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Stripped front caliper hole

drano38

Wayne
1,130
318
In the process of swapping front brakes/pads to get ready for Brainerd at the end of the month, I stripped out the top hole in the front right caliper. Don't think I got it cross threaded, but when I started torquing it to 85 ft/lb, I noticed it wasn't getting tight.
Took it back out, and had spiraled aluminum on about the last 1/2" of the bolt. Looked in caliper, and sure enough, threads gone. :(
So now I get to call Tousley/Auto Nation Monday and hope the caliper doesn't cost too much.

Anybody gotten one from them? How does the core charge work? Hate to ship one back--shipping would kill the low price advantage. I guess I'll call the local dealer too.
Thanks
 
Wayne you are not alone. I've cleaned up the threads in mine a couple of times. But that is now a thing of the past. ;D You can always buy a used set on ebay and then have a spare.

IMG_3363_zps4320319e.jpg
 

steveespo

Lord knows I'm a Voodoo Child
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drano38 said:
In the process of swapping front brakes/pads to get ready for Brainerd at the end of the month, I stripped out the top hole in the front right caliper. Don't think I got it cross threaded, but when I started torquing it to 85 ft/lb, I noticed it wasn't getting tight.
Took it back out, and had spiraled aluminum on about the last 1/2" of the bolt. Looked in caliper, and sure enough, threads gone. :(
So now I get to call Tousley/Auto Nation Monday and hope the caliper doesn't cost too much.

Anybody gotten one from them? How does the core charge work? Hate to ship one back--shipping would kill the low price advantage. I guess I'll call the local dealer too.
Thanks

$50 core, price from Tousely is $218 I think. Cloud 9 just had this happen recently and had to buy a replacement. I will put this out there for all and may get flamed but this is what I do to avoid this.
When changing rotors, remove bolts and clean off all traces of locktite. Run the clean bolt in and out of the caliper, careful to start the threads by hand at least 3 turns, run in and out with rachet to clean caliper threads. Now lightly coat the bolt with Copper based anti-seize and run in and out. Wipe excess and mount caliper as usual torquing to 85 ft/lbs. I have had zero issues with bolts losing torque, when I bleed, change pads or rotors I check the torque. I also do my lug studs, just a light coat and wipe the excess.

Simple preventive maintenance, the steel bolt will get galvanic corrosion and lock to the aluminum, the threads pull when you remove the bolts. Lubriplate Copper prevents this and will protect the aluminum. I think Gary also had his caliper fitted with Heli Coil inserts to have for a back up if needed.

Steve
 

drano38

Wayne
1,130
318
Hope Tousley has one in stock--tried their web page, but didn't see Brembo calipers when selecting Boss 302.
I've got a machine shop friend who can install a Heli Coil, or will know who can and will do a good job (my friend's shop is mainly a one-off tool and die shop, so may not do simple stuff).

Steve, I agree with getting rid of locktite. I'll pick up some new bolts at work Monday (I'm a John Deere parts guy so we have lots of metric and 10.9 hardness flange bolts). We put these things on and off frequently enough to not need locktite in my opinion.

Wanted to get my oil cooler install done today too, but can't since "one day shipping" has turned into 4 days for a couple 45 degree connectors for thermostat/hose routing. As of late, simple projects have become a little too difficult.
 

steveespo

Lord knows I'm a Voodoo Child
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Wayne
Go to fordparts.com and register, use auto nation ford of white bear lake as your shopping dealer. Then search by VIN and shop for brake hardware. There will be catalog thumbnails that when you click have all the related parts call outs, you can see avaiability but I have never waited more than 3 days for anything from Tousley, plus there is $7.95 flat rate fed ex ground shipping. I use it all the time. Just had to replace my left front 6 piston caliper after I snapped a bleed nipple head off at VIR.
Broke off the EZ out trying to remove it and now can't even drill that tool steel. Shame as its a $320 caliper.
Steve
 
Steve's right this is an issue with these calipers. I think it's excess "dry" Loctite mucking up the threads from the OEM bolts, and the galvanization Steve mentioned. I just bought a takeoff set from a friend who upgraded to Stoptechs. We ran a tap through the threads to clean them up and I just ordered a thread cleaner from Jegs along with some anti-seize: http://www.jegs.com/i/ARP/070/912-0008/10002/-1

I did buy a helicoil set but we struggled to drill out the old threads so I'm going to try a machine shop tomorrow. I stripped out another one last year and one of the Ford mechanics stripped another one of mine when replacing the front hubs.

