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The best all around lower control arms for the Boss

I am looking at lower control arms cause this thing is going to hook up real soon have the upper control adjustable arm and bracket now want the lower so I can completely hook this thing up need rear control arm relocation brackets to. Any of this someone on here has that works great? I wont track the car but maybe a few times so I dont want to go all out drag racing but want it better then the stock start out the boss has. Kinda want the best of both worlds ;D
 

JScheier

Too Hot for the Boss!
I have the Ford Motorsport pieces and they are clunky. Drives me nuts. The bearings are tight, and the spacers fit tight into the bearing tight. The only thing I can figure is that the ID of the bearing is larger than that of the bolt, allowing for clunking. Ive
Torqued it to 130 lbft per instructions, but the clunk remains.
 

Justin

Save the dawn for your dishes!!!
I just installed Blow By racing billet lower control arms and they didnt increase the NVH and it hooks much better now on the street and no more wheel hop. And they look awesome. Install took 25 mins on a set of rhino ramps.

http://www.blowbyracing.com/bbr-0506-001.html
yhst-14752229404082_2222_177354450.jpg
 

Justin

Save the dawn for your dishes!!!
T1000 said:
Justin, do you have the factory upper control arm with these?
Yes I still have the factory upper. I might get an upgraded one but want to see how just the lowers perform. when you launch the car it pulls on the upper and pushes on the lowers. The lowers are typically the cause for wheel hop as they flex under load. On all my previous mustangs the 96 cobra and the 06 mustang lowers was all it took to get rid of the wheel hop.
 
JScheier said:
I have the Ford Motorsport pieces and they are clunky. Drives me nuts. The bearings are tight, and the spacers fit tight into the bearing tight. The only thing I can figure is that the ID of the bearing is larger than that of the bolt, allowing for clunking. Ive
Torqued it to 130 lbft per instructions, but the clunk remains.
I have the Ford Racing LCA's, the ones with the urethane bushings, and no clunking.

I haven't experienced any wheel hop when trying to impersonate John Force. ;)
 

Justin

Save the dawn for your dishes!!!
gremlinsteve said:
how much did those bbr lowers weigh in at?
my chromolly spohns came in like 3 pounds or just under it. cant remember. but they where light.
I dont know exactly maybe [email protected] can chime in on their weight. they are lighter than the factory stamped steel ones that is for sure. These are made of billet alum with black urathane bushings.

I was kind of leerie on the install as the instructions said on ramps remove the control arms. To my suprise nothing shifted when I dropped the bolts out. the emergency brake cable can be taken off without removing the wheels as well. Not sure why I sat on those arms for over 3 months lol.
 
Yes I did decide to go with steeda billet control arms but now need to find a goos control arm relocation bracket that I do not have to weld.
 
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I have a problem with all of the designs that don't address the natural twist the arm sees when the car leans. A spherical bearing is the best option for one end of the arm but an all metal bearing makes noise and wears out quickly. J&M makes a couple options that work exceedingly well in not binding the rear suspension in lean. By using a solid urethane bushing you are adding the resistance of the bushing to rotating movement to the spring rate. This is not controlled by the shock absorbers and is inconstant and adds unnecessary harshness.
 
Two answers first bought the steeda control arms ;D second ford racing, bmr and I am sure others make a bolt on rear contol arm lowering bracket. third these companies have already addressed the twist worrie 908sp they use three piece bushings to address this issue and work great now I have read that the control arms that use the pivoting ends make a ton of noise.
 

Justin

Save the dawn for your dishes!!!
jeepinocala said:
Also went with umi rear control arm lowering bracketse bolt in and will help plant this thing.
just dont run a sticky tire with them

Note: Bolt-in brackets are for street use and light drag racing use only (with street tires). We recommend welding these brackets when engine modifications are done (heads/cam, NOS, turbo, supercharger) or when traction or launch is enhanced (drag radial, slicks, trans brake, etc). Please contact us if you are unsure if welding is required.
 
I used the frpp units (with the poly bushings) and their relo brackets (which I did have welded in)...not a hint of additional noise. also running mine in the lower position currently...just 'cause that's the way the shop installed them. they seem to work great.
 

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