The Mustang Forum for Track & Racing Enthusiasts

Taking your Mustang to an open track/HPDE event for the first time? Do you race competitively? This forum is for you! Log in to remove most ads.

  • Welcome to the Ford Mustang forum built for owners of the Mustang GT350, BOSS 302, GT500, and all other S550, S197, SN95, Fox Body and older Mustangs set up for open track days, road racing, and/or autocross. Join our forum, interact with others, share your build, and help us strengthen this community!

Methods to troubleshoot low oil pressure?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

captdistraction

GrumpyRacer
1,954
1,698
Phoenix, Az
Long story short, I just put a motor in the racecar that was used, but I installed a new boundary oil pump gear set and new oil pan (same moroso model I've used with great success on other motors).

While the motor runs well, I'm certain I have an oil pressure issue. I've got 3 different "sensing" locations in the setup: an oil pressure switch on an accusump, a resistive oil pressure gauge that reads on the dash, and a transducer-based sensor that feeds my race-capture telemetry system and has a digital multistage warning light.

Anyways, at idle, the lights all are in warning states (and telemetry shows not much oil pressure or any, for that matter). If I blip the throttle, I get 25 PSI, can hear the accusump audibly fill with oil, but if I let it idle I hear the accusump discharge and then get the warning lights. Running it on a race course made 85-90 PSI which is great. There's one last issue (that may shed some light) in that on track under heavy G load the oil pressure dropped significantly (as low as .4PSI on track per my telemetry).

A previous event:
RCP - oil.PNG
The current setup (note just shows pressure, map is off):

IMG_1226.PNG

There are a number of contributing factors that can be in play:

Incompetent Mechanic: I did assemble this, I could have made a mistake somewhere along the line. I did take the front primary tensioners off, the oil pickup tube, oil pump and oil pump gears apart and back together. Additionally I installed an oil pan (the said moroso pan), gaskets, oil cooling loop, sensors, etc.

Oil Cooling Loop: I had a setrab 925 cooler core plumbed in with -10AN lines and an accusump system. There's a number of lines, fittings (and one way check valve). That does cost some pressure drop.

Operating Temperatures: during the race, I did see oil temperatures above 300*. Not bueno by any means. I'm not sure how much higher than 300 as that's where the gauge tops out. Water temps reached 230*. Cooling capacity is being improved for going forward. Ambients were 80* near seal level and low relative humidity. However, the oil pressure was low even when cold

G-Forces: On track, some drops definitely came from decel and high G events (lower RPM as well). In the past the motors never dropped so much, however, maybe 20-30 PSI on a rare event but still well over 50. The accusump responds a bit slowly as well (length of hose probably too long)

Motor condition: Not really a lot of stock in this one as the motor made great oil pressure before being put in my hands. That said it had sat for some time and I had used some unusual tricks to try and prime it with oil. I wonder if I did unusual wear during start up as the lifters definitely took longer than I'd have liked to refill with oil (tapping noises persisted the first 30 seconds of run time). However, I didn't notice it burning oil but only have one event (2 races, 1 warmup, 2 qualify sessions I kept fairly short) on it.

oiltemp.PNG

So I'm curious where to start looking for the issue. My next steps are to put the better cooler in place, shorten some lines but some of the things I can try:

  • Bypass the cooling loop and see if pressure improves
  • Install the revised oiling loop
  • Pull the K-member and look in the pan, check for clearances on the rods
  • Check the pan's trap doors
  • Pull the timing covers, check a cam cap
  • Pull the oil pump out, try a different one
  • Check pump pickup clearance to the pan floor
  • Try thicker oil (I run synthetic 5w50)

Thoughts? I need to make this motor last this season and I know with pressure running like this the motor won't survive forever.
 

racer47

Still winning after 30+ years
392
497
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
SE WI
There were some guys on s197forum that complained of low oil pressure with the Boundary gears. I don't remember the whole story but in the end the gears were replaced and oil pressure returned to normal.

300F oil temp is acceptable, not great, but it will live.

I doubt that your initial start up could hurt anything enough to cause low oil pressure. Lifters can take a while to pump up, not a big deal.

I would change the oil pump first since it sounds like that was a brand new sets of gears that were never previously run.

Maybe search s197forum for boundary gears to get better info than my memory.
 
501
550
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Snowy North
Maybe combo of opg design and cooling loop additional volume.

Bypass the loop... take data... then maybe change opgs if loop bypass helps a bit.
 
Last edited:
492
387
DFW, TX
"There's one last issue (that may shed some light) in that on track under heavy G load the oil pressure dropped significantly (as low as .4PSI on track per my telemetry)."

What kind of oil pan are you running?

Will the GT350 pan work?

I can remember running my old car 1.5-2 quarts low on oil with a big 12 qt Aviad pan and I was uncovering the oil pickup in turns. So I just had to delay getting on the gas until the pressure came up. Not ideal during a race.

If the engine isn't under load your not going to hurt it as easily. But accelerating off the corner you will.

