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How to remove or change side pipe restrictor plates

Tools needed. 15MM wrench and 15MM socket and ratchet(I used a deep well so I wouldnt have to use an extension)
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Step one raise vehicle I used a set of car ramps from the front or rear I choose the front this time
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Step two remove the two nuts at the flange and the bolt that holds the tip near the rocker panel edge
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Step Three remove the side pipe assembly
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Step four remove stock restrictor plate (if not installing a different sized plate skip to step six)
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Step five install new sized restrictor plate (3/4" plate shown in picture)
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Step six re install side pipe by first slipping over studs on flange then threading the rear bolt and loosely tighten bolt and nuts. check clearance you should be able to get you hand around the pipe from front to back adjust as necessary. Once clearance is good tighten all nuts and bolt down and recheck clearance.
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Step seven repeat steps one-six for opposite side then lower vehicle and you are done. now wasnt that easy?
 

Justin

Save the dawn for your dishes!!!
2012YellowBoss said:
Nice job, I am going to copy this over to the my disc thread if you don't mind.
copy away my friend. I have a garage full of tools over 8k and no write up I wont tackle. I wont pay anyone to do something that I can do. plate swaps is childs play lol
 
boss2511 said:
2012YellowBoss said:
Nice job, I am going to copy this over to the my disc thread if you don't mind.
copy away my friend. I have a garage full of tools over 8k and no write up I wont tackle. I wont pay anyone to do something that I can do. plate swaps is childs play lol
Please do a write up on an oil temp sensor install.
 

Justin

Save the dawn for your dishes!!!
5 DOT 0 said:
boss2511 said:
2012YellowBoss said:
Nice job, I am going to copy this over to the my disc thread if you don't mind.
copy away my friend. I have a garage full of tools over 8k and no write up I wont tackle. I wont pay anyone to do something that I can do. plate swaps is childs play lol
Please do a write up on an oil temp sensor install.
have you ever done a older vortech supercharder install? I dont have one to install but I would go about 2inches up the side of the pan on the side and center punch a spot. then drill a 1/8" hole. put grease in the flutes of the drill bit to catch shavings. the up a center punch to expand hole and fold back the steel of the pan to the slightly smaller than the sensor. then use a tap the thread pitch and diameter of your sensor again pack the flutes with grease to catch the shavings. and tap. install sensor using orange silcon high high temp sealant and wire as per directions. after you are done drain oil and fill back up.
 

Justin

Save the dawn for your dishes!!!
5 DOT 0 said:
Thanks. What some are doing is adding a T to the existing oil pressure sensor hole so you can mount both sensors. But it's not easy to get at down by the oil filter.
for the temp I would go in the pan as the pressure line flows to fast to get a stable reading but both would accomplish the same end goal
 

jec246

I'm curious. It's been a few months since I took mine out. I thought the plate was between the two pads. It'd just make sense to me. I can't really remember exactly. Would that possibly cause rattling?

Anywho, Nice job on the writeup! Thanks!
 
boss2511 said:
5 DOT 0 said:
Thanks. What some are doing is adding a T to the existing oil pressure sensor hole so you can mount both sensors. But it's not easy to get at down by the oil filter.
for the temp I would go in the pan as the pressure line flows to fast to get a stable reading but both would accomplish the same end goal

Sometimes you can get fillplugs with a temp sender built in, my old car had one from the factory. They go nuts when you drive through a puddle though
 
Joe BOSS said:
I'm curious. It's been a few months since I took mine out. I thought the plate was between the two pads. It'd just make sense to me. I can't really remember exactly. Would that possibly cause rattling?

Anywho, Nice job on the writeup! Thanks!

No the gaskets will not cause a rattle. You need to check the clearance of the side pipes to the floor board. You will need at least 3/8 of an inch or they will (may) be too close to the floor and cause the rattling.
 

Justin

Save the dawn for your dishes!!!
2012YellowBoss said:
Joe BOSS said:
I'm curious. It's been a few months since I took mine out. I thought the plate was between the two pads. It'd just make sense to me. I can't really remember exactly. Would that possibly cause rattling?

Anywho, Nice job on the writeup! Thanks!

No the gaskets will not cause a rattle. You need to check the clearance of the side pipes to the floor board. You will need at least 3/8 of an inch or they will (may) be too close to the floor and cause the rattling.
yeah my passenger side was rattling. if it wouldnt have got the clearance I needed I was going to stack washers between the floor board and rubber mount then bolt it back up.
 

Justin

Save the dawn for your dishes!!!
Nice2BEtheBOSS said:
Great write-up! What kind of ramps are you using?
Thanks. rhino ramps that I picked up from advanced auto. I like the ramps much quicker than jacking the car up and putting it on jack stands.
 
boss2511 said:
Nice2BEtheBOSS said:
Great write-up! What kind of ramps are you using?
Thanks. rhino ramps that I picked up from advanced auto. I like the ramps much quicker than jacking the car up and putting it on jack stands.

Any front splitter clearance issues when driving the car onto the ramp? Also, can you back the rear onto the ramp or are rear tires too wide?
 

Justin

Save the dawn for your dishes!!!
Nice2BEtheBOSS said:
boss2511 said:
Nice2BEtheBOSS said:
Great write-up! What kind of ramps are you using?
Thanks. rhino ramps that I picked up from advanced auto. I like the ramps much quicker than jacking the car up and putting it on jack stands.
Any front splitter clearance issues when driving the car onto the ramp? Also, can you back the rear onto the ramp or are rear tires too wide?
I had no clearance issues with the spilter had about a 1/2" clearance. I had it up on the rear as well and it works just fine (put it up on them so I could polish the exhaust tips and not sit on the ground lol)
 
Took the advice and got a ratchiting wrench and took the plates out, drilled to 5/8. Took about 1/2 an hour. Sounds much better! I may have to go to 3/4 becauase the wife didn't even notice the difference.
 
Hambone said:
Took the advice and got a ratchiting wrench and took the plates out, drilled to 5/8. Took about 1/2 an hour. Sounds much better! I may have to go to 3/4 becauase the wife didn't even notice the difference.

3/4 is a great sound, not loud at all.
 

Justin

Save the dawn for your dishes!!!
2012YellowBoss said:
Hambone said:
Took the advice and got a ratchiting wrench and took the plates out, drilled to 5/8. Took about 1/2 an hour. Sounds much better! I may have to go to 3/4 becauase the wife didn't even notice the difference.

3/4 is a great sound, not loud at all.
+1
 

Justin

Save the dawn for your dishes!!!
BossJockey said:
2012YellowBoss said:
3/4 is a great sound, not loud at all.

This.

But beware that once you go 3/4" or bigger you will hear the exhaust all the time. Not that it is a bad thing, there is no annoying drone.
yeah I have the 3/4" and I like that I can be stealthy if I want to. :)
 

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