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M5 or L8 compound for Mickey Thompson ET Drags

Justin

Save the dawn for your dishes!!!
Now that I am going to a shorter tire I have been reading the the med compound M5 tires are the better option for the heavy stick cars like the boss. Can anyone confirm this? Right now I have L8 compound. MT states that this is better suited for automatics and the M5 is better suited for heavy stick cars. Seeing how only a handfull of people drag race their boss my hopes of getting an answer is very low but figure I would ask. These are the tires I am probably going to purchase
http://www.jegs.com/i/Mickey-Thompson/672/3053S/10002/-1?parentProductId=
 
28x10.5x15 MT Slick no stiff-wall is all you need for a slick. I've been running that tire for years. This size tire will require a 15x10 wheel and the rear swaybar relocation brackets. I highly recommend the Weld RT-S wheels. SFI & DOT billet wheel made in the states.

Running a slick will also put more tension on your stock driveshaft so swapping to a 1 piece is highly recommended.

Do not worry about the compound rating and all those numbers. If you run slicks and with your gear ratio, this is the tire you will want.

If your car is in stock forum and nothing removed, it's not going to help like you think though. You will want to run a skinny up front (17") M&H sell a good DOT skinny too. I would also do suspension/chassie mods so your car transfer the weight properly.

LCA's, Adj UCA with mount, Adj Panhard Bar, Panhard Brace are the basics you can do. And trust me, it will make a difference

Next step would be subframe connectors (you will loose your side pipe), swaybar delete brace, camber bolt, ect.
 

Justin

Save the dawn for your dishes!!!
I have 28" tall slicks now. The car sucks with them mid track and further.

I have a DSS driveshaft
I have BBR lca's
I disconnect the sway bar at the track
Looking into an UCA and bracket.
Never gave much thought to the Panhard bar or its brace (the brace is a flimsy turd)

I really am not going to do anything that makes a permenant modification to the car like sub frames. Basically if requires cutting metal or welding its not happening. I am not running to win heads up racing just want to go a little faster than I did with stock CAI and tune and the 27/11.50x17 ET Streets on stock 06 wheels test and tune only really.

I am not going to run a 15x10" wheel period. I dont want to cut the car for the relocation bracket. I already have darkstar wheels for the rear. Going to go with there 17x4.5 for the front when money allows. (doing it in stages) Weld RT-S wheels are way to rich for a wheel for me. I love the way the look just not their price.

I am going to go with MT ET Drags 26/10x15 with the M5 compound.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Mickey-Thompson/672/3053S/10002/-1?parentProductId=
I will look into the panhard bar and brace. Thanks.
 
Your not cutting anything of importance with the relocation brackets. It's a metal tap on the rear end that is not used for anything.

If your on a 17 or bigger with 28" slick then yeah, I can see you having issues. Your car is not set up for them either. A ET street will be fine with a bigger rim but again, you will not get the end result you are looking for without a proper chassie set up.

Once thing to watch out for with the race stars that if they are multi lug, you will start to strip out your lug nuts over time and have replace your wheel studs as well. Happens to everyone. One reason I got away from them.


A BMR Adj UCA with bracket will set your pinion angle for a better transfer. The panhard bar and brace will also also more alignment and give you a better launch. All of these items will be a huge help for you. If you have stock springs, then you do not need the LCA reloaction brackets as well.
 

Justin

Save the dawn for your dishes!!!
Your not cutting anything of importance with the relocation brackets. It's a metal tap on the rear end that is not used for anything.

If your on a 17 or bigger with 28" slick then yeah, I can see you having issues. Your car is not set up for them either. A ET street will be fine with a bigger rim but again, you will not get the end result you are looking for without a proper chassie set up.

Once thing to watch out for with the race stars that if they are multi lug, you will start to strip out your lug nuts over time and have replace your wheel studs as well. Happens to everyone. One reason I got away from them.


A BMR Adj UCA with bracket will set your pinion angle for a better transfer. The panhard bar and brace will also also more alignment and give you a better launch. All of these items will be a huge help for you. If you have stock springs, then you do not need the LCA reloaction brackets as well.
Not worried if its not used for anything. Just not cutting or modifiying the car in that fashion.

You are mistaken with what I said about the 17" I ran them when stock I was borrowing them. I bought racestar 15x8 direct drill. http://www.americanmuscle.com/racestar-darkstar-15x8-0512.html and on them I have et drags 28/9x15 and ran them and cut only one better 60' then the ET streets when stock vs the lighter wheels and sticky tire and LCA's on a better preped track. Didnt find them as consistant as the ETstreet that had a stiffer side wall. And the gearing was way off from where the car makes power at the top end of the track that the car just wasnt making the MPH that it should have been.

So after a few days of research I have found that people that run the 26" tall M5 compound cut more consistant 60's and the hieght is better suited for the boss or people running the boss intake. And these same people have tried both the L8 28" tall slick you recommended and the L8 version in the 26" tall version. All with sticks prefered the M5 compound over the L8
 
With a 15x8, you might as well buy the new MT 275/50/15 DR pro.

I go by actual using times, not what people post when it comes to tires bud. I have used just about all of them and with a slick, unless you are set up and use a 28, theirs no point.

For you, a MT or Hoosier DR is all you need. I just recently sold my slicks to run the new MT 275. Watching guys cut 1.2 60' and trapping over 200mph is amazing!!!

But like anything else, without proper chassie / suspension. you will NOT see the results you want.
 

Justin

Save the dawn for your dishes!!!
With a 15x8, you might as well buy the new MT 275/50/15 DR pro.

I go by actual using times, not what people post when it comes to tires bud. I have used just about all of them and with a slick, unless you are set up and use a 28, theirs no point.

For you, a MT or Hoosier DR is all you need. I just recently sold my slicks to run the new MT 275. Watching guys cut 1.2 60' and trapping over 200mph is amazing!!!

But like anything else, without proper chassie / suspension. you will NOT see the results you want.
only way this 28" slick will work for me is to swap to 4.30 gears. its not getting out of the hole thats the problem. its the mid part of the track suspension is done working for me at that point so I cant see how 26 is not the way to go when the car dies on the 2-3 gear change and I am shifting into 4th around the 1000 mark. all the while the motor is laboring to push the car when this wasnt an issue when I ran the 27" ET Street (not the radial version) and the inconsistant hit one time good to go next it spins like its on marbles. same burnout for both.

Whats the set up for a 28"? Why not go with the 26? the 275/50-15 comes to be right under 26"???
 

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