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Discussion in 'Drivetrain, Exhaust and Electrical' started by VoodooBoss, Mar 22, 2014.
Updating this thread. I just finished my oil cooler install today.
I went with a Setrab 660 instead of a 948. I choose it over the 948 because it was easier to install and even that it has a lesser cooling potential, it has a greater percentage of it surface directly in the upper grille opening vs the 948.
Also it fit perfectly with the Blowfish tow hook for the bottom fixation.
It cost me less than 30$ to fix it into the car and only have to drill 1 hole (and 2 in the Blowfish tow hook)
I used a Glowshift sandwich plate for the oil temp(before cooler) and a Moroso oil cooler plate adapter.
I'm using AN-10 Aeroquip starlit hose and a protection sleeve from Improved racing.
I'm not using a thermostat but will be monitoring oil temp and a one if necessary.
I routed my line above the sway bar and holding them with clamp fixed on the radiator support
I also added the following sensor
Oil pressure : stock location with a T fitting
Water temp : Core heater location
So is there somewhat of a consensus on this? It sounds like removing the stock oil cooler would cause coolant temps to rise a little and has no real effect on oil temperature if I am understanding this correctly which I probably am not.
Still haven't put an oil cooler in the car yet, cant decide which route to go. I have a GT so no boss cooler, and was planning to run the mishimoto plate. Seems like thats the way to go for the GT, but open to suggestion. Can't really decide which setrab to get, though. Any reason you guys dont run the series 1 72 row?
I should note that I have removed my A/C system, and I am putting in a CSF radiator. I have a moroso road race 10qt oilpan.
So I figured I'll update this post rather than start a new one. I removed the stock on and installed an Improved racing 172 Cooler with inline thermostat. Used the Moroso sandwich plate, 10 ft of line, 2 90 degree fittings and 6 straight fittings. Turned out good, my buddy helping has OCD so he tried his best to make it look clean. Only issue I'm seeing is I may need a new grille since the 302s grille may be blocking it too much. I'll get the rest of the pictures from him of the underside, basically routed beside the radiator on the driver's side and mounted the thermostat on the Blowfish tow hook bracket. Just couldn't find the space in the engine bay that we were both comfortable with. Works great so far. Car heats up faster and no leaks.
So I have a new issue/question. My oil temp gauge stopped working at the Glenn so I have no idea what my temps are. Current location is off a T switch with the oil pressure gauge. What is a good location/place to try a get a reading for the oil temp? I have the Moroso sandwich plate. I thought about trying to do something inline, just not sure if that is the best way to go at this point. Also, I know there are other possibilities of issues with the gauge, but I've never gotten good readings from it since the first motor got swapped out. So at this point i'm basically going to try and do a redo on the setup so I can get accurate readings again.
Locating temp and pressure sensors in a sandwich plate is affective. Easy install also.
The OEM oil sender location taps into the main oil galley just prior to feeding the engine main bearing for the crankshaft. This location gives you data pre-main bearing temp/pressure.
The sandwich plate is also a good location as mentioned above, if located on the engine feed side, post external oil cooler matrix. This location gives you post oil cooler oil temps, just prior to being filtered and sent to the main oil galley.
If you keep the current location, check for bits of sealant in the T-Connector from your last engine rebuild.
Good luck and keep us posted.
302 Hi Pro
So basically tapping it? I'm thinking of keeping the pressure gauge where it's at and just moving the oil temp gauge. Mind you I'll be trying to find a pro since this sounds way out of my league.
There are several suppliers who provide sandwich plates already drilled and tapped.
I bought mine off eBay.
Which one did you go with, most of the ones I see I'm not impressed with. Really don't want to buy another since I have the moroso unit tbh.
I bought a generic plate, no brand name a few years back. Sorry I cant help with seller or brand....I searched Ebay and cant find details of purchase.
You can drill and tap. I considered doing this except a second plate was $20.00. Why take the risk??
A Canton plate came with the 302S Kit. I can look up the PN tonight.
Wow, that oil cooler covers a major portion of the radiator....I'd be interested to see how this has affected both oil and water temps in the long run now that you've had this set up for some time...any updates?
Canton sandwich plate I used: PN 22-549 (215013012)
Just to update, while at Thunderhill and also this weekend at INDE Motorsports Ranch we had temperatures above 90*F and now my car is starting to send the ECTs upwards of 240 on a consistent basis, with oil temps 250-270F.
This is causing me to have to back off and/or short-shift during races to keep the car from hitting the 245F limp mode and probably not great for the engine anyways.
I am running the car quite a bit harder than I was when I first installed the 925.
I am going to delete the stock oil-to-water unit and upgrade my existing Setrab 925 to a 948 at some point in the near future.
I'm in the process of upgrading from the OE cooler and Ford Racing 915 to the 172 and Ford Racing aluminum radiator.
I'd like to see the rest of Smileboys pictures of his install or anyone else's.
I'm using -12 so that makes it a little more of a challenge.
Over the crossmember lines up and gives some room to work.
After seeing how much the lower radiator hose was restricted buy the cooler bypass
I wonder how it ran as cool as it did.
After reading through this entire thread, I saw that Misimoto has put togehter an oil cooler kit for our cars. The heat exchanger may not be as big as some of you racers use, but for HPDE use, it seems to fit my needs. Their website lists the kit for $680, which I thought was pretty resasonable considering it includes all the -AN lines, heat exchanger, mounting bracket, and the sandwich adapter.
I did a secondary search and found a couple sources that list this kit for less money, so I figured I'd pass on the word...
American Muscle has is listed for $578
Amazon also had this same kit listed for as little as $450! Thats the one I picked up, and it appears that was the last one they had in stock at that price, and now list it for the same $578 as AM had. I suppose
That's the kit i have on mine. Granted i boxed in the radiator at the same time. It's working perfect for me so far.