Oil pan pickup to the bottom of the pan clearance is important as well.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
 
Ford has quietly changed the pump dimensions on the current pumps. The service pumps run much tighter than the previous pumps (not sure why possibly NVH) and Boundary did adjust the gears to work in both housings. We ran into this with the GT350 Pumps, the gears would not physically fit in the housing. Purchased service Part numbers for both the GT350 and Coyote and found the same issue. They used our pump to redimension everything. The pumping takes place between the inner and outer lobes so I do not believe this is an issue with pressure. Either at low idle the relief valve is bypassing more oil than it should be or there is a suction issue (crack or leak sucking air). The fact that the oil pressure reaches normal range at rpm and being a fixed displacement pump it supplies enough volume to pump 85PSI points to oil bleeding off somewhere or pickup issue. Completely isolate the cooling loop and accusump. Anything external to the engine. Restest with a known good mechanical gauge connected directly to an oil pressure supply port. Cut open the oil filter and inspect the condition of the element, make certain it is intact and not collapsed etc. Not sure if you run remote mount but you need to diagnose the cause in steps before ripping everything apart and guessing. If you could cobble together a some hose and fittings right on the oil filter adapter and measure pressure there at idle you could eliminate everything including the filter (assuming remote mount)
 

captdistraction

GrumpyRacer
1,954
1,698
Phoenix, Az
I direct mount the filter for now with a sandwich plate, so I could pull the lines/plate and test fire it and see if idle improves. I'm pulling the system anyways as the 925 cooler was on loan from @ArizonaBOSS and I have a 948 sitting in the garage. If I have to go all the way into it, I'll pull the whole pump assembly and put the CJ pump in (for time perspective), allowing the boundary pump and the housing I have to be inspected or replaced.

Hopefully I haven't done too much damage to the motor so far. I'll grab the car this weekend and bring it home to start investigating early next week.
 

steveespo

Lord knows I'm a Voodoo Child
Moderator
4,019
1,966
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Cookeville TN
You haven’t damaged that piece. I told you it’s a locomotive. Sum biznitch pulled you to PBs all weekend. That and red mist chasin the 41. I think oil moving away from the pickup was a definite indicator on track during right hand g loads. You mentioned issue at idle too though right? Are you sure o ring was in place on pickup tube?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

captdistraction

GrumpyRacer
1,954
1,698
Phoenix, Az
You haven’t damaged that piece. I told you it’s a locomotive. Sum biznitch pulled you to PBs all weekend. That and red mist chasin the 41. I think oil moving away from the pickup was a definite indicator on track during right hand g loads. You mentioned issue at idle too though right? Are you sure o ring was in place on pickup tube?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah not much of anything at idle. Telemetry would show 0-0.4 psi at idle Cold or hot.

I’m sure that o-ring is there but I’m not above going and looking for it.

Unfortunately my camera roll goes from:

e1a5bd8abe0383797571f666c7fe0a8f.jpg

To

432eacf6565022087eb3343642b97107.jpg
 
Yeah not much of anything at idle. Telemetry would show 0-0.4 psi at idle Cold or hot.

I’m sure that o-ring is there but I’m not above going and looking for it.

Unfortunately my camera roll goes from:

e1a5bd8abe0383797571f666c7fe0a8f.jpg

To

432eacf6565022087eb3343642b97107.jpg

What oil filter are you running?
Please tell me it’s not a Fram.

Did you measure the pan to pick up clearance before assembly?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

captdistraction

GrumpyRacer
1,954
1,698
Phoenix, Az
What oil filter are you running?
Please tell me it’s not a Fram.

Did you measure the pan to pick up clearance before assembly?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Filter is a ford racing 820s

Pan clearance was roughly 1/4” but I did not again measure it so throw that out until I physically check it again.

I feel it’s a supply side issue since low at idle but ok at rpm and drops hard on turns.
 

TMSBOSS

Spending my pension on car parts and track fees.
7,556
5,291
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Illinois
Pan pickup clearance usually shows up as reduced higher RPM pressure. There is enough clearance for low RPm flow but not higher flow. Kind of like a restrictor for volume.
Sounds like the pump would be the place to check first.
Is it possible to check clearance with a scope through the fitting, plug hole?
 
492
387
DFW, TX
Lots of good ideas here. Depending on the oil pan design you may not be able to install it will upside down on an engine stand. The trap doors might get hung or not close while maneuvering the pickup tube.

A crack or gap in the pickup tube is certainly a possible cause for some of your symptoms.

You may have two problems, that are making this hard to diagnose...

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
 
6,402
8,298
How do you measure the pickup depth? the failsafe method is a lump of putty on the pickup and crank the pan down with some crisco in the bottom so the putty doesn't stick. Then remove the pan and measure the putty
 

captdistraction

GrumpyRacer
1,954
1,698
Phoenix, Az
How do you measure the pickup depth? the failsafe method is a lump of putty on the pickup and crank the pan down with some crisco in the bottom so the putty doesn't stick. Then remove the pan and measure the putty

That’s how I normally do it. Since parts came apart and went back together I skipped it but regretting that.

Thursday and Friday I’ll pull the pan and have a look.
 
That looks like the Moroso pan I just bolted on to my car while I had the K member down. Figured why not improve oiling when on track. Was I supposed to check clearance? Thought is was a bolt-on and meant to fit the stock hardware.
 

captdistraction

GrumpyRacer
1,954
1,698
Phoenix, Az
That looks like the Moroso pan I just bolted on to my car while I had the K member down. Figured why not improve oiling when on track. Was I supposed to check clearance? Thought is was a bolt-on and meant to fit the stock hardware.

It is for the most part, but good practice to check. I only ever had to adjust it on a custom motor that used arp studs near the pickup tube.
 

TMO Supporting Vendors

Buy TMO Apparel

Buy TMO Apparel
Top