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Quick Front Brake Pad Swap

OK, I am sure many know this little trick to swap pads on the fronts but I thought I would throw it up for anyone still pulling the calipers for a pad swap. This is also a good way to swap pads even if you will change rotors and pull the caliper anyway since you avoid putting pressure on the lines and do not have to deal with a swinging loose caliper.

Doing this correctly should take less then 5 minutes per side.

Remove the pins that hold the pads and tension clip in place.
CIMG3081.png
Then remove the clip. (YES, I know the clip is on backwards I threw it back on to take the picture)
CIMG3082.png
I simply grab the rotor and pull outward, this will push the pads and in turn the pistons back into the calipers.
CIMG3084.png
This will give you enough space to pull the pads right out.
CIMG3085.png
As part of my track kit I carry a burnt out pad to slide in and then use a screwdriver to push the piston all the way back in. No worries about damage to the old pad. You will need to do this if installing new pads since pulling the rotor out will not compress the pistons all the way.
CIMG3086.png
I have done quick pads swaps many times at the track this way. Since it is so quick I do not throw out a set of pads that may have a run or two left on them because I want to do it at the house before hand. I now carry a set of bedded in pads to all events just in case.
 
Nice. Got any tips for swapping the rears? ;)
 
5 DOT 0 said:
Nice. Got any tips for swapping the rears? ;)
Yep, go to the track with enough pad to make it the full day ;D

They are not so bad once you get use to them but having to do them at the track would not be fun.

BTW, you question on caliper bolts got me thinking and I ordered a new set for the fronts and rears also. I never got a good answer from the dealer or even the race teams on how long they will last but I am going to go by a one year rule for them. I can also keep the old one for emergencies but if a bolt brakes I assume you day (season) would be over.
 
I know everyone and their grandma does it that way, but I like to crack the bleeders when I pull pads. That way it doesn't send gunk all the way back up. Have to use a vacuum on the bleeder or pressure on the MC though, to prevent bubbles. Makes the pistons suck back in easier too. There is a tool that looks like a duck that I want for spreading pads but I can never find one at a reasonable price.

However, if you are headed to the track, you should have bled them already so this would be fine ;D but keep an eye on the brake fluid. Pushing back the pistons to put new pads can still push too much fluid back up into the res, and then you are asking for a serious mess under the hood when you hit the track.



How long do rears last on the track? My fronts are at 5mm and my rear at 10mm according to the dealer, how does the wear ratio go on good pads?


Another trick is the first time you swap rotors, keep one for each axle and toss it in your track box. Even if it only has enough thickness to limp home, it is better than getting a tow if you drive to the track.
 

ArizonaBOSS

Because racecar.
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5 DOT 0 said:
Nice. Got any tips for swapping the rears? ;)

Yes--loosen the front slide pin bolt and completely remove the rear one (both 13mm). This will let the caliper rotate around the bolt left in-place (the front one). Flip the caliper forward, remove and replace one pad at a time (this prevents the shim clips from falling out as you replace the pads). Hit the caliper with your retractor tool and make sure the notches in the piston are facing straight up/down. Flip the caliper back into position, re-insert the rear bolt, tighten both.

5 mins max per side.
 
ArizonaGT said:
5 DOT 0 said:
Nice. Got any tips for swapping the rears? ;)

Yes--loosen the front slide pin bolt and completely remove the rear one (both 13mm). This will let the caliper rotate around the bolt left in-place (the front one). Flip the caliper forward, remove and replace one pad at a time (this prevents the shim clips from falling out as you replace the pads). Hit the caliper with your retractor tool and make sure the notches in the piston are facing straight up/down. Flip the caliper back into position, re-insert the rear bolt, tighten both.

5 mins max per side.
When you rotate the caliper forward do you have room to remove and replace the rotor?
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
Great tech, front and back...

First time I had these Brembos apart, I was a little confused about the pins not having the 'old' cotter pins to lock the pad retainers like other Brembos I've seen/done. Took me a bit to figure out to press them out.
 

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