The Mustang Forum for Track & Racing Enthusiasts

Taking your Mustang to an open track/HPDE event for the first time? Do you race competitively? This forum is for you! Log in to remove most ads.

  • Welcome to the Ford Mustang forum built for owners of the Mustang GT350, BOSS 302, GT500, and all other S550, S197, SN95, Fox Body and older Mustangs set up for open track days, road racing, and/or autocross. Join our forum, interact with others, share your build, and help us strengthen this community!

Ford Racing ARP Wheel Studs Install

After seeing Gary break a wheel stud I ordered a set for my car. The factory ones are just not made for constant wheel swaps and I have been doing many. I called CJ's since they were not listed on the site but got the M1107A, M1107B Ford Racing kits special ordered $93 each shipped. Each contains 10 studs for the front and rear. You also need 4 sets of M1012G lugs.

There is a right way and the other way to do almost anything and the right way to install these is with a press. Pounding these out you take the risk of hurting the wheel bearing. I was going to do this at the dealer but after they arrived the box was staring at me for over a half hour, I could not control myself any longer. So I went to pull just one wheel to see how hard they would be to remove.

I was shocked how easy the old studs popped out, I used little force and the first one popped out first try. It did not even damage the old wheel studs, in fact not one all the way around. You do have to be careful to not hit it too hard and hit them straight on, if not it can contact the ABS sensor ring and damage them, especially on the rear wheels.

I used old lugs loosely installed at the end of the stud with the flat side out. One medium blow to loosen it and then lightly tap the rest out.

Then just replace with the new stud, turn the lug nut around so the flat side is facing in and use an air gun to seat them. I also gave each one an extra check with a 1/2 breaker bar.

All in all fairly simple job to do using few tools anyone can do. One less thing to worry about now at the track Most time consuming part was lifting the car and pulling the wheels, oh and finding more space to store more spare parts

Going to run the car on the street and check wheel torque after the have the chance to heat up and settle in.


Hobbies: Hot Rods & Shooting
I too have installed the ARP wheel studs...They make for a great addition and add peace of mind. But there are a few tips you should consider before doing this install.

Driving the studs out is very easy, just a few taps with a 3lb hammer and they are out. Remember to install a old lug nut on the stud, to keep it from getting messed up. Also, the wheel speed sensor is mounted just behind the hub assembly. This is much easier to damage on the rear wheels, as it sits much closer to the hub. Do not knock the wheel studs out over this sensor, and be careful when turning the hub, with the wheel studs not all the way in. Just a quick note to keep you from buying a new sensor you didn't have to purchase.

Also, when drawing in the stud, there are few thing you can do to help the action. First, never draw the studs in with an impact wrench....yes there ate some that have done it that way, but it is wrong. You only need a ratchet with a long handle or a breaker bar, in 1/2" drive. Generally a deep socket in 7/8" , 13/16" or what ever size Lug nut you have. Apply antisize to the threads and then spin on the lug nut, this will keep the threads from gulling, notice some photos posted, those shinny bright threads have galled. Just a light coating, will do. I do this a lot, so I have a bearing that allows the lug nut to turn freely, while tightening the lug down to the stud. If you have on, great, if not they are for sale in hard war stores. Simply tighten the lug nut till it get real tight. Stop and inspect the rear of the hub, to see if the stud has seated onto the back side of the hub, fully. If so, remove the lug nut, and go to the next one, if not, continue to tighten till it has fully seated. This does not require all that much effort. The 1/2' breaker bar allows you to turn the bar (lug nut) with just a couple fingers, it goes that easy.
One more tip...when you insert the stud in from the back of the hub, take some time and try to index the ribs of the stud, into the ribs made by the last stud which was removed. You can turn the stud, and feel the engagement slots, Aline them with those on the stud, while keeping in mind, the flat part of the seat, has to face toward the hub center. It's pretty basic stuff, just a reminder to use the already cut knurling.

The antisize is very important, I have seen studs installed without the use of this substance and they not only gall, but allow the stud to stretch on the loaded threads, causing a week spot on the stud and a difficult section to thread the lug nut over.

The best way to install these studs, is to remove the hub, and use a press to insert the studs with....because this is a pain in the rear, most choose to pull them in with the lug nut, this will work, but the threads need to be protected from a dry, difficult pull.

Enjoy the new wheel studs and be safe.

TMO Supporting Vendors