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Weight Reduction That Doesn't Ruin Your life/Safety, Thoughts?

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341
@SMGDHG I would consider taking the K-member off your weight saving list. Lots of reports that the lightweight ones aren't strong enough for track driving and I don't think the good ones (like from Maximum Motorsport) save weight. Certainly there are other good reasons to get one, but not weight saving.
 
296
362
CA
Lightweight starter motor - Ford Racing or other. Typically smaller than stock so it gives you some extra clearance if you go for long tube headers.
Do you have a brand/part number for 05-10 specific mustang? I am not seeing this.

And the K-member I am getting (already ordered months ago, just waiting for it to be built) is lighter but also stiffer than stock. Cortex.

Here is the list (and cost) of weight mods that I could do without ruining drivability, safety or comfort:

Untitled Spreadsheet
PartWeight (lbs.)Cost ($)
Wiper Motor
3​
0​
Wiper Linkage
4​
0​
Wiper Arms
2​
0​
Wiper Blade
0.66​
0​
Rear Seat Hardware
5​
0​
Mufflers
10​
0​
Lithium Battery
25​
650​
Girodisc Rotors
26​
2100​
K-member
20​
0​
Driveshaft
16​
700​
FRPP Tow Bar Front
8.4​
0​
Radiator Support
5​
275​
FRPP Tow Bar Rear
7​
375​
Lexan Windows:
31​
1120​
APEX VS-5RS (compared to flow formed 18x11 EC7)
14.6​
3500​
TOTAL WEIGHT SAVINGS:
177.66​
TOTAL COST:
8720​

$8700 for 178lbs.......owch.

I guess I should have bought an M3.
 

Mad Hatter

Gotta go Faster
5,205
4,190
Santiago, Chile
To be honest, a E92 M3 has weight problem as well, but its blessed with a torqueless short stroke motor... It also costs a fortune to fix and to have any chance against a TMO setup 197 or newer, it needs a supercharger.... With all the drama that that brings.

Had a lot of M3 v8 competitors over the last few years. With out going to a supercharger, they don't stand a chance. Found the older inline 6 cylinder m3 to be more competitive.
 
Last edited:
296
362
CA
To be honest, a E92 M3 has weight problem as well, but its blessed with a torqueless short stroke motor... It also costs a fortune to fix and to have any chance against a TMO setup 197 or newer, it needs a supercharged.... With all the drama that that brings.

Had a lot of M3 v8 competitors over the last few years. With out going to a supercharger, they don't stand a chance. Found the older inline 6 cylinder m3 to be more competitive.
Yup, I was referring to E36/E46 gen.

I've been in quite a few buddies road race prepped E92's. Impressive, but nowhere near worth the extra cost of a 3v S197.

Sadly though, being only at 285whp~, well prepped and well driven E92's usually beat me by 1-2s on track.

Looking at the above data, it seems like it would be better money spent to do engine mods. Heads and cams would likely be in the $6k range, installed. But long term, it would be good to lose the weight.
 

Mad Hatter

Gotta go Faster
5,205
4,190
Santiago, Chile
Thats the road I took. It was cheaper to add a 100rwhp then to strip 200 pounds..... Well not really, :p, but its nice to have the hp. And.. @Fabman did really well before with a junkyard coyote swap in his car.
 

Dave_W

Cones - not just for ice cream
963
1,251
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Connecticut
Do you have a brand/part number for 05-10 specific mustang? I am not seeing this.
"Fits 5.0L Coyote, 4.6L, 5.4L or 5.8L Modular RWD with manual transmission and select automatic transmissions"
"Weighs approximately 6lbs"

These also work in "Ford Modular V8 4.6L, 5.0L Coyote, 5.4L, 6.2L, 6.8L" according to PowerMaster's eCatalog, and are less expensive.
PowerMaster PowerMax 9183 - 8 lbs
PowerMaster PowerMax Plus 9132 - 7 lbs
 
597
535
Cut out extra rear bulk head material , add a cross brace between the shock towers if needed and remove the the inner quarter panel skin behind the B pillars . Thin out/remove the underside of the trunk lid. (I.E lightweight Boss 302R) Just a thought.
 
6,288
8,019
Well, at the advice of several doctors but, mostly because of @flyhalf , I joined Noom with the idea of losing 20 pounds by November 1 (starting in late August) I won't quite make it thanks to several track days, but I've gone from 221 down to 206, and the weight is still tranding down, with a 205.8 the other day. I feel better, my back seems to not "clank" around quite as much, it was a very worthwhile investment of $150. for 3 months, and I plan to re up.

