Rear Wheel Hub

[Nick20GTPP]

That was it, I bought an Innova scanner that reads Ford codes. It found the steering fault, I cleared the code, power steering now works, and no caution lights. Thank you all for your feedback and advice! In summary for anyone with this same issue I did the following:
-Replaced LH and RH rear wheel hubs (LH was bad)
-Replaced LH rear ABS speed sensor
-Cleared the faults with a Ford code reader

 

[Nick20GTPP]

I just finished my first track day since replacing the rear wheel hubs. The driver rear failed again. This time no codes or warning lights. However, I felt the rear end “wiggle” so I jacked up the car and sure enough there is play in the driver rear... I’m running Steeda progressive springs and 3/4” spacers. Could the springs/spacers be putting to much pressure on the hub? Thanks in advance!!

 

[gtorpedo]

Did you use a new axle nut when replacing the rear hub and absolutely positive it was torqued to spec? I put witness marks on my axle nuts so I can visually inspect if there's been any movement. Only thing I can think of...

 

[Nick20GTPP]

Did you use a new axle nut when replacing the rear hub and absolutely positive it was torqued to spec? I put witness marks on my axle nuts so I can visually inspect if there's been any movement. Only thing I can think of...

Thank you for the response! I checked the torque on the axle nut and it’s still torqued correctly.

 

[JAJ]

Thank you for the response! I checked the torque on the axle nut and it’s still torqued correctly.

How did you check the torque?

 

[Nick20GTPP]

How did you check the torque?

I checked the torque on the axle nut to make sure it hadn’t loosened and caused play in the bearing. So technically I checked to make sure it was at least torqued to specs. I didn’t check if it was over torqued.

 

[JAJ]

I checked the torque on the axle nut to make sure it hadn’t loosened and caused play in the bearing. So technically I checked to make sure it was at least torqued to specs. I didn’t check if it was over torqued.

Well, the reason I asked that question is that the only way to verify the torque is by undoing the nut and retorquing it. Is that what you did?

On the one hand, if it feels tight, it probably is, but checking it is tough. The best way to know it's tight is to witness mark it as @gtorpedo said above.

 

[Nick20GTPP]

Well, the reason I asked that question is that the only way to verify the torque is by undoing the nut and retorquing it. Is that what you did?

My concern was if the axle nut loosened and caused play in the bearing. So I set the torque wrench to spec to make sure the nut was still tight. You are 100% correct regarding the only way to check the exact torque. I was just making sure the nut wasn’t loose. My thought process was if I set the torque wrench to the same value I used to torque the nut originally and was not able to tighten (torque wrench immediately clicked) then the nut hadn’t loosened.

 

[gtorpedo]

My concern was if the axle nut loosened and caused play in the bearing. So I set the torque wrench to spec to make sure the nut was still tight. You are 100% correct regarding the only way to check the exact torque. I was just making sure the nut wasn’t loose. My thought process was if I set the torque wrench to the same value I used to torque the nut originally and was not able to tighten (torque wrench immediately clicked) then the nut hadn’t loosened.

The torque spec on the axle nut is 98 lb/ft + 45*
I'm not sure what the effective torque spec is after the 45* turn but likely much higher than your torque wrench will read out (250 lb/ft++). I have a hard time pressing down on a 2ft breaker bar to get to 45* let alone with a torque wrench.

 

[thelostotter]

I've noticed that 45 degrees past 98 lb-ft is pretty close to 250 ft-lb so now I just set my torque wrench to its max (250). Getting 250 ft-lbs on that nut with its awkward location takes all my strength.

 

[Nick20GTPP]

The torque spec on the axle nut is 98 lb/ft + 45*
I'm not sure what the effective torque spec is after the 45* turn but likely much higher than your torque wrench will read out (250 lb/ft++). I have a hard time pressing down on a 2ft breaker bar to get to 45* let alone with a torque wrench.

