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Ground Control CC plates

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It's really too bad. I always liked GC stuff but heard bad things about them here and there.
This is definitely one thing which will keep me away from their camber plates. And I 2nd Grant's opinion.
It is not worth the risk. Especially on a part that is part of a macpherson strut! That stuff is all structural!!
 

pufferfish

Supporting Vendor
1,094
66
Maryland
I have been a production engineer for many years and I am puzzled by this GC bolt plate. There are press in studs with broad, flat heads with a 10.9 classification (metric equiv. of a grade 8 bolt) that would save the weld effort and grind effort and since they come pre-finished, you can zinc plate the bracket prior to pressing the studs in. These are not obscure items only found on space ships. They are basic manufacturing hardware used in production all the time...even at ford!

The fact that they continue to have this issue is even more astounding! Fix your shiznit already, Ground Control!

Rant over...
 
modernbeat said:
The issue is that they can't use a stud with a head because they designed the bolt ring to be too close to other components and the perch will touch the bolt head. So instead they grind off the heads and then they pull through. I don't know why they don't revisit the design and do it right. This issue has been going on for far too long.
In my album, you'll see some pictures that have a metric scale held up to certain areas of the camber plate. The is room for a larger flage on the bolt. There is room for a thicker bracket. There is room for larger studs.
 
Since the hard plastic grinding seems to cause a little bit of a hissy here and there I will shy away, however maybe I can modify the plates or use the plates as is. If they don't break then I won't worry about it.
 
To explain the grinding idea if you look at the plates they don't touch the hard plastic. Two small spots where it doesn't touch would be where I would remove it to allow for a larger bolt head.
 
pufferfish said:
I have been a production engineer for many years and I am puzzled by this GC bolt plate. There are press in studs with broad, flat heads with a 10.9 classification (metric equiv. of a grade 8 bolt) that would save the weld effort and grind effort and since they come pre-finished, you can zinc plate the bracket prior to pressing the studs in. These are not obscure items only found on space ships. They are basic manufacturing hardware used in production all the time...even at ford!

The fact that they continue to have this issue is even more astounding! Fix your shiznit already, Ground Control!

Rant over...

You mean something like a wheel stud?
 
Brandon302 said:
To explain the grinding idea if you look at the plates they don't touch the hard plastic. Two small spots where it doesn't touch would be where I would remove it to allow for a larger bolt head.

You would have to grind the full circumference around the plastic perch. The perch should turn with the steering, and will slightly wind up as the spring goes through it's stroke. So it's not just two small spots that will need clearancing, it's the entire ring around the perch.
 

Domestic Product

Big fat tires and everything !
I went with Vorshlag plates on the Boss. Could not be happier. My car is lower , stiffer but rides and drives (steers) better then stock. Way better. I would return them and get the Vorshlags if you can.
I had ground controls on my 95 M-3 and had no problems with them.
 
modernbeat said:
You would have to grind the full circumference around the plastic perch. The perch should turn with the steering, and will slightly wind up as the spring goes through it's stroke. So it's not just two small spots that will need clearancing, it's the entire ring around the perch.

I don't think that is right as the rubber spring perch is what swivels and the CC plate sits inside the hard plastic which doesn't rotate.
 
The upper plastic ring with the cross-patterned-ish reinforcements stays stationary. The bearings are betwwen the ring ang the lower, rubber isolator (which has a hard plastic retainer as well). So, "modifying" the upper ring would only be required in the specific areas needed.
 
MountainGT said:
The upper plastic ring with the cross-patterned-ish reinforcements stays stationary. The bearings are betwwen the ring ang the lower, rubber isolator (which has a hard plastic retainer as well). So, "modifying" the upper ring would only be required in the specific areas needed.

That's what I was thinking, if the CC brackets end up pulling studs through then I will just put larger studs in and modify the hat.
 
Just finished installing mine and had the car aligned, -1.5* and 0 toe. I am very glad with the way it all turned out.
 
Brandon302 said:
Just finished installing mine and had the car aligned, -1.5* and 0 toe. I am very glad with the way it all turned out.
Good to hear!

I had mine sent back to Hypermotive for them to inspect and send back o GC. Hopefully I'll get a refund. I'll probably just go for Vorshlag when I decide to upgrade again.
 
MountainGT said:
Good to hear!

I had mine sent back to Hypermotive for them to inspect and send back o GC. Hopefully I'll get a refund. I'll probably just go for Vorshlag when I decide to upgrade again.

Hopefully you get your money back at least. I would have loved to get the Vorshlag pieces but the extra 139 could not be made up in my bank account.
 
Old thread, but I figured I'd post a little update.

Ended up getting Maximum Motorsports caster- camber plates after speaking with Rehagen (great guys by the way). Very impressed with the quality! I just put them in the other day and they are just as quiet as the Steeda Heavy Duty mounts. Steering seems to feel slightly more responsive too...
 
MountainGT said:
Old thread, but I figured I'd post a little update.

Ended up getting Maximum Motorsports caster- camber plates after speaking with Rehagen (great guys by the way). Very impressed with the quality! I just put them in the other day and they are just as quiet as the Steeda Heavy Duty mounts. Steering seems to feel slightly more responsive too...
Good to hear you got something good. I have had no issues with mine still and I do agree that the steering feels more responsive, I think though now the play is in the A arms.
 
As some might have experienced there is an inner clearance issue with wide front rims
They tend to touch the coil over/strut body if you set some negative camber between the knuckle and the coil over or strut body...
That said, if you have to set your camber only at the top of the mount which camber plate brand would give you enough travel to have a maximum of camber?
I have the steeda and although it is a very nice piece of equipment its travel seems limited...
 

pufferfish

Supporting Vendor
1,094
66
Maryland
yeah, i just put the steeda on too and couldn't get more than -2.5, so i had to employ the dreaded camber bolts to get the -3 i was after. i'd also be interested in finding out which ones offer more adjustment.
 

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