With regards to the vehicular weight savings, IMO anything you gut from the interior you are just going to add back in with the roll cage, the GT4 we run struggles to get below weight (something like 3500.. maybe) even with carbon doors, hood, and gutted interior. That being said you don't HAVE to have an FIA cage in the car, a stock car type cage will work for most organizations, you can keep the stock plastic fuel tanks instead of a fuel cell (SCCA allows this in the touring classes as they are pretty robust) In the kart days, since I was alway fat, I even went so far as to drill out all the bolts (including king pin and spindle bolts) built a hollow steering shaft (actually illegal) and experimented with aluminum axles filled with carbon fiber (in a kart the axle is part of the chassis flex scheme) along with having one made of titanium. I used minimum thickness tubing wherever possible where it didn't effect handling, such as nerf bars, bumpers and steering/brake supports. I used plastic instead of an aluminum fuel tank, minimum body work, a carbon fiber helmet and the lightest suit I could find (Simpson) I even went so far as to TIG instead of MIG welding the frame to save weight on the weld beads.
You just have to think out of the box on this stuff.
Oh.. if you are using a body in white, don't forget acid dipping.. the Camaro guys do (even though they will deny it) and the acid bath gets rid of virtually EVERYTHING that is stuck on the chassis.. glue, insulation and if you leave it in long enough, even the steel.
 

Fabman

Dances with Racecars
6,480
8,065
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
"Fits 5.0L Coyote, 4.6L, 5.4L or 5.8L Modular RWD with manual transmission and select automatic transmissions"
"Weighs approximately 6lbs"

These also work in "Ford Modular V8 4.6L, 5.0L Coyote, 5.4L, 6.2L, 6.8L" according to PowerMaster's eCatalog, and are less expensive.
PowerMaster PowerMax 9183 - 8 lbs
PowerMaster PowerMax Plus 9132 - 7 lbs
I'm using the 3192:
 

Fabman

Dances with Racecars
6,480
8,065
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
Well, at the advice of several doctors but, mostly because of @flyhalf , I joined Noom with the idea of losing 20 pounds by November 1 (starting in late August) I won't quite make it thanks to several track days, but I've gone from 221 down to 206, and the weight is still tranding down, with a 205.8 the other day. I feel better, my back seems to not "clank" around quite as much, it was a very worthwhile investment of $150. for 3 months, and I plan to re up.

With regards to the vehicular weight savings, IMO anything you gut from the interior you are just going to add back in with the roll cage, the GT4 we run struggles to get below weight (something like 3500.. maybe) even with carbon doors, hood, and gutted interior. That being said you don't HAVE to have an FIA cage in the car, a stock car type cage will work for most organizations, you can keep the stock plastic fuel tanks instead of a fuel cell (SCCA allows this in the touring classes as they are pretty robust) In the kart days, since I was alway fat, I even went so far as to drill out all the bolts (including king pin and spindle bolts) built a hollow steering shaft (actually illegal) and experimented with aluminum axles filled with carbon fiber (in a kart the axle is part of the chassis flex scheme) along with having one made of titanium. I used minimum thickness tubing wherever possible where it didn't effect handling, such as nerf bars, bumpers and steering/brake supports. I used plastic instead of an aluminum fuel tank, minimum body work, a carbon fiber helmet and the lightest suit I could find (Simpson) I even went so far as to TIG instead of MIG welding the frame to save weight on the weld beads.
You just have to think out of the box on this stuff.
Oh.. if you are using a body in white, don't forget acid dipping.. the Camaro guys do (even though they will deny it) and the acid bath gets rid of virtually EVERYTHING that is stuck on the chassis.. glue, insulation and if you leave it in long enough, even the steel.
Allisandro is a noom guy?
 
296
362
CA
For some background, I'm young and healthy, 5'10" and 170lbs but most of that weight is muscle that I don't plan on losing 🤠

The car as of right now won't have a full cage anytime soon, but I do have a halo seat, solid seat mount, MM Rollbar and 6pt sabelt harnesses. That's why I don't want to do any of the door related weight reduction mods, I don't want to compromise safety, and I'm simply not ready for a cage yet.
 
6,288
8,019
For some background, I'm young and healthy, 5'10" and 170lbs but most of that weight is muscle that I don't plan on losing 🤠

The car as of right now won't have a full cage anytime soon, but I do have a halo seat, solid seat mount, MM Rollbar and 6pt sabelt harnesses. That's why I don't want to do any of the door related weight reduction mods, I don't want to compromise safety, and I'm simply not ready for a cage yet.
Yes, basically you go from stock air bags and no Hans to 6 point, cage, Hans and no air bags in most organizations, and there is ample evidence for this logic.
 
6,288
8,019
Oh yes I've got a HANS too.

Wanting to do fire suppression next. I will need a truck and trailer before doing a cage and truly "ruining" a one owner car 😢
The Watson bar in project Superbeater is a bolt in, and very substantial, you may want to check that out. I think you are running a harness, if so, a Hans is OK, if you are relying on the stock belts, the Hans is a big no no.
 