I use 250 ft/lb, I have a long torque wrench (a lot of leverage) and it is still difficult. That is what I used today to check the torque after finding play in the wheel/bearing. Therefore, I was confident the axle nut being loose didn’t cause the problem. Also helps to have someone hold the socket in place while torquing to 250. Not sure if this meets the 45 degree spec but I can’t get it any tighter

 

[JAJ]

I use 250 ft/lb, I have a long torque wrench (a lot of leverage) and it is still difficult. That is what I used today to check the torque after finding play in the wheel/bearing.

Okay, thank you, that's the answer I was looking for. I suspect the actual torque is more like 400 or 500 ft-lbs, in the same range as Porsche center-lock wheel nuts, but 250 should be enough to be sure it's not loose.

So, what could cause this corner of the car to continually eat hubs? Are you sure you're getting genuine Ford parts? It's truly a mystery.

 

[67GTA]

I suspect the actual torque is more like 400 or 500 ft-lbs, in the same range as Porsche center-lock wheel nuts,

That’s what’s up with that cartoonish torque wrench the P-car guys use - I just thought it was part of the “my X is bigger than your X” image!

 

[Nick20GTPP]

Okay, thank you, that's the answer I was looking for. I suspect the actual torque is more like 400 or 500 ft-lbs, in the same range as Porsche center-lock wheel nuts, but 250 should be enough to be sure it's not loose.

So, what could cause this corner of the car to continually eat hubs? Are you sure you're getting genuine Ford parts? It's truly a mystery.

Agreed, truly a mystery. Thanks for the responses, I’m going to remove the hub and keep researching. I’m using OEM Motorcraft hubs. I may try the Ford Performance hubs with the ARP studs.

 

[JAJ]

Agreed, truly a mystery. Thanks for the responses, I’m going to remove the hub and keep researching. I’m using OEM Motorcraft hubs. I may try the Ford Performance hubs with the ARP studs.

Had a blinding flash of the obvious this morning. I think you have a half-shaft problem. Either it's the wrong one (the two sides are different) or it's got a malfunctioning sliding joint. Breaking your hubs requires a lot of force along the axis of the hub, and a half-shaft that's too long will hammer away at the hub from the inside until it fails.

Or maybe it's something else.

 

[Nick20GTPP]

Had a blinding flash of the obvious this morning. I think you have a half-shaft problem. Either it's the wrong one (the two sides are different) or it's got a malfunctioning sliding joint. Breaking your hubs requires a lot of force along the axis of the hub, and a half-shaft that's too long will hammer away at the hub from the inside until it fails.

Or maybe it's something else.

Great thought and thanks for the help continuing to troubleshoot!
The half-shafts are correct and good, I checked them when I installed a new hub. Everything is working great now with no issues. I’ve put a few miles on the car and my next track day is in January at Barber.
I’m thinking I either made a mistake on the install or I got the .001% part that was defective. I’ve never had an issue with Motorcraft parts and definitely stand by them, however maybe this was just a bad part...
I’ll report back if I have any other issues with the new hub. Thanks again to all for the feedback.

 

[TMSBOSS]

my next track day is in January at Barber.

I signed up for Barber in Jan also. See you there.

 

[Nick20GTPP]

I signed up for Barber in Jan also. See you there.

Awesome! I look forward to meeting you at the track.

 

[bnight]

Hi Nick any update on this ? I have same issue with my rear left changed hub 3 times according to service manual this should be a broken CV Joint on the half shaft but mine looks ok ether way I ordered new half shaft new wheel hub and new hub nut for the dealer to install hope this fix the annoying whine and kick when cruise control is on (according to service manual both caused by broken CV Joint).

 

[Nick20GTPP]

Hi Nick any update on this ? I have same issue with my rear left changed hub 3 times according to service manual this should be a broken CV Joint on the half shaft but mine looks ok ether way I ordered new half shaft new wheel hub and new hub nut for the dealer to install hope this fix the annoying whine and kick when cruise control is on (according to service manual both caused by broken CV Joint).

Good Morning bnight -
After installing the new hub and making sure the rear IRS was aligned properly, I didn't have any more issues. If your issue is only with the cruise control on maybe it is a sensor or something related to cruise control? Did the dealer pick up any codes? Sorry for your trouble, hope the dealer is able to fix with the parts you are replacing.