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3Vs...We're Not Dead Yet!

Norm Peterson

Corner Barstool Sitter
Probably just time for the clutch to be replaced based on the mileage. I'd imagine it's still factory. Are these cars still a cable clutch or hydraulic? If cable you could try adjusting the cable or replacing it if it's stretched out.
They're hydraulic. No more replacing that plastic clutch quadrant or a cable where a couple of strands broke and it started to unwind (and get longer).


Norm
 

ChrisM

Mostly harmless.
641
634
Japan
HPDE
3-5 Years
Hydraulic clutch. In my experience, that's just the way it is and there's very little that can be done about it. I added a clutch pedal extension and that helped, but I still don't think it's ideal. I'm running an Exedy clutch, which might have helped the feel incrementally, but doesn't change the engagement point. The MGW won't change the clutch feel but it feels great as a shifter. Haven't done the divorced fluid reservoir, I'd be interested to know if that helps.

If I had to name one thing about my car I don't like, it's the clutch, and I loathe it.
 
Probably just time for the clutch to be replaced based on the mileage. I'd imagine it's still factory. Are these cars still a cable clutch or hydraulic? If cable you could try adjusting the cable or replacing it if it's stretched out.
I have a 97 cobra also, and the feel of the cable clutch is plain old better, IMO. I wish the hydraulic was fully adjustable like a cable clutch is. Oh well.

They're hydraulic. No more replacing that plastic clutch quadrant or a cable where a couple of strands broke and it started to unwind (and get longer).
Norm
Where is your engagement point? Any thoughts on this? Sometimes it won't start because the clutch "switch" apparently is 0.1" off the floor and if it isn't pushed literally to the floor, well...

Hydraulic clutch. In my experience, that's just the way it is and there's very little that can be done about it. I added a clutch pedal extension and that helped, but I still don't think it's ideal. I'm running an Exedy clutch, which might have helped the feel incrementally, but doesn't change the engagement point. The MGW won't change the clutch feel but it feels great as a shifter. Haven't done the divorced fluid reservoir, I'd be interested to know if that helps.

If I had to name one thing about my car I don't like, it's the clutch, and I loathe it.
Ew, that's not encouraging. Where would you say your engagement point is? That close to the floor?
 

ChrisM

Mostly harmless.
641
634
Japan
HPDE
3-5 Years
I have a 97 cobra also, and the feel of the cable clutch is plain old better, IMO. I wish the hydraulic was fully adjustable like a cable clutch is. Oh well.

Where is your engagement point? Any thoughts on this? Sometimes it won't start because the clutch "switch" apparently is 0.1" off the floor and if it isn't pushed literally to the floor, well...

Ew, that's not encouraging. Where would you say your engagement point is? That close to the floor?
On the floor or really dang close. The pedal extension did help just because of the additional leverage. Doesn't change the engagement point but I don't have to put my foot all the way to the floor now and that really helped me. Just takes some training to get used to lifting your foot that much higher to engage the pedal. Like I said, not ideal, but I haven't seen any other options that actually do anything to change it.
 
On the floor or really dang close. The pedal extension did help just because of the additional leverage. Doesn't change the engagement point but I don't have to put my foot all the way to the floor now and that really helped me. Just takes some training to get used to lifting your foot that much higher to engage the pedal. Like I said, not ideal, but I haven't seen any other options that actually do anything to change it.
Wow, interesting. Thanks for the info. Maybe I won't be doing a clutch then...Curious what everyone else's experience/pedal is like.
 

Norm Peterson

Corner Barstool Sitter
Where is your engagement point? Any thoughts on this? Sometimes it won't start because the clutch "switch" apparently is 0.1" off the floor and if it isn't pushed literally to the floor, well...
As far as the clutch's friction point is concerned, on mine it's somewhere in the middle of the pedal travel, neither near the floor nor up near the top. It has a little over 50,000 miles on it. Never paid much attention to it because nothing about it has ever felt 'off'.

The clutch/starter interlock switch is a separate issue, and at least in the 2008's you cannot make it hold a re-adjusted position (I tried this, and the switch's mounting is apparently designed to let the adjustment slip back to the lowest point that you ever push the clutch pedal). Funny thing happened about two weeks into my ownership of this car, though . . . that miserable little switch mysteriously grew a metallic filament that just happened to fall across the contacts . . .