49
41
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
California
Weight reduction is one of my favorite topics especially since I started racing in 2 lightweight cars (Integra and S2000). Weight reduction is amazing because it helps out the car in so many aspects: better acceleration, better braking, less wear and tear, better handling, better mpgs etc. However, it is a tough balance between comfort, safety, price and weight. Typically, you are giving up at least one of these items no matter what. Everyone in here is of different budgets, age, comfort wants etc. so not everyone will agree on what is "worth it". weight in different locations will also affect the car differently. 50 pounds of rotational weight will be way better than 50 pounds of weight in the middle of the car. and 50 pounds off the nose of the car will be more noticeable than 50 pounds off the middle.

If you want to lose zero drivability/ comfort in the car you should look at replacing items with lightweight versions before starting to delete stuff. You can lose weight with:
Titanium hardware
carbon/fiberglass panels
tubular k member
suspension arms
2 piece rotors
axles
driveshaft
wheels
exhaust
flywheel
pulleys
battery
etc.
You should be able to drop in the ballpark of 150-200 pounds doing all this depending on brands and other factors at play.

Weight reduction for a street 2 track build that may give up varying levels of comfort and accessories:
bucket seats
rear seat delete/interior panel removal
wipers, fluid and motor arms
lightweight bumpers
removing all or partial sound system
AC
Power steering
removing unnecessary brackets
etc.

All out racecar with little to no concern for comfort, priority is performance/weight loss:
Lexan windows
all interior removal besides essentials
airbags
race electronics
abs delete
cut sheet metal that isn't structural
cut holes and gusset sheet metal
rivet the chassis
smaller fuel cell
tube frame the front/rear end
etc.

This is a very general list and there is literally endless items in all 3 sections I mentioned. You can do loads of items to the car without sacrificing comfort or luxuries if you really dive into it. The track rat phase in the middle will have a wide variety of results for people from parts removed, to parts added, and then parts chosen. On the very extreme no point of return side of things you can go crazy. for example @ theshape5.0 on Instagram got his s550 down to 2720. Justin Pawlaks FD spec s550 with a full cage is right around 3000 pounds without a driver as well.

Before you delete something you just need to think about where the weight is and how much weight you'll save and then ask yourself. Is the weight loss in this specific location worth whatever the cost is to my wallet, luxury and safety.
 
296
362
CA
Weight reduction is one of my favorite topics especially since I started racing in 2 lightweight cars (Integra and S2000). Weight reduction is amazing because it helps out the car in so many aspects: better acceleration, better braking, less wear and tear, better handling, better mpgs etc. However, it is a tough balance between comfort, safety, price and weight. Typically, you are giving up at least one of these items no matter what. Everyone in here is of different budgets, age, comfort wants etc. so not everyone will agree on what is "worth it". weight in different locations will also affect the car differently. 50 pounds of rotational weight will be way better than 50 pounds of weight in the middle of the car. and 50 pounds off the nose of the car will be more noticeable than 50 pounds off the middle.

If you want to lose zero drivability/ comfort in the car you should look at replacing items with lightweight versions before starting to delete stuff. You can lose weight with:
Titanium hardware
carbon/fiberglass panels
tubular k member
suspension arms
2 piece rotors
axles
driveshaft
wheels
exhaust
flywheel
pulleys
battery
etc.
You should be able to drop in the ballpark of 150-200 pounds doing all this depending on brands and other factors at play.

Weight reduction for a street 2 track build that may give up varying levels of comfort and accessories:
bucket seats
rear seat delete/interior panel removal
wipers, fluid and motor arms
lightweight bumpers
removing all or partial sound system
AC
Power steering
removing unnecessary brackets
etc.

All out racecar with little to no concern for comfort, priority is performance/weight loss:
Lexan windows
all interior removal besides essentials
airbags
race electronics
abs delete
cut sheet metal that isn't structural
cut holes and gusset sheet metal
rivet the chassis
smaller fuel cell
tube frame the front/rear end
etc.

This is a very general list and there is literally endless items in all 3 sections I mentioned. You can do loads of items to the car without sacrificing comfort or luxuries if you really dive into it. The track rat phase in the middle will have a wide variety of results for people from parts removed, to parts added, and then parts chosen. On the very extreme no point of return side of things you can go crazy. for example @ theshape5.0 on Instagram got his s550 down to 2720. Justin Pawlaks FD spec s550 with a full cage is right around 3000 pounds without a driver as well.

Before you delete something you just need to think about where the weight is and how much weight you'll save and then ask yourself. Is the weight loss in this specific location worth whatever the cost is to my wallet, luxury and safety.
All great points, I am really interested in doing the items that don't lose drivability or comfort, but the problem I'm now running into is the cost of replacing all the parts with lightweight versions is astronomical. In the range of $8,000.
 

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