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Ford Racing ARP Wheel Studs Install

After seeing Gary break a wheel stud I ordered a set for my car. The factory ones are just not made for constant wheel swaps and I have been doing many. I called CJ's since they were not listed on the site but got the M1107A, M1107B Ford Racing kits special ordered $93 each shipped. Each contains 10 studs for the front and rear. You also need 4 sets of M1012G lugs.

There is a right way and the other way to do almost anything and the right way to install these is with a press. Pounding these out you take the risk of hurting the wheel bearing. I was going to do this at the dealer but after they arrived the box was staring at me for over a half hour, I could not control myself any longer. So I went to pull just one wheel to see how hard they would be to remove.

I was shocked how easy the old studs popped out, I used little force and the first one popped out first try. It did not even damage the old wheel studs, in fact not one all the way around. You do have to be careful to not hit it too hard and hit them straight on, if not it can contact the ABS sensor ring and damage them, especially on the rear wheels.

I used old lugs loosely installed at the end of the stud with the flat side out. One medium blow to loosen it and then lightly tap the rest out.
CIMG2463.png
CIMG2464.png
CIMG2465.png

Then just replace with the new stud, turn the lug nut around so the flat side is facing in and use an air gun to seat them. I also gave each one an extra check with a 1/2 breaker bar.
CIMG2462.png
CIMG2466.png

All in all fairly simple job to do using few tools anyone can do. One less thing to worry about now at the track Most time consuming part was lifting the car and pulling the wheels, oh and finding more space to store more spare parts
CIMG2467.png

Going to run the car on the street and check wheel torque after the have the chance to heat up and settle in.
 

drano38

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Per Scott's request, FRPP/ARP stud swap info. Got them from CJ Pony for about $185. They don't keep them in stock, but shipped 6 days after I ordered.

I used Drew's trick to knock them out. Hardware store trip for sacrificial nut and lug nut. Spun nut on w/in ~1/2" of hub, put on sacrificial lug nut, grabbed 3 lb dead blow BFH, and smacked them out. Most popped out with 1 or 2 strikes. Some took more. The rear stud heads are much closer to the ABS ring than fronts, so adjust stop nut accordingly.
Here's pics:
20120128141629.jpg


Front stud out.
20120128141809.jpg


To pull new studs in, I went to the hardware store and got a 5/8" inside diameter by 1" long steel collar and a washer (1" long water pipe nipple may work also). Slid those over the stud, then used the impact to pull them in. I don't have a long impact socket, so I used a spark plug socket, and needed the steel collar for the long studs.
JScheier recommended putting grease between the nut, washer and steel collar if I remember right.
Here's the rear hub showing collar, washer, nut:
20120131193807.jpg


Done:
20120131193914.jpg


20120131201649.jpg


Yep, look like everyone's photos ;D
 

JScheier

Too Hot for the Boss!
I actually use two hardened washers with grease between them. Slide that over the stud, then spin the 'sacrificual' lug nut on and hit it with the air gun. Works like a charm.
 
On a stock 2013 LS, I'd like to point out that front wheel stud installation is not as straightforward as presented here. I don't see any opening in the brake shield for the front wheel studs to be removed (and new studs to be installed).

The 2013 brake duct kit (M-2004-MBA) requires removal of the brake rotor and caliper. So I will combine brake duct installation, dba 5000 rotor installation, and speed bleeder installation, with the wheel stud replacement (likely over Thanksgiving weekend).

If I have the brake rotor off, and assuming I have access to a 20-ton press, would it be easier to remove the hub and press out the old studs and press in the new studs, or should I go at it with the BFH technique described here? ??? ??? I think I'll start with the hammer, and will report back. ;D ;D
 
LS 330, welcome to BMO. There are no differences between the two years regarding the wheels and ARP installations. It's assumed that if you're installing the stronger studs you've already removed the dust shields and/or have installed the brake cooling kit. There is no reason to remove the hub and the studs will pop out quite easily with a 5 lb. sledge hammer using the technique described here.

One thing I've noticed since installing mine is how tight the wheel nuts stay at the track compared to the stock studs.

