Coolant Leak

[Hambone]

So I had noticed a small amount of fluid on the garage floor when I pull out over the last few weeks. At first I thought it was just water. Maybe less than an ounce or so. Then when the car sat for about a week I noticed it was quite a bit more. I finally tracked it down to the connection between the upper radiator hose and the T fitting. Small leak right at the connection. It seems to only leak after everything cools down and I can't see any cracks. I am going to replace the upper hose and the T fitting if I can find one. My local dealer said the T fitting is on a nationwide backorder(that's concerning). A few questions for the experienced. The car has 59k on it currently and is a 2012.
1) Anyone else have the issue?
2) Anything I should know about before attempting this myself?

 

[2012Boss302]

I've done a lot of these on the 5.0 trucks, easy job. We replace the upper hose as well....

 

[Hambone]

Any trick to releasing the hose clamp connected to the T fitting? Doesn't look like the standard clamp that I am used to.

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

Any trick to releasing the hose clamp connected to the T fitting? Doesn't look like the standard clamp that I am used to.

There is a spring clip on each hose end that must be pulled off, then the hose will slide right off. It's a similar and larger version of the way the clutch line is held on at the transmission.



http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=844&viewfile=Thermostat%20and%20Thermostat%20Housing%20-%20Exploded%20View.pdf

 

[Hambone]

Thanks Arizona! From your detailed drawing I see 2 O-rings. Should I replace those also? I am now thinking that that may be the reason for the leak. I didn't realize that they are in there.

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

Thanks Arizona! From your detailed drawing I see 2 O-rings. Should I replace those also? I am now thinking that that may be the reason for the leak. I didn't realize that they are in there.

I couldn't tell you for certain. From the web link I posted it looks like the O-Rings are part of the hose and T-Joint assemblies--so if you are buying those you should get them included.

 

[302 Hi Pro]

Yes, you should. You might be right as one of these o rings maybe the cause of your leak.

302 Hi Pro

 

[Hambone]

Thanks again guys. I will see what I get when the parts come in. Luckily it is not leaking enough now to panic. Hopefully I can get it done this weekend.

 

[2012Boss302]

http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=844&viewfile=Thermostat%20and%20Thermostat%20Housing%20-%20Exploded%20View.pdf

We replace #5 and usually #2 at the same time....

 

[Hambone]

Yep that's what I ordered. The upper hose and the T fitting. Now lets just see what I break in the process and how much fluid I spill everywhere. Maybe a dumb question but should I drain the entire system before disconnecting? I haven't done any cooling system repairs since my 83 GT blew a water pump.

 

[302 Hi Pro]

Yes, I would drain the cooling system before disconnecting any hoses.

You might just want to flush the cooling system while your at it, especially if the coolant smells bad. Mine is starting to get that particular coolant smell that is much different than new coolant. The PH changes and it has reduced additive package protection for the aluminum and copper bits found in the cooling system.

But, I do a lot of PM on my Boss. So it's your call depending on the condition of your antifreeze.

Good luck,
302 Hi Pro

 

[Hambone]

Interesting note but while I have been waiting for parts the leak has stopped. While I was at work one day I went to check the coolant level and put my hand on the joint where the upper hose and T fitting connect(the source of the leak) and noticed it has play both forward/backward and you can slightly rotate it. Not much but enough to make you think it shouldn't. Bad Idea because it really started leaking then. I fiddled with it some more and it stopped and has not leaked since. It took me a while to find someone who had stock of the T fitting so I am still waiting for it to arrive. Common sense tells me once a leak starts it never stops on its own and sooner or later it will fail at the worst possible moment.

Would be nice to know if anyone else wants to try and fiddle with their hose and see if you cause a leak.

 

[ilesjohn]

its still leaking, you won't know it unless you have a camera on it while you drive the car.

 

[Hambone]

So the leak never did get any worse and I had not seen any coolant on the floor over the past week. I went ahead and changed the upper hose and the T fitting since I had already bought them( $150 total).

Very simple process, everything was easy to get to. You have to reuse the upper hose clamp at the radiator.

I did not see any O-rings as I thought from the diagram in earlier post but there where 2 plastic washers(#3 & 7 in the diagram). One comes with the upper hose and the other with the T fitting. Still concerning since I could not see anything physically wrong with the old parts.

The best thing was I did not break anything else in the process.

Thanks for the help guys!

 

[Track50h]

I would most definitely replace those o-rings, I had a similar leak to yours and the reason was because the O-ring was crushed and would not seal properly.

 

[captdistraction]

I have the same issue though just the upper hose. Do I need to replace both?

 

[Hambone]

I replaced the upper hose and the T fitting (#5 in the diagram above). The upper hose came with the plastic ring that I believe is #3 already inserted so I think that was probably all I needed. You can just try that first and if that doesn't work then go with the T fitting. I have had no leak since with about 6,000 miles driven. Good luck.

