- Exp. Type
- W2W Racing
- Exp. Level
- 20+ Years
Todays project was an oil cooler mount.
The stock hood latch bracing was blocking access to the top of the radiator and there just didn't seem to be a good way to build a nice tight shroud that goes all the way to the top, so like a bad tooth, it had to come out.
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I Hacked that section off and made a plate from .062 cold rolled steel that welded to the bottom of the open channel and spanned the distance from the grill all the way back to the radiator in one fell swoop. This will give me a nice flat platform to mount the cooler bracket and ducting to. I removed the paint via wire wheel but TIG welding this was a real chore.
Seam sealer kept seeping out from between the layers of factory sheet metal and attacking my tungsten.
I did a rudimentary pass and then after all the poop burned up I went back over it with a wire brush, re welded it, and was ultimately able to make a half decent connection. Had I to do it all over I would have MIG welded it.
MIG is far less fussy about paint and seam sealer and other icky stuff.
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I boxed in the top to make a nice stiff structure. The cooler mounts are welded to the bottom.
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I bent the last inch of the top plate at a 60* angle to reach all the way up to those last two rows at the top of the radiator.
I paid for those suckers and I'm gonna get my use out of every last one of them.
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Rubber edging seals the top plate to the radiator and keeps metal to metal contact at bay.
I built the top plate and cooler mount on the bench and installed it as one piece.
I'm getting too old to lay on my back and weld stuff upside down so a little planning made this a piece of cake.
The tubing is 3/4" x 1 1/2" x .062 so its plenty stiff and super light.
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I wanted to mount the cooler in 100% rubber so I used studded rubber isolators and made the bracketry so that the cooler sat on top of them instead of loading them sideways or hanging from them. It was a lot of extra work but I feel much better doing it this way. Sticky backed neoprene foam strip on the end tanks seals it to the radiator and prevents any unplanned metal to metal contact.
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It would have been a lot easier to hang the cooler upside down with the lines at the bottom but that's a good way to trap air in the system and also when it drains back into the pan it would give a false fluid level so that was out. I also looked at hanging it sideways as the plumbing would have been much easier but again, I didn't want it draining back into the pan and I just didn't like hanging those isolators sideways so I went the extra mile and took this route. A side benefit is that the box tubing will make a nice frame to attach a duct within a duct that feeds the cooler. Thanks @captdistraction for your write up detailing the effectiveness of a separate dedicated duct as I would probably have just stuck it in the wind and sent it.
There is just enough room above the cooler for a pair of 90* hose ends and it will just peek into the bottom portion in the grill. The bulk of airflow will feed from the lower opening at the bottom of the nose.
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A good straight shot to the cooler. I'll dream up some ducting to maximize this later.
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That 60* bend and rubber edging mates up nicely to the top of the radiator and by golly I got full use of ALL the rows.
I would have had to make a separate filler panel to do this and it would have been difficult to finagle it around all the little factory bumps and curves and still get a good seal so making this all in one piece worked out well.
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I whipped up a bracket to mount the computer for the Ford Performance control pack where the windshield washer would be. We cleaned out (actually Kevin @Albino500 cleaned out) most of the factory wiring. The stock computer and a tiny fuse box will be mounted inside the cockpit. There are far less circuits in the system now so we can maximize space by substituting the big stock fuse box with a much smaller one. So far as I know, no one has figured out how to make the ABS work with only the Ford Performance control pack so there is going to have to be 2 computers and two fuse boxes.
Might as well make it tidy as possible.
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I popped the grill on and it looks like nothing happened. Sweet.
Next project: Ducting! Stay tuned.
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948? I dunno, it's the big one. lol.Somehow I managed to double quote the original post, so I edited to remove the duplication.
Nice work. I have been thinking about adding an oil cooler to my car and this has been a great help in deciding how to do it. Which Setrab cooler did you use and how did you run the lines?
948? I dunno, it's the big one. lol.
I haven't run the lines yet, I'm just boxing in the duct now so stay tuned....
This one?I was looking at a packaged cooler from Cool Tech, but it mounts with the lines on the side. I didn't think about the oil draining back down until I read your thread. Now I am leaning toward piecing together my own set up using yours as inspiration. Next time I have the nose off I will start measuring.
This one?It looks super easy. It also looks like they have a few different sizes.This is air to oil cooler that has been designed for the 2012+ Boss 302 and 2011+ Ford Mustang GTs. This Oil Cooler Kit is intended for both street and track driven Mustangs. As of June, 2017, this kit has been upgraded to include theromstatic control at a great price point and a simplier install!!www.cooltechllc.com
It's not cheap, but its a kit so everything is there and you don't have to d!ck with it.
I do everything the hard way because I obsess over details that sometimes don't matter, and I have a fab shop so I like to make everything my way, even if its only 10% better. Plus I'm using all -12 hoses and there's no kit for that mongo sized stuff.
That kits is pretty tempting, i wouldn't let the drain back thing bother you. Again, I worry about stuff that sometimes doesn't matter. Hell, I see people mounting these things upside down. It says right in the Seatrab instructions "DO NOT mount it with the hoses at the bottom" yet people still do and they seem to be getting away with it so I wouldn't make it hard on yourself just because I did.
That is the kit I was looking at. I am sure they route the plumbing so the oil flows bottom to top to avoid air bubbles. I don't have a complete fab shop, but I do have enough tools to make my own brackets. I am not a professional by any means, but I like to play when I can. I made my own seat base to install the Cobra seat. I didn't like any of the ones commercially available and was going to have to modify one to get what I wanted. If I have to modify a commercial one I may as well make my own. I haven't made any decisions yet. I need to replace the radiator soon. I am still running the stock radiator at almost 10 years old and I occasionally have temperature issues when I go to the track and the temperature is hovering near 100. When I tear it down to replace the radiator I will look more at the oil cooler.
This looks similar, but way cheaper:That is the kit I was looking at. I am sure they route the plumbing so the oil flows bottom to top to avoid air bubbles. I don't have a complete fab shop, but I do have enough tools to make my own brackets. I am not a professional by any means, but I like to play when I can. I made my own seat base to install the Cobra seat. I didn't like any of the ones commercially available and was going to have to modify one to get what I wanted. If I have to modify a commercial one I may as well make my own. I haven't made any decisions yet. I need to replace the radiator soon. I am still running the stock radiator at almost 10 years old and I occasionally have temperature issues when I go to the track and the temperature is hovering near 100. When I tear it down to replace the radiator I will look more at the oil cooler.
Thanks, I had not seen that one before. The price is better, but the cooler is quite a bit smaller and it uses a generic Setrab bracket that may require some fabrication per the description. If I have to do some fabrication I may as well make my own. The price on Setrabs and thermostatically controlled sandwich plates are pretty good right now. It looks like I can piece a kit together myself and make brackets for several hundred less than the Cool Tech kit. I just need to tear into the car and figure out how I want to mount it. Then I can decide which series/size cooler to order.This looks similar, but way cheaper:Many of our customers, friends and fellow track day drivers run this kit on their track cars. It's proven to keep temps under control even in the extreme heats of summer. Most of the credit goes to the Setrab 25 Row Series 6 oil cooler who's quality and brand speaks for itself and is the chosen...roadrace1.com