Keeping it original - or new parts...

[DEye]

Had the car parked on the street and Grandma backed straight into the drivers side door.
A very small crease in the front fender, a more significant dent in the door about 8 inches back from the gap.
So should I go for all new parts , or get the parts on it repaired to keep it *original* ?
( for future value )

 

[So Boss]

Sorry to hear.

I would keep factory original sheetmetal. Insist for quality repair.

 

[four-walling]

Pictures would be helpful. I have seen a dent removal specialist take a foot long depression out of a vehicle. If the damage is too big for a dent guy, you might consider replacing the door skin-it is inexpensive and will pass the "magnet test", i.e., the door won't be full of bondo.

Can't think of any benefit to keep the door skin the car came with from the factory, especially one full of bondo.

 

[jneary]

I would try to get the originals worked out and re-sprayed. Each part has a registration sticker which I would try to preserve. Make sure you take it to a high end body shop. Second choice would be Ford factory replacement parts. It doesn't sound to me like a really good body shop couldn't save your original panels though.

 

[four-walling]

I would try to get the originals worked out and re-sprayed. Each part has a registration sticker which I would try to preserve.

It has been many years since VIN# stickers have been mandated for body panels. That requirement is gone.

However, SOME manufacturers still put VIN#'s on body panels even though it is not required.

Ford does not put VIN# stickers on body panels, at least for the Boss Mustang anyway...

 

[jneary]

The genuine ford stickers are all over my boss. Those are what I am referring to.

John

 

[pufferfish]

Unless I am mistaken, any claim that goes into insurance is logged and follows the vin, so it doesn't matter what you do. Personally, I would rather have straight panels with no bondo, than original panels riddled with the stuff.

 

[steveespo]

Good body man can do the metal work right up to using only a skim coat of filler just to smooth the skin for primer/surfacer application. No reason you will be riddled with Bondo unless you let it happen. The deailing require to replace a door skin properly will result in a more obvious repair inside the jambs, either fix the original if possible or do a complete door shell. Junkyard take offs are probably available in your color and might only need a respray to replace. The fender if not easily fixed can be relaced with a Ford original for $138.
Steve

 

[four-walling]

essential tool when purchasing a pre-owned vehicle

vehicles with bondo or any kind of body filler need not apply

 

[steveespo]

Re: essential tool when purchasing a pre-owned vehicle

vehicles with bondo or any kind of body filler need not apply

You'd be surprised how much you might find on a "factory" new car. You don't think they replace entire panels if a car is damaged at the factory, on the Ramp or in transit do you. My friend repairs 3 or 4 brand new Porsches a month from the 3 dealers in my area from lot or transport damage and they don't disclose unless required by law, up to $5000 in NY.
Steve

 

[four-walling]

California statute:

V C Section 9990 Motor Vehicles Material Damage

Motor Vehicles: Material Damage

9990. For purposes of this chapter, damage sustained by a motor vehicle is material under any of the following circumstances:

(a) The damage required repairs having a value, including parts and labor calculated at the repairer's cost, exceeding 3 percent of the manufacturer's suggested retail price of the vehicle or five hundred dollars ($500), whichever is greater. The replacement of damaged or stolen components, excluding the cost of repainting or refinishing those components, if replaced by the installation of new original manufacturer's equipment, parts, or accessories that are bolted or otherwise attached as a unit to the vehicle, including, but not limited to, the hood, bumpers, fenders, mechanical parts, instrument panels, moldings, glass, tires, wheels, and electronic instruments, shall be excluded from the damage calculation, except that any damage having a cumulative repair or replacement value which exceeds 10 percent of the manufacturer's suggested retail price of the vehicle shall be deemed material.

(b) The damage was to the frame or drive train of the motor vehicle.

(c) The damage occurred in connection with a theft of the entire vehicle.

(d) The damage was to the suspension of the vehicle requiring repairs other than wheel balancing or alignment.

Added Ch. 1373, Stats. 1990. Effective January 1, 1991.

 

[BLAZN BOSS]

make the car new with new sheet metal...............if your worried about future value keep the old sheet metal in the attic..............if these cars become valuable then you still have them.

 

[DEye]

Thanks for all the input, it will either got to the local Ford dealer that sell th Boss and Cobra, GT, or a Hot Rod shop,I've dealt with before.

The thing that bothers me most is that you never get the same adhesion, as factory applied paint.
Got an excellent paint job on one car after hitting a Dear, new hood, door, etc.... First stone tore a hole in the Paint, took it back, they were like that's what happens...

 

[four-walling]

The thing that bothers me most is that you never get the same adhesion, as factory applied paint.

Go to a high end paint shop and you will be happy.

They will be able to match an excellent or crappy OEM paint job just right.

 

[2012-Boss]

You want new sheet metal. Any serious collector would want new OE sheet metal unless:

1. VIN or other ID is stamped in the panel
2. Replacement tool marks from the stamp and dies are different than the production run
3. OE sheet metal is not available, or the OE panels are factory rejects / seconds (a big concern with 40 year old NOS parts in the restoration world)

Stickers of any sort with vehicle specific information is not worth worrying about now. By the time a sticker impacts value you can probably by a reproduction that is exact to factory specs.

I agree in part with Steve, a good metal worker can fix most damage with barely a skim coat of filler needed to smooth any waves in the panel. The problem is that they are almost nonexistent these days. Just ask you body guy for an explanation of when he would lap weld vs. butt weld a panel.....

Body shops are a volume business. Even good shops that do quality work are not going to take the time to work a panel back to near OE shape. They will get it somewhat close and throw on the filler. With the new fillers, an 1/8" of mud will almost never crack, peel, or delaminate.

In summary, new metal or you know damn good and well you shop is better than most.

 

[DEye]

Another idea that came to mnd last night was look for a junk yard YB drivers door, that wasn't on the impacted side ?

 

[BLAZN BOSS]

Another idea that came to mnd last night was look for a junk yard YB drivers door, that wasn't on the impacted side ?

your car is Yellow Blaze?.................good luck finding one

 

[boss man]

DITTO what he said.

 

[2012-Boss]

I re-read Steve's post about the door skin and completely agree. Either repair your door or get an entire new one. If done properly, a re-skin will cost just as much as a whole new door.

 

[Grant 302]

your car is Yellow Blaze?.................good luck finding one

I had the same thought as the OP. YB wouldn't be as bad as CO...at least they made some GTs in YB.