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Okay, I'll get DSUno then. I thought I could get away with DS1.11 because they have slightly less mu, are supposed to last longer, and I have an Ecoboost so it should be slightly lighter. I have swapped GT PP1 brakes so it is easier just telling... (see full post)
To an extend this was just what I had in the garage when I decided to test Front DSUno's but as seen by the data it worked really great. I would advice you to get DSUno and not DS1.11 as the DSUno has more bite but still won't overtake the ABS... (see full post)
If you can still see it because my printing was burned off due to heat :D But let me know if you still see it or when you get a new set what it says on the back. OEM rear pads are pretty cheap so I might just try like you said, thanks (see full post)
For the clunk/pop check rear wheel hubs mostly driver side but could be passenger as well if you are feeling it in the seat this needs replacing fast. Lockout kit and diff bushings are a must. (see full post)
I use the OEM brake pads mostly to not trigger the Ice Mode and I'm happy with how they perform on my car the Gloc R8s were also lasting a hell of a lot of time and so are the OEM rear brake pads. My DSUno pads got down to 25% after around 120... (see full post)
I misread that, you meant I should run RSL19.5 on the rear together with DS1.11 in the front? I was under the impression that RSL29 had a lower friction and bite than DS1.11 so it would be fine. I just wanted to mention that I was intending to... (see full post)
You were the one that actually inspired me to try Ferodo DS1.11/DSUNO. Before I wanted to get Carbotech XP12 and XP10.The thing I'm unsure about is the OEM pads for the rear, because I did have them on my car while I had the OEM in the front... (see full post)
Aren't they like super expensive though in Europe I seen prices as high as 800€ for front pads only. The DSUno's that I run are like 400€. Otherwise yeah Pagid RSL29 all around or just on the back should work fine. My understanding is the OEM... (see full post)
If you mean that your clutch pedal doesn’t come all the way up when you release it, it sounds like you either have a bad throwout bearing/slave cylinder, or it wasn’t fully bled following your new clutch install. Have you tried bleeding it with... (see full post)
You can't stiffen the front of the car to get rid of that, you'd have to soften it....a lot.If you're internally topping the damper much at Sebring, you'll blow it apart. You're not wrong on the droop travel part, but it's really more of an... (see full post)
Hey everyone, bought a 17' GT PP Nov 2025 62k miles. Mods CAI, axle back, BMR level 2 lock out, and diff bushings. I've noticed 2 things since owning it. First is only after car warms up from a dead stop I start off slow I get a rear clunk/pop...
It was complete lock out then I put a new clutch in And it was better for a month then now it's off and on . Complete lock out if I dont run it for a week . I have a little civic as my daily but I've been running the mustang daily and it's been... (see full post)
Not sure man to be honest but ill say this i noticed my clutch does not come all the way out. Only halfway . Its a new clutch too. Unfortunately an SR performance clutch i got it before I knew SR is junky. Thinking it's a spring? I donr... (see full post)
Personally, I'd never run on track without TPMS. The only numbers I keep on the dash display are tire pressures - there's a computer for everything else. There are two reasons for that. First, tire pressures give you information about grip -... (see full post)
Steve is mostly correct with his analysis. ;) Track banking was not a factor as the Road America incident happened on the second long straight away without any turning loads. Although my car does weigh 3555# with full fuel and driver (good guess... (see full post)