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2018 Coyote Truck Motor at 7500 RPM or More

57
50
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Raytown, MO
So, my 2011 Mustang GT (Stock motor except Boss 302 intake and tune) tried to send a rod through the oil pan back in October. I have not touched anything yet but expect to find some carnage when it happens. I got a line on a truck motor from a 2018 F-150 with 100,000 miles on it and a cam phaser issue. I plan on using the short block for the rebuild and swap the accessories and cams (assuming they are not damaged) and intake from the 2011 motor. Also being replaced are the oil pump gears (Boundary billet), oil pan (Moroso road race), and flywheel (Lethal Performance). I am not very familiar with newer gen Coyotes so I was hoping to find out if the heads will need replacing. Also, it would seem prudent to replace the bearings with new. Would Boss 302 factory bearings be adequate or should I look for something better? Back to the heads, I'm thinking a new set of valve springs would be good preventive maintenance and I have been told that Boss 302 followers will handle higher RPM well. The car is used for Time Trials and occasionally on the street for getting gas. To stay in my current class, I need to limit RWHP to 400 - 410 so I don't need a full race motor, it just needs to be reliable. It should be able to handle higher RPM's than the stock motor (7500 all day long). Am I on the right track with the previously described upgrades?

20221021_234100.jpg
 
If it was me I'd want to identify the failure reason first and work backwards. Did the engine have a catastrophic breakdown due to lack of oil, bad tune, or did you have a high RPM/money shift failure? Pointing you in the right direction hinges on the answer, since it would also paint a picture on the health of other components.

Common Frankenbuilds are 3(block)-2(heads)-1(timing/phasers), since you'd need to retain the original timing gear for your computer since Gen 2 and up moved to a different methodology of managing the phaser. Gen 2 heads are mostly to take advantage of the Boss upgrades that came natively in that head, but I think you can use Gen 1 heads as long as you use the correct Gen 1 head gasket (same with the Gen 2 heads if you go that route, too). Gen 1 gaskets have a smaller VCT oil provision compared to later years. 2011 used 12mm bolts for the heads (phased out mid-2012 to 11mm and shorter depth, back to 12mm and full depth in 2018), so they should work fine with 3rd gen stuff as well.
 
57
50
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Raytown, MO
Failure was as follows. I was at RPM (Raceway Park of the Midlands, Pacific Junction, IA) on October 15. Weather was in the 50's on my 4th session of the day, maybe halfway through. I was coming into turn 7 at around 100 mph (4th gear, 3.73 rear end) when I heard a pop and a lessening of power, so I backed off and coasted through the turn and turn 8, then down to the flag station at turn 9 (off the racing line) where I pulled off in the grass and shut the motor off. The smoke show behind me was significant, white, and very thick. No idea what had happened at the time. After being towed back to the paddock, I gave the engine a quick crank and it turned over without protest. The picture with the first post shows where the hole in the oil pan is. There is likely still some oil in the pan but I don't know about metal chunks or shavings. A fellow driver mentioned that he heard knocking from the grandstands between turns 11 and 12 on the previous lap so that may be a factor. Also, I have been fighting a cam position sensor issue for most of the season that sends the motor into either a mild or a more severe limp mode. IIRC, that had not happened that day. It was on my list of things to fix in the off-season. It was not a mis-shift that caused the failure as I was not shifting at the time. It should not have come from lack of oil (unless there is another failure I am not aware of in the oil pump, stock) as I was in a straight section of the course. The current tune has been on the car for the last two or three years since I installed the Boss 302 intake.

Regarding the 2018 engine. Since it came from a truck, are the heads different than the Mustang or just the cams? The person I bought the motor from said something about direct injection capability but I'm sure the computer would not know what to do with that. If I don't need to swap the heads, is there anything I need to do about the direct injection assembly?
 