Let me know how much you end up spending for the replacement as I'll hold off on the machine shop until I see what you have to pay.
 

ArizonaBOSS

Because racecar.
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I've been there as well...bought two of em from Tousley (you can find them under the GT parts bin). Never returned the original calipers for the core charge refund, ended up giving them to a buddy to play around with and maybe rehab later.

Rick's "solution" is a pretty good one, albeit very spendy by comparison :)
Copper anti-seize sounds interesting as well.
 
ArizonaBOSS said:
I've been there as well...bought two of em from Tousley (you can find them under the GT parts bin). Never returned the original calipers for the core charge refund, ended up giving them to a buddy to play around with and maybe rehab later.

Rick's "solution" is a pretty good one, albeit very spendy by comparison :)
Copper anti-seize sounds interesting as well.
It's good to know I'm not the only one. I was surprised this thread hadn't popped up sooner so attributed it to my limited mechanical skills. The irony is I started having more issues when I started always using new bolts......thus more accumulation of the heavy loctite.....
 

pufferfish

Supporting Vendor
1,094
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Maryland
Instead of replacing it with another aluminum caliper which will do it again, heli-coil the one you have for around $15 and also avoid bleeding the system.

Every time I strip out an aluminum thread, I heli-coil them for a permenant fix that will last forever.
 
cloud9 said:
Steve's right this is an issue with these calipers. I think it's excess "dry" Loctite mucking up the threads from the OEM bolts, and the galvanization Steve mentioned.
I think this is the problem too. From Ford's perspective they aren't expecting many owners to be removing and reinstalling the calipers more than once every five years so doing it multiple times a year is not calculated into the service life. I stopped using loctite on mine and never had major issues with the threads or the bolts coming loose. A friend of mine had the proper tap so I borrowed it a couple of times to clean up the threads. I've used anti-seize on many of my motorcycle and bicycle parts over the years and this is a good candidate for it too. Using a heli-coil is probably the best option but my experience with them is they are not permanent. ;)
 

drano38

Wayne
1,130
318
The 12mm bolts that hold the front caliper to the hub.
I swap rotors for track, so my calipers come off a few times a year.
 

ArizonaBOSS

Because racecar.
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Arizona, USA
cloud9 said:
It's good to know I'm not the only one. I was surprised this thread hadn't popped up sooner so attributed it to my limited mechanical skills. The irony is I started having more issues when I started always using new bolts......thus more accumulation of the heavy loctite.....

It happens. Mine were just stupidity, crossed threads on one bolt each side. I'm very cautious with them now, but since the car is strictly a track car nowadays, the calipers don't come off very often anymore (as opposed to twice every track weekend).
 

drano38

Wayne
1,130
318
Well, I watched a couple heli coil install videos, and see that they are basically a spiral wire.
Not sure how that will withstand multiple installs/removals--as Rick said.

Found a couple other options:
Timesert, which is a steel bushing, and the kit is $100+
http://www.timesert.com/html/mtrcsert.html

Fastenal solid steel inserts
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/details/0123160?searchMode=productSearch&zipcode=&filterByStore=&filterByVendingMachine=

I'll talk with guys at the shop in the morning, and decide on a timesert or a new caliper.
I've never added more blue locktite, and only changed to new bolts once. But Gary is right, it gets gummed up in there.
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
I'd pass on the helicoil. Was just going to suggest the timesert too.

Swapping to anti-seize sounds like a good idea for more frequent changes. For those sticking with loctite, I think this is a good cautionary case for cleaning the threads well.
 

TMSBOSS

Spending my pension on car parts and track fees.
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Illinois
06mach1 said:
I would not be afraid to use a heli-coil (or some other brands) insert. Have used them for many thread repairs in aluminum and have never had one fail or come out.

+1 Add a bit of Loctite when placing the coil into the new hole if you are concerned about the coil moving.

Always work for me. Buy the kit with the drill bit and you are set.
 

drano38

Wayne
1,130
318
I've got a new caliper on order from Tousely/Auto Nation.
$248, no core charge (that's odd).
Will be on my door step Tuesday. Once I'm up and running, I'll try to fix the damaged one.
Showed not in stock/backorder, but said he can get it somewhere else today (guessing another dealer).

Got new bolts today--John Deer 12mm 1.75 pitch 35mm long 10.9 hardness to get rid of the locktite. They have a bigger hex head for the wrench, but that won't matter--I'll swap out all 4. Part # 19M7790 if anyone wants to buy them at your local dealer.
 

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