braking zones to start.

Noise is what I was worried about ;). People are also complaining on HP+ for noise..

Thank you,

Vadim
 

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