A fellow driver mentioned that he heard knocking from the grandstands between turns 11 and 12 on the previous lap so that may be a factor.
If it was knocking, that would lead me to believe it had a low oil failure leading to accelerated bearing wear. The only concern would be if it was knocking it means it's more likely the cams and head journals are scored. Since you're going to need to do it anyways, I'd suggest dropping the engine and doing a full post-mortem and identify what the health of your components are. You'll want to cut open your oil filter and check all the pleats for metal. If you do find excessive metal and have an oil cooler, you'll probably need a new one else you risk metal particulates that came to rest in the cooler going through a new engine. 2018+ Coyote engines have dual injection, using both conventional port injection and direct injection. Your stock computer won't be able to run the direct injectors or anything newer then Gen 1 phasers. So if your Gen 1 heads are in good health, you can carry those over (why the teardown becomes important). I've seen some other custom engine builders block DI provisions with plugs to just run port fuel injection, but I'm not sure if that's something that has been done on a Coyote yet. The base head is the same part number between the truck and Mustang Coyote, but most people I've seen do a block swap into an earlier Coyote car use something pre-2018 for their heads.
 

xr7

TMO Addict?
560
605
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Minnesota
I would add a good set of aftermarket connecting rods
Would also love to see some photos of the carnage once you open it up. That con rod sticking out of the pan is interesting.
I had a van in my fleet, early 90's Econoline, towed in because the drive said it had a knock, still runs, a little rough. Large hole in the oil pan and a piece out of the block. No exploratory surgery, straight to the auction.
 
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5,757
6,882
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
If I remember correctly @Fabman had an old truck motor in frankenstang befor the rebuild. Atleast that’s what I thought I read I would talk to him
Not a truck motor. Just a junk yard GT motor.
 
10
22
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Michigan
I just completed building my Gen3 short block into an aluminator clone after it spun a rod bearing. New cranks are cheap through Ford, they are forged and very capable. Manley rods, Mahle Motorsports pistons, and good Clevite bearings. Also using the GT500 oil pump and pan kit. For the heads I’m simply upgrading the springs for a bit more RPM and endurance. Using PAC springs.

B16A338C-CAC3-4D8E-99AF-F4407C00F933.jpeg
 
5,757
6,882
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
If it was me I'd want to identify the failure reason first and work backwards. Did the engine have a catastrophic breakdown due to lack of oil, bad tune, or did you have a high RPM/money shift failure? Pointing you in the right direction hinges on the answer, since it would also paint a picture on the health of other components.

Common Frankenbuilds are 3(block)-2(heads)-1(timing/phasers), since you'd need to retain the original timing gear for your computer since Gen 2 and up moved to a different methodology of managing the phaser. Gen 2 heads are mostly to take advantage of the Boss upgrades that came natively in that head, but I think you can use Gen 1 heads as long as you use the correct Gen 1 head gasket (same with the Gen 2 heads if you go that route, too). Gen 1 gaskets have a smaller VCT oil provision compared to later years. 2011 used 12mm bolts for the heads (phased out mid-2012 to 11mm and shorter depth, back to 12mm and full depth in 2018), so they should work fine with 3rd gen stuff as well.
^^^This exactly.^^^
With a good tune, a good pump/pan and the correct oil mods a stock gen 2 or 3 bottom end is plenty strong.
Currently running a stock gen 3 bottom/gen 2 heads with stock valve springs over 500rwhp @8k+ in w2w competition.
The year before I ran a junk yard gen 2 motor with the aforementioned upgrades all year over 8k....no problems.
The key is addressing the things that cause failure and not going crazy with big cams and valve springs.
If 475 to 500 rwhp is enough for you, it can be had with stock parts and will live forever. (well, maybe not FOREVER) lol.
Bad tunes and poor oil control are the #1 killer of these motors. If that's not addressed no amount of hot rod parts can save you.
If 500 rwhp is not enough, then that's a whole other story and it gets expensive fast and life expectancy is diminished.
 
Last edited:
5,757
6,882
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
Correct oil pump mods…curious what you’re referring to? Want to make sure I’m addressing while the motor is still out. Thanks

Basically, zero clearance Crank scrapers, a really good pan/pickup, Billet oil pump gears (I also use a high flow chromoly backplate on the pump) a setrab 948 (949?) cooler with -12 lines (not -10) a Ford performance remote filter adapter for gen 2/3 (not gen one) and a remote filter that flows especially well (some are terrible) Look inside all the A/N Hardware. Some have sharp edges and very tiny holes inside even though the outside looks big. Ask @Mad Hatter about that, he had a -10 fitting with a 1/4" hole in it for the oil to flow through and went through several motors before he discovered it.
Part numbers are in my build thread.
 
