Drivetrain problems

Discussion in 'Drivetrain, Exhaust and Electrical' started by Bjorn Laukenmann, Oct 9, 2017.

  1. Bjorn Laukenmann

    Bjorn Laukenmann TMO Beginner

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    Hello all,

    This weekend at Autoclub at the end of the 3rd head my drivetrain started making noise and shortly after the car started pulling to the right side when shifting and a clean clunk noise came from the rear. I pulled off and looked under the car. The two things I could see were a bad bushing on my BMR LCA arm on the left side. 2nd was the rubber or plastic boot in the middle of my two piece driveshaft had a hole and grease was everywhere around this area. I loaded up and when home. Car is on the lift and I put both of my OEM LCA on. I took the bolts out at the middle piece of the driveshaft and the end but can`t get the middle piece to de-attach from the rest. Any ideas?. I also pulled both axles and the Torsen. Does anyone know how to test the Torsen? I could find any pieces broken off or so. I called BMR and they are sending new bushing.

    Thank you for any tips. Any help will be much appreciated.
     
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  2. Grant 302

    Grant 302 OPM Spent: $247,855 Moderator

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    I wouldn't take the 2-piece driveshaft apart. Just remove the whole thing.

    I wouldn't put that LCA back in either, but I wouldn't use a urethane bushing in the LCAs for road course use.
     
  3. Bjorn Laukenmann

    Bjorn Laukenmann TMO Beginner

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    Thx @Grant 302
    So rod end on both side?
    Ok I'll take the whole thing out.
    Do you think the LCA in the picture will make a lound clunk noise and the car will be push to the side after shifting?
     

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  4. Grant 302

    Grant 302 OPM Spent: $247,855 Moderator

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    I think that failed bushing could easily make a loud clunk or thunk sort of noise. One failing would easily create sideways movement. I'd expect it to.

    Just my opinion, but rod ends, rubber bushings, del-sphere, or poly-ball should all work okay. Do you have arms with urethane bushings on both ends or just one? How old are the arms and how many track days. For those that do use urethane, I'd suggest routine maintenance and replacement of the bushings.
     
  5. Bjorn Laukenmann

    Bjorn Laukenmann TMO Beginner

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    Thank you @Grant 302. I have polyurethane on one side on rod on the other. I have around 10 track days on them and they're under one year old. I got the whole driveshaft out but Ford is not selling the part. Any idea were I could get the rubber or platice boot in the picture?
     

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  6. VoodooBoss

    VoodooBoss Rick Moderator

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    I believe you replace the whole driveshaft. Did you have any smoke? Also what year is your car? It came with a five year and 60,000 mile warranty and if still covered the DS should be replaced under warranty.
     
  7. Bjorn Laukenmann

    Bjorn Laukenmann TMO Beginner

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    Yes there was smoke for a short time. It's a 2013 Boss 302 with 12k miles but my warranty just ended last month
     
  8. BigTaco

    BigTaco TMO Race

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    Bjyorn, the factory drive shafts are not really meant to be serviced (unfortunately). You should look at getting a new driveshaft. I would suggest a one piece aluminum from ford Performance or Spicer. Good luck.
     
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  9. Bjorn Laukenmann

    Bjorn Laukenmann TMO Beginner

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    Thank you @BigTaco. I think I got it fix. For the driveshaft it was just a small hole. I filled it with grease and wrapped it with rubber and then electric tape. All it does at that point is sliding back and forth(no joint) right? The reason I don't wanna buy a new driveshaft is that my boss will be retiring within the next year because I bought a GT that I'll make a track only car and the boss a street only car again. Anyway I put everything back together, installed the OEM LCA and test drove it down the street and everything seems to be good. I'll let you guys know how Buttonwillow went after this weekend. Thx again @Grant 302 & @BigTaco
     
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  10. M91196

    M91196 TMO Intermediate

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    I replaced my stock 2 piece (in 14 TP) at 2500 miles with aluminum Spicer.
    If you decide you want an OEM one, let me know, I'm sure we can figure out something.
     
  11. Grant 302

    Grant 302 OPM Spent: $247,855 Moderator

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    I don't know that electrical tape will handle the driveshaft RPM when you get over 80 or 100 mph. How fast was your test drive?

    Good luck at Buttonwillow and welcome to TMO!
     
  12. TymeSlayer

    TymeSlayer Tramps like us, Baby we were born to run...

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    If only you lived closer. I have two spare OEM driveshafts one with 200 miles the other with about 1200. Both are in great condition but just sitting in the rafters in my basement. Have the 3.5" one piece Alum DSS on the car now.
     
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  13. Grant 302

    Grant 302 OPM Spent: $247,855 Moderator

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    Hillbank in Irvine might have a customer's take-off available if you're lucky...
     
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  14. Bjorn Laukenmann

    Bjorn Laukenmann TMO Beginner

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    Thank you guy for all the reply`s, it`s highly appreciated. I`ll keep it in mind, in case my fix doesn`t last. The electrical tape is just to keep the rubber tape from drying out and it kinda melds together with rubber tape. I put it on against the rotation so it hope it holds. If not the rubber tape won`t go anywhere I`ll report after this weekend. Damn Hillbank has some nice car for sell. I`ll have to swing by there soon. Thank you for the tip.
     
  15. ArizonaBOSS

    ArizonaBOSS Because racecar. Moderator

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    The factory driveshaft boots let go with sustained high speed use. I went through three factory driveshafts before getting a Dynotech 1-piece
     
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  16. Bjorn Laukenmann

    Bjorn Laukenmann TMO Beginner

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    Shit! I don`t like to hear that. So the bolts in the rear in the diff yoke brake off?
     
  17. Grant 302

    Grant 302 OPM Spent: $247,855 Moderator

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    Not the bolts! Just the rubber boot that you got a hole in.
     
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  18. ArizonaBOSS

    ArizonaBOSS Because racecar. Moderator

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    This. Nothing wrong with the bolts. But once that center boot lets go, the carrier bearing there will no longer have lubrication. It's only a matter of time after that until the carrier bearing fails and then you will have a very expensive (and unsafe) problem if it happens at speed. I have not experienced this, I have always just replaced the driveshaft(s) when the boot (inevitably) blows up. Go Dynotech, you won't regret it.
     

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