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Need Help with Pulling Power for QTP Electric Cutouts

I'm installing my QTP electric cutouts on my 2013 Boss and trying to do everything right. I'm pretty good at the mechanical side but not so confident about the electrical.

What's the best was to pull power to the switch? The instructions say NOT to run the hot wire directly from the battery to avoid possible drain when the car is off, but instead to pull from a switched circuit that is off then the key is off.

I've read about Add-a-circuit (Add-a-fuse?). Is that a good and safe way to pull power? My understanding is that this adds a fuse in an unused location in the fuse box. Is that right? What would be a good unused fuse location to use?

Help is appreciated. So far I think I've done a top notch install and don't want to screw this part up.
 
There is an unused 6 pin female plug under the console that has switched power. The plug is used for cars with automatic transmissions to light the gear select indicator light. The plug has two rows of 3 pins. The middle pin in the bottom row has switched power you can used to power the QTP Electric Cutouts. There is also a solid black wire for the ground connection.

The six pin matching male plug can be bought at the Ford dealer parts counter. The plug comes with 6 pins and six wire pigtails. Just wire to the QTP wiring harness and plug it into the spare 6 pin female plug for a factory plug and play solution.

The Ford part number for the 6 pin male plug is: 3U2Z-14S411-NBA

The same plug is available as a Motorcraft part: WPT444



some picture links of a QTP install the show the unused 6 pin female plug were posted on The Mustang Source back in Nov 2011:

Originally Posted by elo_70 10/18/11, 10:20 PM "Remove The Discs"


Updated - 2012 Boss 302 QTP Electric Exhaust Cutout Install information:

Photo story:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=it0NpvBZwHc

Live sound:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RZoLHsOrd-o

Static Pictures:
http://2012boss302qtpelectriccutouts.shutterfly.com/pictures/8

Slideshow:
http://cmd.shutterfly.com/commands/pictures/slideshow?site=2012boss302qtpelectriccutouts&page= 2012boss302qtpelectriccutouts/pictures&album=8
 
Thanks for that info Cherno. My local Ford dealer is supposed to have the plug for me on Friday. They tell me the part number has been superceded and is now 3U2Z-14S411-NBB. We'll see. The price went way down so hopefully that is correct.

Now I need to figure out how to get the console out.

Found a console removal video here....http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ua2Zlx1gozs :)
 
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The extra port on the 13 is different than the 12 and that plug wont fit. I just went through this on my 13. The spare plug in my console had more than 6 pins, and none of them were switched 12v. I ended up just pulling power off the power port in the console. Its not switched but I have had no current drain issues with my cutouts. I would only worry about current drain if using the wireless kit with the cutouts.
 
JB said:
The extra port on the 13 is different than the 12 and that plug wont fit. I just went through this on my 13. The spare plug in my console had more than 6 pins, and none of them were switched 12v. I ended up just pulling power off the power port in the console. Its not switched but I have had no current drain issues with my cutouts. I would only worry about current drain if using the wireless kit with the cutouts.

How did you access the port and how did you tap into it? Also, where did you mount your switch (or did you use the remote)?
 
I finally found a switched fuse - it's position #34 (5A) which the manual says is for 'stability control.' I can pull off that fuse with a mini Add-a-circuit like this.....

http://www.littelfuse.com/~/media/Files/Littelfuse/Technical%20Resources/Documents/Data%20Sheets/FHM02FHA02.pdf

I'm a little hesitant to pull off the stability control circuit. Is there any chance it could mess anything up?
 
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I cant see how it would cause a problem to pull off of tht fuse, its just power and not some type of communications. I mounted my switch on the ebrake adjuster cover in the center rear console box. I used a quick splice to get power off the power wire going into the back of the power plug in the console box.
 
JB said:
I cant see how it would cause a problem to pull off of tht fuse, its just power and not some type of communications. I mounted my switch on the ebrake adjuster cover in the center rear console box. I used a quick splice to get power off the power wire going into the back of the power plug in the console box.

Thanks JB.

I sent QTP a note last evening and just got a reply saying that contrary to their printed instructions it is NOT important that the power source be switched, so now I have lots of options. I'm a little miffed but very appreciative that they are answering e-mails on a holiday.
 

unrealford

Mustang owner since 84
521
0
Isn't there a spot in fuse panel that's open for convertible cars. My last car I tapped into that.
 
unrealford said:
Isn't there a spot in fuse panel that's open for convertible cars. My last car I tapped into that.

I was kind of surprised but some of the wiring seems to have changed from 2012 to 2013. The plug under the center console is different (I did check it and found no power) and the only switched fuse location I could find was stability control #34 location.

I ended up just doing as others have mentioned and tapping into the center console power port. I put my switch on the side of the console next to the parking brake so that was a very handy spot to connect.
 

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