Maximum Motorsports Relocation brackets/ Steeda Billet RLCA install.

[GaryA]

I am about to install a set of Steeda billet poly/spherical RLCA's with Maximum Motorsports relocation brackets. I have been going over the instructions for each of these pieces, with the MM instructions directing me to take off the rear wheels and place stands under the axle and the Steeda instructions to keep the wheels on and planted as on a drive-on lift. I was wondering what everyone's experience has been as far as the best way to accomplish this install while keeping the differential form moving when the RLCA bolts are removed? Will the arms slide right into place and align in the relocation brackets so the bolts can be placed with possibly just minor alignment with a punch? I will be using upper holes of the relocation brackets as I primarily just want to level the control arms after lowering with the Steeda Boss 302 springs. I do have a drive on lift, and will be working by myself.

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

Hi @GaryA :

From my past experience it's easiest to jack up the rear of the car and set jack stands under the pinch welds so the axle hangs freely in full droop. Then you can use a floor jack (preferably with a block of wood on the pad) to manipulate the axle towards the FRONT of the pumpkin so you can line everything up.

Modify one side at a time. The axle will rotate when you remove either front or rear LCA bolt. You can use the floor jack as mentioned earlier to get the axle back into position very easily. I prefer to attach the RLCA at the chassis side first, then use the jack to get the axle to line up with the desired RLCA bracket hole you are shooting for.

Once you have done both sides, get everything snugged up and then move your jackstands to the axle tubes directly below the spring perches. (Ideally you will also have the front of the car off of the ground to simulate the car's static weight at ride height on the rear suspension). When you have the car loaded at static height, torque everything to spec.

If any of this is unclear please let me know.

 

[GaryA]

Do I need the floor jack's ability to move the pumpkin forward and backward at all, or is most of the movement vertically and rotationally? I was wondering if I could place the stands under the pinch welds, with the rear hanging loose and use a hoist screw jack at the pinion end of the diff, with the car raised on the drive on lift? My old bones have a hard time doing much at floor level these days, though if that will work the best it may be a good excuse to buy that set of 30" high jackstands I have been wanting for awhile anyway!

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

Your method should work just fine. There is limited front-rear translation, mostly you just need to control the rotation by manipulating the pinion end of the pumpkin.

 

[Grant 302]

Hi @GaryA :

From my past experience it's easiest to jack up the rear of the car and set jack stands under the pinch welds so the axle hangs freely in full droop. Then you can use a floor jack (preferably with a block of wood on the pad) to manipulate the axle towards the FRONT of the pumpkin so you can line everything up.

Modify one side at a time. The axle will rotate when you remove either front or rear LCA bolt. You can use the floor jack as mentioned earlier to get the axle back into position very easily. I prefer to attach the RLCA at the chassis side first, then use the jack to get the axle to line up with the desired RLCA bracket hole you are shooting for.

Once you have done both sides, get everything snugged up and then move your jackstands to the axle tubes directly below the spring perches. (Ideally you will also have the front of the car off of the ground to simulate the car's static weight at ride height on the rear suspension). When you have the car loaded at static height, torque everything to spec.

If any of this is unclear please let me know.

Most important advice right there. I remember a friend saying he had trouble getting aftermarket arms and brackets on. Asked him if he unbolted both sides at the same time...and of course it was.

On the lift or on the ground, you need a way to safely manipulate and control the position of the axle.

I think the reason the instructions differ is that you do not need to move things much, and you don't want them to if you are just replacing the arms at the same length as stock. For the brackets, *something* will need to move to get the bolts in.

 

[GaryA]

Thanks guys! I'll post after I get them installed and let you all know it went.