 

[JScottGT]

#3 on the diagram posted by ArizonaBoss is typically the culprit. Luckily it is a service part, and it's like $4 at the dealer. Because of the slight amount of play in that joint, the vibrations from the engine cause a small flat spot in that o-ring. It is a common failure seen on F150 and Mustang 5.0 engines (same parts). All you have to do is drain some coolant out, pull the spring clip, and disconnect the upper rad hose from the plastic t-fitting housing. The O-ring can be removed with a small poker tool. Use a little petroleum jelly on the new o-ring to ensure a good seal when you reinstall. Top off the fluid you drained out, and you're good to go. I just had to do this on my wife's F150, and it took about 10 minutes.

 

[302 Hi Pro]

General coolant system question: I'm getting ready to service the cooling system on my 2012 Boss 302, (Preventitive Maintance), so, Is there anything special that needs to be done in bleeding the system? e.g. Remove any air pockets above the fill point?

I also plan on flushing the system including the heater core.

Thanks for any advice,
302 Hi Pro

 

[JScottGT]

From the factory service manual:

Filling and Bleeding without a Vacuum Cooling System Filler - Degas Bottle Systems

NOTICE: The engine cooling system is filled with Motorcraft® Orange Antifreeze/Coolant. Always fill the cooling system with the manufacturer's specified coolant. Chemically flush the cooling system if a non-specified coolant has been used. Refer to Cooling System Flushing in this section. Failure to follow these instructions may damage the engine or cooling system.

NOTICE: Engine coolant provides boil protection, corrosion protection, freeze protection and cooling efficiency to the engine and cooling components. In order to obtain these protections, maintain the engine coolant at the correct concentration and fluid level in the degas bottle.

To maintain the integrity of the coolant and the cooling system:
Add Motorcraft® Orange Antifreeze/Coolant or equivalent. Do not mix coolant types.
Do not add or mix with any other type of engine coolant. Mixing coolants may degrade the coolant's corrosion protection.
Do not add alcohol, methanol, or brine, or any engine coolants mixed with alcohol or methanol antifreeze. These can cause engine damage from overheating or freezing.
Ford Motor Company does NOT recommend the use of recycled engine coolant in vehicles originally equipped with Motorcraft® Orange Antifreeze/Coolant since a Ford-approved recycling process is not yet available.
Fill the radiator through the degas bottle until the coolant level is between the COOLANT FILL LEVEL marks.
When adding or topping of the engine coolant:
Measure the coolant concentration in the vehicle using the Coolant/Battery Refractometer 300-ROB75240 or equivalent.
Determine the concentration desired based on the vehicle duty cycle of extreme hot or cold operating conditions.
Add/top off or adjust coolant as follows:
For concentrations measured 48/52 to 50/50 (equates to a freeze point between -31°C [-30°F] and -34°C [-37°F]), use Motorcraft® Orange Antifreeze/Coolant Prediluted to maintain a coolant concentration in this same range.
For all other concentrations, use Motorcraft® Orange Antifreeze/Coolant Concentrated and/or distilled water to get to the desired concentration.
When refilling the engine coolant after a flush procedure, use a mixture of Motorcraft® Orange Antifreeze/Coolant Concentrated and distilled water to get to the desired concentration.
Recommended coolant concentration is 48/52 to 50/50 engine coolant to distilled water (freeze protection -31°C [-30°F] to -34°C [-37°F]).
For extremely cold climates (less than -37°C [-34°F]):
It may be necessary to increase the coolant concentration above 50%.
NEVER increase the coolant concentration above 60%.
Maximum coolant concentration is 60/40 for cold weather areas.
A coolant concentration of 60% provides freeze point protection down to -50°C (-58°F).
Engine coolant concentration above 60% decreases the overheat protection characteristics of the engine coolant and may damage the engine.
For extremely hot climates:
It is still necessary to maintain the coolant concentration above 40%.
NEVER decrease the coolant concentration below 40%.
Minimum coolant concentration is 40/60 for warm weather areas.
A coolant concentration of 40% provides freeze point protection down to -26°C (-15°F).
Engine coolant concentration below 40% decreases the corrosion and freeze protection characteristics of the engine coolant and may damage the engine.
Vehicles driven year-round in non-extreme climates should use a 48/52 to 50/50 mixture of engine coolant and distilled water (freeze protection -31°C [-30°F] to -34°C [-37°F]) for optimum cooling system and engine protection.
Select the maximum heater temperature and blower motor speed settings. Position the control to discharge air at A/C vents in instrument panel.
Start the engine and allow to idle. While engine is idling, feel for hot air at A/C vents.
NOTICE: If the air discharge remains cool and the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) gauge does not move, the engine coolant level is low and must be filled. Stop the engine, allow the engine to cool and fill cooling system. Failure to follow these instructions may result in damage to the engine.

Start the engine and allow it to idle until normal operating temperature is reached. Hot air should discharge from A/C vents. The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) gauge should maintain a stabilized reading in the middle of the NORMAL range. The upper radiator hose should feel hot to the touch.
Shut the engine off and allow the engine to cool.
Check the engine coolant level in the degas bottle and fill as necessary.
Repeat the previous 4 steps as necessary.