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Opti-Coat

Looks good but what is it?

You need some BMO stickers for your side windows to finish off your look. ;)
 
Looks really good Sammy. Opti-Coat is kind of like a sealant but lasts way longer. Basically a clear coat that you apply by hand. They say lifetime, but about 18 months are what people are getting out of it. CQuartz is another like it but Opti-Coat lasts longer.
http://www.autogeek.net/optimum-opti-coat.html
 
Opti-Coat is a resin based polymer. Cquartz is a sillica coating. But if you want the best in terms of strength I would have to say 22ple.

http://www.detailersdomain.com/22ple-VX1-PRO-Glass-Coat-30-ml_p_861.html
 
Looks great Sammy. A few questions:
1. Do you have wax or anything over the opti-coat?
2. Any problems using it over the stripes?
3. Did you apply it yourself?
4. If not -- who applied it and what was cost?

I do not keep my BOSS washed and waxed as much as I should. This might save her from my semi-neglect.
-- Jim
 
YellowJacketBoss302 said:
Looks great Sammy. A few questions:
1. Do you have wax or anything over the opti-coat?
2. Any problems using it over the stripes?
3. Did you apply it yourself?
4. If not -- who applied it and what was cost?

I do not keep my BOSS washed and waxed as much as I should. This might save her from my semi-neglect.
-- Jim
1. No, you just wash it after it sets. No waxing for up to 5 years.
2.) none whatsoever
3.) No I didn't
4.) Rejuvenators Detailing in Gulfport, MS. Cost was $200 (I got the "friend" discount"

Sammy
 
Sammykjr1 said:
1. No, you just wash it after it sets. No waxing for up to 5 years.
2.) none whatsoever
3.) No I didn't
4.) Rejuvenators Detailing in Gulfport, MS. Cost was $200 (I got the "friend" discount"

Sammy
you can still wax and seal over a coating. And eventually you will get surface imperfections in the coating, so you'd be best to seal and wax it.
 
I'm going to post something that the detailer who actually did it put on over at Boss302forum.com. He knows more about it than me.


Hey guys!
This is Antonio with Rejuvenators Detailing. I had the pleasure of working on Sam's Boss and applying Opti-Coat. Thank you Sam for your kind words and recommendation.

I figured I would hop on here and clear up any misunderstandings or questions anyone has about Opti-Coat.
First off, it appears some of the links are wrong.
Optimum's main site is http://www.optimumcarcare.com/
They have a forum @ http://optimumforums.org/
You can buy most of their products @ http://optimumforums...x.php?app=nexus
The main site for Opti-Coat is http://www.opti-coat.net/index.php Check here to find a dealer
The link Sammy provided is for the European Distributor, which is why no US dealers are listed
Opti-Coat is a permanent coating made by Optimum Polymer Technology for virtually all non-porous vehicle surfaces. This means it is safe for paint (clear coat and single-stage), metal, and most plastic. This would also include your wheels, which I highly recommend having coated. Opti-Coat is NOT a wax, sealant or glaze. It is a permanent, ceramic coating that actually adds a measurable thickness to your paint. Opti-Coat can be removed only by abrasion (compounding or sanding) or VERY strong chemicals (none of which have any business being anywhere near your car or your body for that matter).

Opti-Coat comes in 2 types: the original Opti-Coat Pro (sometimes referred to as Opti-Guard by some) and the consumer grade Opti-Coat 2.0. The only functional difference between the two is that the Pro version is more concentrated and has a faster cure time. Opti-Coat Pro is only available to professional detailers who have been instructed in application methods and have signed liability forms. Applying Opti-Coat isn't rocket science, but you do have to know what you're doing and pay attention or you'll screw up and have to polish it off and start all over.

Because of its permanence it is highly recommended that any paint imperfections or blemishes be corrected prior to installation. Once you're coated, you're stuck with it. It also requires that the paint surface be 100% clean and free of any oils, waxes or other contaminants. Otherwise it will not adhere properly and will not last.

Once your vehicle is coated, it will not need any kind of wax or sealant. I do know of some people who still wax their coated vehicles. Some for therapeutic reasons, other because they like the look of certain waxes. This is fine and will not affect the coating as long as the wax does not contain any abrasives. However, because of Opti-Coat's repellent nature, nothing will stick very long and will not add any protection.

