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Anthony's Full Build/Mods thread

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antman, when you do the EVAP delete how do you plan on venting the gas tank so that when the engine is running it does not form a vacuum in the gas tank?
I am getting ready to do this myself and am not quite sure how best to do this (general layout). I do know that I will need a check valve in the vent tube, and that it must vent to outside the cabin and trunk, but not sure where to start and end. TIA.
 
antman, when you do the EVAP delete how do you plan on venting the gas tank so that when the engine is running it does not form a vacuum in the gas tank?
I am getting ready to do this myself and am not quite sure how best to do this (general layout). I do know that I will need a check valve in the vent tube, and that it must vent to outside the cabin and trunk, but not sure where to start and end. TIA.
I am not sure yet. I have not looked at it. I will probably run a long hose somewhere up high with just a filter. It should be high enough to where no gas will spill out. Lots of people have done this and maybe they can chime in.

Any input from other forum members out there that have done this?
 

Fabman

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I am not sure yet. I have not looked at it. I will probably run a long hose somewhere up high with just a filter. It should be high enough to where no gas will spill out. Lots of people have done this and maybe they can chime in.

Any input from other forum members out there that have done this?

Yeah, I did. I actually posted this last night but deleted it because I didn't want to thread jack it from you.


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Fabman

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Okay, since you asked:
There is a vent line on the passenger side of the tank that we routed to the left side in the picture there, and put a breather element on the end. There is a black plastic box in line that was factory, and we just relocated it between the filter and the tank. The check valve i believe is in the tank. Not a super good pic, I know.

14591819_10154628345608535_1211989340754224328_n.jpg
 

Fabman

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You would never be accused of thread jacking by me, nor would anyone else. Post away fellas.
Just trying not to be an over poster....I kind of like this place and I don't want to wear my welcome out.
 
Any idea where I want the bolts for caster before I install? They are set to all the way towards the front. I thought I would want the opposite. Could be mixed up though.


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Fabman

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Any idea where I want the bolts for caster before I install? They are set to all the way towards the front. I thought I would want the opposite. Could be mixed up though.


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Caster towards the windshield


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ArizonaBOSS

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I left mine in the stock (forward most) location on the Vorshlag plates. @modernbeat noted that the additional adjustment rearward is there if you want it, but they didn't see any benefit during testing.
 

Fabman

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I see. Thx. Disregard last post.


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It's a matter of taste really, more caster is more stability/less caster less steering effort. Side Benefit to more caster is as you turn the wheels you gain weight on the inside tire and unload the outside tire. This is very good.


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Finally done. Worked 8 hours a day for 3 days installing everything else I have except Watts Link. And don't make fun of me for how much sealant I used on diff cover. A bolt snapped and I wanted to make sure it would not leak. And it did not after driving for 20 miles really hard. At least for street. There is a winding road that I know 2 miles of perfectly and I drove it like 10 times. It has all kinds of turns and bumps and curbs, etc.

I have to say, the 800# front springs and 275 in the back felt amazing. Had Whiteline sway bars at full soft in the back and 1 hole from soft in the front. MCS rears were 7 clicks from soft and front 10 clicks. Car felt super balanced and took bumps and whoops in the road like a champ. Can't wait to get it to the track. Aero will come later. I have run out of time and patience right now. Also put n the 13.8 inch rears rotors and changed bearings and seals while at it. Also installed ARP long studs in the back to match Ford racing hubs in front. All the engine and suspension mods are finally done. Gotta throw my race wheels on and racing pads and rotors and off to the track.IMG_0265.JPGIMG_0273.JPGIMG_0274.JPGIMG_0278.JPGIMG_0286.JPGIMG_0287.JPGIMG_0288.JPGIMG_0293.JPGIMG_0295.JPGIMG_0294.JPG
 
1,249
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In the V6L
Had to buy a truck to tow the car. Now I have to get wheels and tires, Long arm suspension and shocks, coil overs, and a bunch of stuff for the truck. Lol
6f70d2e9b98cbe78fdab87c6d89cc2b8.jpg


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Is there a truck in that picture? I'm not seeing it....

Question: what does a true (Porsche/Dodge/Ford) enthusiast drive to work every day?

Answer: F350 Super Duty PSD with a towing package...
 
Is there a truck in that picture? I'm not seeing it....

Question: what does a true (Porsche/Dodge/Ford) enthusiast drive to work every day?

Answer: F350 Super Duty PSD with a towing package...
It was dry clean only and they put it through the washer and dryer. Oops. I have to be honest though. For any 1/2 ton, Tundra is my truck. I have owned 7 of them. Plus, similarly equipped eco-boost 3.5 was $10K more. For 10K, I can have Fabtech make that truck way nicer than any "on the lot" F150. Trust me, I went to a Ford dealership first.
 

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