Norm
 
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As far as the clutch's friction point is concerned, on mine it's somewhere in the middle of the pedal travel, neither near the floor nor up near the top. It has a little over 50,000 miles on it. Never paid much attention to it because nothing about it has ever felt 'off'.

The clutch/starter interlock switch is a separate issue, and at least in the 2008's you cannot make it hold a re-adjusted position (I tried this, and the switch's mounting is apparently designed to let the adjustment slip back to the lowest point that you ever push the clutch pedal). Funny thing happened about two weeks into my ownership of this car, though . . . that miserable little switch mysteriously grew a metallic filament that just happened to fall across the contacts . . .
Norm
Yeah I only mentioned the switch as it was a good illustration of how far I have to push the clutch in regarding the engagement point.

I'm curious if the throw out bearing is aged...
 

racer47

Still winning after 30+ years
251
263
SE WI
W2W Racing
20+ Years
The best and only real fix for engagement position is to replace the clutch master cyl with the gt500 version. It is a slightly bigger dia, which moves a little more fluid, which will disengage the clutch higher up in the pedal travel.

The clutch safety switch can easily be bent such that you don't need to be absolutely on the floor for it to close.
 

Norm Peterson

Corner Barstool Sitter
The clutch safety switch can easily be bent such that you don't need to be absolutely on the floor for it to close.
If you mean the little tab on the pedal, I don't think I could have bent it far enough. I was pushing the pedal well into the carpet thickness (not just the mat), and if I even breathed off the pedal the car would stop cranking.

I came into driving before these little switches were a thing, and I had one car where the switch was destroyed by the clutch linkage. No big deal to lose this one.

At least the WRX's clutch position switch was adjustable over a range and basically double-nutted to stay put where I reset it to.


Norm
 

racer47

Still winning after 30+ years
251
263
SE WI
W2W Racing
20+ Years
I honestly don't remember exactly what I did but when I changed the master cyl i bent or shimmed or adjusted the clutch safety switch and to make it engage earlier. It was easy and trivial and probably why i dont remember, i just did it.
 

302 Hi Pro

Boss 302 - Racing Legend to Modern Muscle Car
1,835
299
Northeast
Yeah I only mentioned the switch as it was a good illustration of how far I have to push the clutch in regarding the engagement point.

I'm curious if the throw out bearing is aged...
IIRC you have a 2007? If so the 07 should have a twin hyd line TO brg. Meaning you’ll have a clutch bleeder valve at the top L/Side of the Bell-housing.

Try flushing out the fluid & bleeding it first.

I suspect with the clutch engagement so close to the floor, it’s just not moving enough fluid to the slave T/O brg. Next thing I would look at is the clutch master cylinder.

But, try a flush & bleed first, you’ll be amazed how contaminated the clutch fluid becomes in fairly short order.

Keep us posted.
 
The best and only real fix for engagement position is to replace the clutch master cyl with the gt500 version. It is a slightly bigger dia, which moves a little more fluid, which will disengage the clutch higher up in the pedal travel.
The clutch safety switch can easily be bent such that you don't need to be absolutely on the floor for it to close.
I need to read up on my options for the 3v, seeing as I just got this one and am used to the newer S550 stuff, so I'm a fish out of water. I appreciate the information here, I'll try to figure out what's needed for that swap.

IIRC you have a 2007? If so the 07 should have a twin hyd line TO brg. Meaning you’ll have a clutch bleeder valve at the top L/Side of the Bell-housing.
Try flushing out the fluid & bleeding it first.
I suspect with the clutch engagement so close to the floor, it’s just not moving enough fluid to the slave T/O brg. Next thing I would look at is the clutch master cylinder.
But, try a flush & bleed first, you’ll be amazed how contaminated the clutch fluid becomes in fairly short order.
Keep us posted.
I just picked up this 3v about a month ago, and it's a 2006. I'm assuming based on your description that bleeding it isn't an option other than the normal way via brakes/master?
 
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