Suspension, what next?

Discussion in 'Suspension and Chassis' started by bpracer, Dec 23, 2017.

  1. bpracer

    bpracer Mark

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    I'm wondering what people think is the next weak link on the S550 suspension and GT350 in particular. I already have four point roll bar, HANS, six point harness (...ok I should get a fire extinguisher) so safety stuff is ok. A new DSC controller is down the road, but not right now. I don't want much increase in NVH so no solid bushings, but what incremental suspension improvement next?

    My GT350 TP will will soon have 19x11"/305-30 & SC2s all around for track duty.
    It already has:
    R springs & rear anti-roll bar
    Two point Steeda front brace (which I think eliminated some front end shudder at max cornering)
    Camber plates with track alignment​

    Poly cradle and diff bushings insets/supports are mentioned often, but I'm unsure if the GT350 bushings are as soft as the normal Mustangs. I assume both should be done at the same time or you might overload the ones not upgraded. Are these the next logical step, something else?

    Ideas? Thoughts on Steeda vs Cortex vs ?? for this, or some other item?
     
  2. VoodooBoss

    VoodooBoss Rick Moderator

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    I think your next move is the DSC controller so I'd save up for that. Porsche, Corvette and now Mustang owners rave over the controller so that would be my next move.
     
  3. 8250RPM

    8250RPM TMO Addict

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    I have done a lot to my GT350 Track pack.
    Here is a list of mods that I have done and I’ll tell you which I recommend the most.
    Forgeline GA1R open lugs 11x19
    Pilot sport cup 2 305/30

    Front:
    Vorshlag camber plates
    Eibach sway bar
    Delrin sway bar bushings
    Billet sway bar mounts
    Cortex adjustable sway bar end links
    Cortex lower control arm bearings
    Caliper studs
    Arp wheel studs
    Gloc pads
    Ford performance GT350 springs

    Rear:
    Eibach sway bar
    Delrin sway bar bushings
    Billet sway bar mounts
    Cortex adjustable sway bar end links
    Cortex lower control arm bearings
    Arp wheel studs
    Gloc pads
    Ford performance IRS aluminum cradle bushings
    Ford performance differential aluminum/delrin bushings
    Ford performance toe bearings
    Self made adjustable toe links
    Self made vertical links
    Self modified stock camber links
    Ford performance GT350 springs

    American racing headers and catless x pipe with stock mufflers. I also have ARH mufflers and borla mufflers but currently run stock mufflers.
    Lund 100 octane race gas tune
    MGW shifter
    Ford performance front and rear tow hooks
    Srp pedals
    Watson 4 point roll bar
    Steeda clutch spring.

    With all of this said and done, here’s what I’d recommend to you if you do not want to use solid bushings or bearings.
    By far one of the best mods I have done are in this order.

    1) Alignment.
    2) Lighter wheels and tires.
    3) I can not say enough on the improvement from the Eibach sway bars. If you go with the sway bars, just use the supplied urethane bushings and not delrin like I have.
    4) Cortex, Full tilt boogie or Scott Drake adjustable sway bar end links. These are the only 3 brands that I know of that do not hit. I tried BMR and their links hit the strut.
    5) Since you do not want to use solid IRS cradle bushings I recommend BMR cradle lock out kit part number CB005. No NVH and it will plant the IRS cradle from moving all over.
    6) GT350R springs if you do not want to lower the car or Ford performance M-5300-W if you want to lover the car 3/4” with a slightly stiffer spring.
    7) I know you said no bearings but....
    To eliminate any rear control arm deflection I would recommend cortex, bmr, steeda, full tilt boogie, lower control arm bearings and ford performance toe bearings. VERY minimal if any NVH.
    8) MGW shifter! Love it!!!

    Now here’s what I wouldn’t waste your money on.
    1) vertical links.
    2) adjustable toe links.
    3) adjustable camber links.
    4) No headers. Only if you want to ring every last bit of hp from the voodoo. If you want more sound, delete the resonators and maybe the casts, and or get the ford performance/ borla cat back system.
    I have had absolutely zero problems with my exhaust at all. It’s been flawless. But it’s not necessary.
    5) tune. Skip it. Again unless you are trying to get every last hp from the car it’s not needed. On a 93 octane Lund tune, with ARH headers exhaust stock cai I pulled 511 rwhp from a bone stock pull of 454 rwhp. On headers and tune I gained 57 rwhp.
    Once I switched to Sunoco 260gt 100 octane race gas and a Lund 100 octane tune I went from 511 rwhp to 535 rwhp.
    My point is this, higher octane gas will still provide more rwhp even on a stock tune and nothing needs to be done.
    6) DO NOT WASTE YOUR MONEY ON A AFTERMARKET CAI. Absolutely no gain at all. I dyno tested this on my very own car and picked up only 1 rwhp. Which is a fluke. The stock cai is perfect and no reason to change it unless you like the looks.
    If anything, get a k&n or other filter.
    I myself like the oem throw aways. Less hassle and no maintenance of cleaning them.



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
    Last edited: Dec 25, 2017
  4. bpracer

    bpracer Mark

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    This is definitely something I'm looking at. Probably a cradle lock-out kit much sooner. I'll look into the BMR kit as 8250RPM pointed out.

    With the magneride getting a wider installed base I'm not quite as worried going down some technological dead end with an updated controller purchase.

    Long, long term, the Cortex DDA coilovers would likely be the direction I would go, but who knows the price point. Then you could pick your spring rate and ride height and still use the updated DSC controller for the new setup.
     
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  5. ChevyNick

    ChevyNick TMO Intermediate

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    8250rpm - have you tried the DSC controller yet? I am working through your list of upgrades, just wondering where that would fit in. Thanks.
     
  6. xXANCHORMONXx

    xXANCHORMONXx TMO Intermediate

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    I have, my build list is very close to 8250rpm.

    I have a ton of track time and the DSC controller is really a great tool.
     
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  7. CSL

    CSL TMO Advanced

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    ^^I’ve been pondering the DSC. Can you tell us with a bit more detail about your experience with it and how it has worked to complement your mods? Price is steep and my car works well with solid rear bushings and FP springs and bars. What can I expect from the DSC to enhance the experience?
     
  8. xXANCHORMONXx

    xXANCHORMONXx TMO Intermediate

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    The biggest thing is control.

    I feel like this car with the dampening even in track mode would be too “floaty” especially on the front end. With the controller I was able to raise he rebound so mid corner I’m not getting that float when I hit a bump.
     
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  9. CSL

    CSL TMO Advanced

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    Did you create your own tune?
     
  10. xXANCHORMONXx

    xXANCHORMONXx TMO Intermediate

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    I sure did. It’s not as hard as you would think. Far easier than tuning a car lol
     
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  11. cj350

    cj350 TMO Intermediate

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    I was happy with Steeda's IRS brace. It does the same thing as the BMR lockout kit but without the NVH.

    Still debating sway bars. Varying opinions on the forums. I have a neutral setup running 315 squared tires, R springs/rear sway and R aero but a bit too much body roll and could use some additional lateral grip. Opinions? Was looking at Steeda for the adjustability and lb rating. Running -2.0* front and -1.4* rear camber as well.

    Also running the DSC controller...tweaked tune.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 27, 2018
    TymeSlayer, DocWalt, RES_22 and 2 others like this.

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