5,757
6,882
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
And I almost forgot a modified windage tray.
shaun at AED has them in stock now.
 
5,757
6,882
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
Is he building them or did he order a bunch from that guy that built yours?
The guy that made mine is super slow and can’t keep up with demand so Shaun and Mike Maier have produced copies so people can get them in a reasonable time.
 
902
1,439
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
SoCal
The guy that made mine is super slow and can’t keep up with demand so Shaun and Mike Maier have produced copies so people can get them in a reasonable time.
That’s what I was hoping. After several emails and a couple phone conversations, I gave up that other guy.
 
5,757
6,882
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
That’s what I was hoping. After several emails and a couple phone conversations, I gave up that other guy.
Yeah some people have been waiting for a year for parts they paid for….unacceptable.
 
57
50
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Raytown, MO
So, this is the solution I have come up with. I was talking with Frank at Power by the Hour in West Palm Beach, FL and will be getting their engine control harness for the F-150 motor along with an upgraded fuel hat with larger fuel lines (for return system), a calibrated MAF, and an oil filter relocation kit. The ECU will be tuned for E85 retaining the stock cams and intake. I will likely need to upgrade the injectors but I have not verified that yet. With the E85 and tuning, my goal of 400 - 405 RWHP should be easily attainable and the direct injection will be fully functional. There may be some connections (electrical and/or fuel) that may may need attention but I'll have to take those as they come. Sounds like it should be relatively straight forward.
 
Yeah some people have been waiting for a year for parts they paid for….unacceptable.
Ordered my scraper last April. It was finally ready in late summer but then I decided to get the windage tray mod too because Fabman convinced me it was worth it. Sent the tray and that was the end of my journey. Kevin has serious medical issues so he just can't keep up. I finally gave up and installed the GT500 pan kit stock. Never got my tray back.....had to buy a replacement. Probably best not to order a scraper right now.
 
838
464
So, this is the solution I have come up with. I was talking with Frank at Power by the Hour in West Palm Beach, FL and will be getting their engine control harness for the F-150 motor along with an upgraded fuel hat with larger fuel lines (for return system), a calibrated MAF, and an oil filter relocation kit. The ECU will be tuned for E85 retaining the stock cams and intake. I will likely need to upgrade the injectors but I have not verified that yet. With the E85 and tuning, my goal of 400 - 405 RWHP should be easily attainable and the direct injection will be fully functional. There may be some connections (electrical and/or fuel) that may may need attention but I'll have to take those as they come. Sounds like it should be relatively straight forward.
So you are using a different PCM? That is what is needed for a Gen 3 motor with direct injection in a Gen 1 chassis. How are you going to control / activate the steering rack and retain ABS? Or, are you leaving out part of PBH's proposed solution? When you say PBH recommends and engine harness, retain stock cams, and retain direct injection, I am assuming you are retaining Gen 3 controls and changing the PCM.

For a track car, you really want to retain the ABS (ask Sal about his post-swap brake challenges).

For your horsepower levels, you are making this more difficult than needed. Use the Gen 3 shortblock, swap on your Gen 1 heads with Gen 1 head gaskets or Gen 2 with Gen 2 gaskets. Reuse your current cams if they are not damaged. Install a Ford Performance Gen 1 cam drive kit. Reuse your existing PCM, but get a good dyno tune due to the compression change.

You should probably by new lash adjusters and finger followers (rocker arms). These components set up a wear pattern. If reused, they must be reinstalled exactly where they orginally cam from. In other words, you need to keep track of which bore the lash adjuster cam out of and which finger follower was on top of the lash adjuster.

Install new Boss 302 valve springs.

Do not install new oil pump gears in an old housing. Buy a new OEM pump and install the gears to avoid any wear issues.

Why are you replacing the flywheel?

With the Boss intake and long tubes, you will hit your power goals.
 

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