Opti-Coat, when cured, is harder than your actual paint, making it scratch-resistant. Notice I said "resistant" and not "scratch-proof". It is still important to practice good wash techniques and not be careless with your paint. Opti-Coat certainly isn't a force-field for your paint, although it's close!

I am an authorized installer of the Pro grade Opti-Coat and am the only one in my area. I applied the Pro grade Opti-Coat to Sammy's Grabber Blue Boss 302

The Warranty: Optimum sells Opti-Coat Pro to its installers in 2 ways: a bulk 40cc syringe and a single-use 10cc syringe with its warranty program. The warranty pack includes a folder and a warranty card, which you register with Optimum on their Opti-Coat site www.opti-coat.net. When applied to new vehicles within 12 months of registration, the warranty is for the life of the vehicle, non-transferable. For used vehicles (and I need to verify this) it is a 5-year warranty. Here is the warranty page http://www.opti-coat...5/warranty.html

The Cost: The cost of Opti-Coat has recently been raised to almost double. Even in bulk, the raw cost of Opti-Coat can be as high as $70. When getting the warranty pack, the cost is even higher. This does not include the cost of materials needed to do the proper prep work. I did indeed cut Sammy a deal on his car (basically at-cost) as I still had some Opti-Coat I had purchased at the lower price, and let's be honest, I really wanted the opportunity to show off an Opti-Coated Boss 302. Also, Optimum has strongly recommended a Minimum Advertised Price for Pro Installations so as not to dilute the value of the service and have detailers cutting each others throats with their pricing.

My pricing is now in line with the industry and Optimum's recommendations:
$395 for small vehicles (this includes Mustangs)
$445 for medium (full size wagons, compact SUVs, compact trucks)
$495 for large (Vans, full-size trucks, full-size SUVs)
Pricing does not include prep. Prep for new vehicles needing only decontamination and light polishing is $95. Vehicles needing more extensive polishing to remove swirls, scratches and heavy oxidation starts at $145

I hope this is helpful to anyone who was wondering about Opti-Coat. Feel free to ask me any questions or to contact Optimum directly. They're really nice folks. Plus what other company do you know of where the CEO will talk to you directly about your questions?

End of his words.

If anyone is in the Southeast, I can give you the contact info.
 

Justin

Save the dawn for your dishes!!!
killerwill13 said:
Opti-Coat is a resin based polymer. Cquartz is a sillica coating. But if you want the best in terms of strength I would have to say 22ple.

http://www.detailersdomain.com/22ple-VX1-PRO-Glass-Coat-30-ml_p_861.html
which is easier to apply?
 
Justin said:
which is easier to apply?
I'm still waiting to try 22ple, but I'd say opti coat is a bit easier.. I'm only saying this because silica is pretty much liquid glass so you need to be paying lots of attention and care to the product and tools your using.
 

Justin

Save the dawn for your dishes!!!
killerwill13 said:
I'm still waiting to try 22ple, but I'd say opti coat is a bit easier.. I'm only saying this because silica is pretty much liquid glass so you need to be paying lots of attention and care to the product and tools your using.
can either be applied over the decals?
 
Justin said:
can either be applied over the decals?
honestly I'm iffy on that. Everything I've seen says yes. But I prefer to apply two layers of quality sealant and then two-four layers of high quality wax. This is because silica and resign are a lot more durable and fundamentally they are a whole new layer of solid matter over the clear coat and stripes. Which freaks me out because that means it could cause damage to the stripes because it is fused to it. Just my opinion on that. I'm open to treating all the paint then following the whole car with a sealant.
 
It was not put on the wheels. It is actually a ceramic coating about 1-2um thick. I can wipe bugs off with no pressure applied. It's hard to wash because water will not stay on it. The consumer grade is available. The Pro Grade is only available for authorized detailers. It's a little pricey, but if your car is less than 12 months old, they do offer a limited lifetime warranty.

Justin - Yes they can be applied over the vinyl. I got confirmation from the CEO before I let my detailer put it on. They bought a roll of the 3M vinyl to test it.
 

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