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S197 3V Fabman's build; How did we get here? Build Thread

Fabman

Epic Contributor
3,200
2,261
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
W2W Racing
20+ Years
Still trudging forward. Piece by painful piece.
Got most everything plumbed up as much as I can without the motor being in there.....time to make the transplant.

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This doesn't look too well planned. Thanks MMR.

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Man, I want to go racing so bad I can taste it.
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Black Boss

TMO Addict
1,901
1,806
Michigan
Really nice work!

Yea, the MMR loop is very tight for package.

I just ditched mine. Had an engine rebuild at nearly 60 hours, with a broken valve spring and some evidence of blow by on #8.

Added the MMR in an attempt to reduce temps and burned #8 after 26 hours. Same gas, same tune and Dyno shows A/F rich. I can’t conclusively blame the coolant loop, but I’m not risking it again.
 

Fabman

Epic Contributor
3,200
2,261
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
W2W Racing
20+ Years
Really nice work!

Yea, the MMR loop is very tight for package.

I just ditched mine. Had an engine rebuild at nearly 60 hours, with a broken valve spring and some evidence of blow by on #8.

Added the MMR in an attempt to reduce temps and burned #8 after 26 hours. Same gas, same tune and Dyno shows A/F rich. I can’t conclusively blame the coolant loop, but I’m not risking it again.
Shaun from AED isn’t impressed with them either. He says that nothing actually flows through them so therefore they do no good...I’m wondering now if I should just delete it before the motor goes in. That crank sensor would be impossible to change once the motor is installed.
 

bob

TMO Race
242
151
sfo
Shaun from AED isn’t impressed with them either. He says that nothing actually flows through them so therefore they do no good...I’m wondering now if I should just delete it before the motor goes in. That crank sensor would be impossible to change once the motor is installed.
I never understood the why of the bypass. Was it only a good idea of a solution looking for a problem?
 

Fabman

Epic Contributor
3,200
2,261
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
W2W Racing
20+ Years
I never understood the why of the bypass. Was it only a good idea of a solution looking for a problem?
Not super familiar with these Coyotes yet, but I am learning.
Back in the day we took a tap from the back of small block Chevy heads to run water past the exhaust valves....so I imagined this would be similar, but hooking them together didn't make much sense to me....but what do I know?
 

Coz

TMO Addict
962
748
Philly Metro Area
HPDE
3-5 Years
I never understood the why of the bypass. Was it only a good idea of a solution looking for a problem?
The cylinder head temp sensor is near #4 on the other bank and doesn't pick up the temp on the #8. It ithinks that the temp at #4 must be the same across the board. I believe I've read that there is no water jacket around the intake port on #8 so it may run hotter as a result.

I guess it would be a relatively simple matter to put a flow meter on it to see if it indeed does flow.

If it wasn't so inaccessible once the engine is installed, a temporary piece of clear tubing would show it too. Maybe some day if someone has their Coyote on an engine dyno that could be something to test.
 

steeda5

TMO Race
235
119
Im a little late to your page Fabman. Thank you for sharing. Your duct work on your radiator /oil cooler is amazing. Cant wait to see what you think about your coyote swap once its on the track.
 

Fabman

Epic Contributor
3,200
2,261
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
W2W Racing
20+ Years
Making mounts for @Albino500 Kevin's modified electrical harness. This small panel replaces the gigantic stock fuse box.
The factory 3v ECU (left) will control the ABS while the Ford Performance Control Pack ECU (mounted under the hood) will handle the power plant. Everything else is stand alone. Mounting panel and ECU are on standoffs so there is a nice air gap all around to minimize heat transfer from the sheet metal into the electrical components.

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