IMG_1638.jpg
 
In one pic it looks like the calipers and rotors are removed. In another pic it looked like the rotor was still on.
Can you do this without taking anything but the wheel off? I have the cooling ducts up front and have removed the dust shields in the rear.

After the news from chuckwalla I'm going to install these (been here since Xmas)
 

steveespo

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You can install them with just wheels off. Have to spin the rotors to the clear area to remove and reset the studs. Once you look at it it will become obvious. I used a closed to lug nut threaded about 4 turns on and hit them with a dead blow hammer to knock them loose. Take off lug nut and tap them the rest of the way. Remove old one from behind and set new one back in through the hub or axle flange. I used 1/2"-20 nut and 2 large 1/2" washers with anti seize on them as lubricant to pull them back in. Used my impact wrench and lug socket but you can use a ratchet or breaker bar. Check to see that the new studs bottom our on the hub flanges on the backside. Takes about an hour.
Steve
 

drano38

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I have a short memory, and I replaced the studs about a year ago . . .
But I think I removed the front rotors because I was swapping them out anyway.
Rears were changed with rotors on.
An air or electric impact makes pulling new ones in very easy.
 
Keavdog said:
In one pic it looks like the calipers and rotors are removed. In another pic it looked like the rotor was still on.
Can you do this without taking anything but the wheel off? I have the cooling ducts up front and have removed the dust shields in the rear.

What Steve said, I left the rotors on since they can be replaced easier then a hub if I screwed up and missed or something like that. It also gives you extra room on the stud when tighting and if you ding up the rotor hat it will be junk in a few more track days anyway, right?

Just remember not to go nuts with the hammer. One medium size blow should loosen them and then tap out. You will damage the stud if you do not hit hard enough and have to repeat this several times, no biggie as it is best to discard the studs, I have reused studs without probelm but use caution. You can damage the hub by not doing this correctly and hitting them too hard, if fact doing it this way is wrong. However it can work as proved by many people here.

One last thing to add to what Steve said is after tighting the studs go out for a drive and come back and check them all a second time or at the very least check the lug nut torque.
 

ace72ace

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How much torque does the impact wrench need to get this job done? Been looking into buying 'an affordable' compressor setup, there are a gazillion choices out there, found this one at Costco;

http://www.costco.com/Primefit%c2%ae-Ultimate-Garage-6-Gallon-Air-Compressor-%2526-52-piece-Air-Tool-Set.product.11678135.html

"Item # 603430

Features:
Air Pressure Operating Range-85 to 115PSI. Impact Wrench features a max torque of 230ft/lbs and 7,000 RPM's."

A friend of mine also told me that it's around Fathers Day that you will get the best sales for these as well from Sears, Lowes, etc.
 

steveespo

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ace72ace said:
How much torque does the impact wrench need to get this job done? Been looking into buying 'an affordable' compressor setup, there are a gazillion choices out there, found this one at Costco;

http://www.costco.com/Primefit%c2%ae-Ultimate-Garage-6-Gallon-Air-Compressor-%2526-52-piece-Air-Tool-Set.product.11678135.html

"Item # 603430

Features:
Air Pressure Operating Range-85 to 115PSI. Impact Wrench features a max torque of 230ft/lbs and 7,000 RPM's."

A friend of mine also told me that it's around Fathers Day that you will get the best sales for these as well from Sears, Lowes, etc.
That gun will get the studs pulled in. Remember to not over torque them. It's a feel and visual thing give the nuts short bursts and look at the back of the hub to see that the new stud knurls are bottomed out. Once they're set no more impact gun.
For a quality impact gun seek out Ingersol Rand, I have had my impact wrench and air impact ratchet for 28 years without a problem. Just use a quality air tool oil, a few drops before each use is all you need.
Steve
 

PeteInCT

#LS-378 - So many Porsche's, so little time....
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Sometimes a breaker bar is the right tool. Air tools won't provide the feedback you may want when pulling the bolts in.
 

drano38

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+1 on Steve's comment to be careful with the impact. Like he said, watch the back side of the hub as you pull them in, when close, stop. Install wheels, torque lug nuts, drive around the block, torque again. Repeat torque after a few more short drives until they don't move. They'll fully seat pretty quick.
I used a cheap electric Harbor Freight, and it had no problem.
 

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