Re: What did you do to your boss today?
@302 Hi Pro : Did you have to dimple the headers, shorten exhaust studs, or clearance anything on the car during your install of the Kooks system? I'm getting ready to tackle mine this weekend...
ArizonaBoss:
No, there were no additional modifications required to the Kooks Header Set, dimple, etc. They actually fit very well. However, you will have to remove the OEM studs as they will not work with the new primary tube bends along the bottom row. Kooks does supply 2 sets of very high quality washers & bolts, as seen in the photo they show no signs of rust.
You'll find they supply both course and fine thread bolt sets to accommodate the running production change in the cylinder head threaded holes for the exhaust manifold studs. I thought about using special locking bolt sets, but you'll see that Kooks uses a unique "slot" for the header flange to cylinder head bolts, so I opted to use their hardware, and so far so good as no exhaust leaks in the 3,000 miles driven after the install. I suspect if it was going to leak, it would have done it by now.
Next, you'll find that Kooks also supplies an excellent set of header flange gaskets, as they are a 6 ply design. Some might insist on new OEM gaskets, (they are 3 plus), but the Kooks gaskets crush exceptionally well to seal the exhaust ports.
Kooks also takes the time and effort to smooth bore the primary tube ID welds to the flange. There is no excess weld material on the inside diameter of the primary tubes. The OEM tri-y's have a lot of excess weld material at this location and the Kooks will provide a much smoother exhaust path flow.
I used the Shorties, so you will not have to worry about seized Cat to Collector bolts/nuts. The upper right side bolt is known to be troublesome for those of us who maintain our OEM Catalytic Converters.
You will find having a set of metric 5 sided crows foot sockets very handy for accessing some header flange bolts. Note: They look very similar to pipe fitting wrenches used for fuel line fittings.
K-Member removal is a must, and I found the 2 hammer tap approach to work well for the steering end link ball joints vs the fork tool.
You have had your engine out for prior overhaul, so you know about other items like the delicate engine ground connector on the right side engine mount bracket.
For others, this is a great time for oil pan, steering rack, and engine mount/bracket replacements. I can't think of any other header associated items, you'll find it is a very clean install.
Good luck and I look forward to reading your update posts,
All the Best,
Dave
302 Hi Pro