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SN95 Budget Rear Suspension

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2
1
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
Lexington SC
Hi, new to this forum. Please let me know if I’m doing anything wrong.

I recently picked up a 1998 Mustang GT, 5 speed, for the 24 Hour of Lemons race series (The 2.2 NA flat four in our Impreza didn’t have enough ‘Merica for our likings)

I got the front suspension (decently) sorted, but the SRA worries me. I have spent a lot of time searching forums, and see a lot of people warning about the crappy 4 link, and the snap oversteer while exiting corners. So far I have seen advice on Forums regarding different solutions, as well as upgrades for better handling, but it often adds up. I’m quite a fan of the “Junkyard Dog” build, but I don’t have much confidence in my fabrication. Can you buy any of the stuff he made off the shelf?

Ultimately I’m looking at a budget of 1200$ for the rear setup, if it has to be slightly over I can budge a bit. I’d like to fix the snap oversteer, and improve handling as well (if possible). Please let me know what you guys with experience recommend. Thanks!!
 
6,405
8,301
Hi, new to this forum. Please let me know if I’m doing anything wrong.

I recently picked up a 1998 Mustang GT, 5 speed, for the 24 Hour of Lemons race series (The 2.2 NA flat four in our Impreza didn’t have enough ‘Merica for our likings)

I got the front suspension (decently) sorted, but the SRA worries me. I have spent a lot of time searching forums, and see a lot of people warning about the crappy 4 link, and the snap oversteer while exiting corners. So far I have seen advice on Forums regarding different solutions, as well as upgrades for better handling, but it often adds up. I’m quite a fan of the “Junkyard Dog” build, but I don’t have much confidence in my fabrication. Can you buy any of the stuff he made off the shelf?

Ultimately I’m looking at a budget of 1200$ for the rear setup, if it has to be slightly over I can budge a bit. I’d like to fix the snap oversteer, and improve handling as well (if possible). Please let me know what you guys with experience recommend. Thanks!!
Any competent fab guy should be able to do the poor man's 3 link without much problem. You can buy the PHB from several sources that are a bolt in deal.
 
If I were in your shoes, I would spend the money on the PHB (but I'm not a fab guy), some good LCAs, and good shocks. You can remove one upper link to do the PM3L. Then be prepared to change the rear spring rate to suit the change in roll center. When I (briefly) ran the PM3L after installing a Fays2 Watts Link, but before I got the coilovers in from MM, the car had a TON of roll in the rear (with Steeda 650/250 lb/in springs).

You know, it might not be unreasonable for a fab-minded individual to make some spring perch adapters. If that would be necessary on these cars...I haven't looked at the factory spring perches in a long time.

Anyways, you could switch from factory style springs and run a coilover in the stock location. This way you wouldn't have to convert entirely to coilovers (with the added cost that entails), but could still take advantage of the versatility of 2"/2.5" coilover springs. Be able to adjust in 25 lb/in increments instead of being locked into the aftermarket spring rates that are out there from Eibach, Steeda, etc, that won't be a good match off the shelf for a non-four link setup.
 
2
1
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
Lexington SC
Thanks for the feedback guys. I’ve decided that PM3L will work best for me. I have some 392 lbs/in springs for the rear, hopefully those will be enough to keep the body roll in check.
 
Offhand, with the PM3L, I think a 392 lb/in spring in the stock location would be ok with something like an 850 lb/in in the stock front location. You can fine-tune with sway bars somewhat from there, but you do want to get close on the spring rate match front to rear. You didn’t say what the front has, other than it being decently well setup, so hard to say much about that.

With a PHB, you can adjust rear roll center of the car by raising and lowering the entire bar. If you build your own, you can do chassis and axle mounts that allow that adjustment.
 

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